Yamaha Warrior Timing

[drman]

1997 Yamaha Warrior-

Which mark (F or T) on the flywheel is used to line up the cam timing?

This is a relative's wheeler and I'm workin on it a bit. It runs really rough when you first start it, but gets a bit better when it is hot. Still doesn't seem to run right though. Also it likes to pop back through the carb, so I suspect the timing is off.

I've looked at the cam chain through the inspection cover and it doesn't look like it has a master link?: If it's off timing then how am I going to adjust it?!

Thanks

[Faded]

Originally posted by drman
... Also it likes to pop back through the carb, so I suspect the timing is off.

I've looked at the cam chain through the inspection cover and it doesn't look like it has a master link?: If it's off timing then how am I going to adjust it?!

Thanks

Could pop because of timing, or the jetting could be lean (i.e. lean pilot/airscrew, float not adjusted properly). Probably best to verify timing, float level, and then adjust jetting if the others check out. Normally there is a cam chain tensioner that takes up slack in the chain. You'll need to figure out how to release the tension on the chain so that you can rotate the cam sprockets to line up with the marks and then properly re-install the chain. If the chain is OE from '97 I'd look at replacing it, they are usually fairly cheap. If you need to know which mark to line it up to, call your Yami dealer's service department tomorrow and ask them if you don't get an answer by then. Good luck.

[drman]

I was thinking it could have been jetting too, but the plug is black and almost fouled when I pull it.

I have adjusted the tension before. Should the chain be tight when I try to move it with my fingers? It has a slight amount of play as it sits. I don't understand why there isn't a master link on the chain...well at least I don't see one.

[Faded]

Originally posted by drman
I was thinking it could have been jetting too, but the plug is black and almost fouled when I pull it.

I have adjusted the tension before. Should the chain be tight when I try to move it with my fingers? It has a slight amount of play as it sits. I don't understand why there isn't a master link on the chain...well at least I don't see one.

Just because the plug is black doesn't mean that one circuit of your carb jetting can't be lean. The chain should be fairly tight to keep it from skipping teeth, but not so tight that it would cause binding.

[drman]

Ok, I thought I tightened the chain the last time I pulled the carb (last Septemeber I think), but evidently not. I retightened it and it seemed to help it slightly. I also turned the fuelscrew out about a turn and a half and it helped too...I believe that it is lean now that I have tried that...Might adjust the needle later on to see if that helps.

[hardlydangerous]

Sounds like your on the right track
The T mark is the mak you want to line up for the cam then the cam mark need to line up with the cam index mark.
Don't over tighten the chain. just snug it up. too much tension will damage the head/cam beyond repair.

The pilot circuit is likely lean or dirty. unless there has been aftermarket parts or modifications to the exhaust there is no need to mess with the rest of the jetting settings.

[doomedpreacher]

I am really suprised that no one answered the question to why he does not see a master link in the timing chain. The reason is the chain is meant to be super strong and a master link would only weaken it. to replace it you loosen the tensioner until the chain will come off of the pullie's and in my opinion if you have to adjust timing replace the chain and the tensioner if you dont change the tensioner you decrease the life of your new chain.