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Old 03-12-2017, 11:49 PM
neodyman's Avatar
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Default Warrior 350!! Programmable CDI!!!

     

Hi all, I know somewhere someone has done it, But first.....I have a 2003 Warrior 350 and Ive had all kinds of $$$ and time put into this old thing, I guess for details
1 rotating assembly is a Hotrods crank going up is a JE 85mm 12.5:1 piston, and I have the head/cylinder deck smoothed up (-0.020) half a mm.
The head had kibble white valves, Springs, I had the ports cleaned up...not much metal removed and the intake matched up with intake boot,
The cam is a Hotcams Stage 2, the carb is the stock Mikuni. It has a DynaTek CDI non-programmable. I'm sure I'm missing something, clutches...ect. that don't matter too much.
I run 97+ octane, and used a wideband O2 gauge to tune it, but on Hard acceleration It detonates, The timing curve seams to aggressive, and advanced for the setup, so Ive tried several different configs using different brands and stock CDI, and offset Keys and I can't get the right Timing profile.....

My solution is that Ok how about using a programmable CDI from say Dynatek, Both warrior and say a YFZ seam to be 12V CDI, and not magneto or AC.... so here I am thinking the only hold up is the pickup coil on the 2 have different resistance . there physical shape and mounting seam to be close...

I've looked and never found anything on net about anyone doing this but...maybe someone knows somebody has done it.... I would like there insight. I have a spare Harness and a yfz pickup coil laying around, I would just need a CDI, I would probably try with a stock yfz cdi first I have 2 laying around.... wouldn't want to waste a $250 CDI lol
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Old 03-13-2017, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by neodyman View Post
Hi all, I know somewhere someone has done it, But first.....I have a 2003 Warrior 350 and Ive had all kinds of $$$ and time put into this old thing, I guess for details
1 rotating assembly is a Hotrods crank going up is a JE 85mm 12.5:1 piston, and I have the head/cylinder deck smoothed up (-0.020) half a mm.
The head had kibble white valves, Springs, I had the ports cleaned up...not much metal removed and the intake matched up with intake boot,
The cam is a Hotcams Stage 2, the carb is the stock Mikuni. It has a DynaTek CDI non-programmable. I'm sure I'm missing something, clutches...ect. that don't matter too much.
I run 97+ octane, and used a wideband O2 gauge to tune it, but on Hard acceleration It detonates, The timing curve seams to aggressive, and advanced for the setup, so Ive tried several different configs using different brands and stock CDI, and offset Keys and I can't get the right Timing profile.....

My solution is that Ok how about using a programmable CDI from say Dynatek, Both warrior and say a YFZ seam to be 12V CDI, and not magneto or AC.... so here I am thinking the only hold up is the pickup coil on the 2 have different resistance . there physical shape and mounting seam to be close...

I've looked and never found anything on net about anyone doing this but...maybe someone knows somebody has done it.... I would like there insight. I have a spare Harness and a yfz pickup coil laying around, I would just need a CDI, I would probably try with a stock yfz cdi first I have 2 laying around.... wouldn't want to waste a $250 CDI lol
Man that's going to be a spendy project.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:57 AM
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I already have a YFZ pickup coil, CDI harness off a parts bike. And a extra harness for the warrior, giving I don't ruin the pickup coil or the CDI, it should be fairly cheap for me, in the end after testing with a stock YFZ Cdi, to ensure functionability I'll buy a programmable CDI
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neodyman View Post
I already have a YFZ pickup coil, CDI harness off a parts bike. And a extra harness for the warrior, giving I don't ruin the pickup coil or the CDI, it should be fairly cheap for me, in the end after testing with a stock YFZ Cdi, to ensure functionability I'll buy a programmable CDI
I meant the whole Warrior 350 upgrade project.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:11 PM
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Okay, Lastnite I got all TORS/TPS bypassed and changed the pickup coil...both ignition stators have same resistance, the warrior ran!!!! so I think im going to adapt a TPS to the stock carb, should be fairly easy, Im working on building the harness now, Ill try to upload pics as I do this... but Im thinking this was way easier than i thought...but since i have junk laying around, it has been cheap lol... if you was to do it from scratch you would be in for a pickup coil= $25 CDI stock =$50....or a programmable =$230 Dyna Tek DFS7-12P ebay. and TPS i got one for $10 and going to retrofit it to the stock carb.

for the guys who are DieHard warrior fans that are limited to tuning would appreciate this I hope.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:33 PM
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I have got the YFZ harness apart and all junk cut out, I have the TORS bypassed, and have the TPS unhooked "should leave it on idle timing curve" for now, I have pickup coil out of donor YFZ motor, I just need to do some soldering and re-loom the harness.

I'm leaving the stock warrior Harness on the bike for charging and lights Ect. I'm not at all even cutting into my warrior harness, exept changing the pickup coil, which I have 2 CDI's so I might just try the warrior pickup coil. The YFZ and Warrior are both 12Volt CDI so all that is needed to make it run is the battery power to CDI and the pickup coil sensing a metallic object.

the YFZ pickup coil has a higher 248~372 Ohms and the Warrior is 171~209 Ohms, since I have 2 yfz CDI's I'm almost thinking about trying the warrior pickup coil. and if it fry's the CDI, I have another. lol

Does anyone know If a lower resistance pickup coil will hurt the CDI? I assume It could, I tested the YFZ pickup coil and its at 290 Ohms, tomorrow I'm going to see how many Ohms the warrior is but if its over 200 I may try it.

I have tested the CDI and it puts out spark with 12Volts by simulating crank turning by moving a metallic object by the pickup coil!



For Pinout usage out of the CDI is as follows

*1) Red/Black wire = Keyed 12V power

*2) Red wire
White wire = Pickup Coil

*3) Orange wire = Coil
Black wire, ground

4) White/Black wire = Ignition Sator

5)light Blue wire = Nuetral switch

*6)Black/Blue wire =TORS "Closed circuit to run"
Yellow/Black wire

7) Blue wire
yellow wire = TPS "left open circuit"
blue/Black wire

*8) Black wire = Ground

all marked * indicates needed lol,

Last edited by neodyman; 03-14-2017 at 09:43 PM.
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