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Old 10-10-2004, 02:12 PM
MotoXkid465's Avatar
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Default trans oil in blaster


Can u please tell me how much trans oil 2 put in a blaster. I lost my manual. and i just drained it.

P.S. i was ridin my blaster after i jyust put in a new top end and i stopped and shut it off then bout ten minutes later i tried 2 kick it and it wouldnt kick over. the kick starter wouldnt go down. so i thought that the oil injector was puttin 2 much in the top end(cuz it was leakin oil everywhere) and not enuff in the bottom end, so i thought the bottom end seized. but when i tried 2 kick it today it kick over. i havent tried 2 start it yet. and now im changin the trans oil. im going 2 order the oil injector shut off kit incase that is what it was. Can ne1 tell me what is wrong with it?
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Old 10-10-2004, 02:43 PM
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Default Re: trans oil in blaster

The Blaster takes .69 US qts
10W-30 (Yamalube 4) or SAE 10W-30 type SE

Needs to have no friction modifiers, (not an energy saving oil) and you can tell this by looking at the back of the oil container.
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Old 10-12-2004, 12:19 PM
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Default Re: trans oil in blaster

I prefer to use a gear oil
Amsoil 75W-90 gear oil works awesome.

As for the engine being locked up, it all depends on how you broke it in and how long you let it warm up before you rode off.
best thing to do at this point it pop the top end off and check the piston and cylinder for damage. If it's fine you know your problem is in the crank or trans.
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:07 PM
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Default Re: trans oil in blaster

yep, you cant just get on and go after a rebuild. you want to let it warm up real good, ride around in 1st - 3rd gear for a little while. then once you do that a few times, just go through tthe gears good and easy. after you do that it should be good to go. POINT: after the first ride, shut it off and let it cool. do this after each ride accually. this is so the cylindar has the ability to break in right. as for it not kicking over or starting, that will not be affected by the oil injection system. but the block off would be a good investment.

or the gear oil, i used to use amsoil synthetic blend 75w-90 like hardly said. seems to work great! i changed it half as much as i used to when i used yamalube.
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Old 10-14-2004, 01:41 PM
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Default Re: trans oil in blaster

ALWAY make sure that engine is hot before you ride off.

When breaking in a new top end you're seating the rings
Read this and it explains why you need to run it hard to properly seat the rings.

Itís a great idea to use regular oil during break in and then switching to synthetic. It's also not the best idea to add more oil to the mix as this leans out the fuel air mixture. However small changes won't hurt. I always mix the fuel at the same ratio you will always run.
This is for 4 strokes so I'm not quite that aggressive on two strokes because they donít have such good of oiling abilities.
BUT you can still break in an engine hard but NOT BEAT ON IT.

I do one maybe 2 heat cycles at the most. This is to check for any leaks and to bring it up to operating temps so every thing can be cooled down, re-torque and the compression checked.
If I find a leak or problem I will re-do the heat cycle.
I do not let it idle during the heat cycle; I constantly lightly blip the throttle to vary the engine rpms. If you have new crank bearings you don't want to be revving the engine too high.

After that I ride for aprox 5min. Start the bike and let warm up by lightly blipping the throttle every couple seconds to vary the RPM. Once the engine is uncomfortably HOT to the touch you may put it in gear and ride off. Ride it by using big handfuls of throttle going through the gears, But I avoid going WOT or riding at steady speeds.
Then let it cool completely and check the compression.
Next ride is 10 minutes again warm it up like before. Using big handfuls of throttle going through the gears, But I avoid going WOT for more then a second or two bursts at a time or riding at steady speeds
Then let it cool completely and check the compression
Next ride is the same as the last.
After 20 min of riding the top end should be properly run in and the rings seated.
If you want to play it safe ride like this until the first tank of fuel is complete
Then you can do some WOT plug checks if you need to.

Think about this... When n racers need to rebuild an engine during or just before a race or even the night before a raceÖ When do they have the time to run tanks of fuel though it?
They don't. The break in can be done during the practice laps, in or even riding around the pits. It does not take near as long as most people would have you believe if it's done properly.

When engine builders or dealerships tell you to run in your engine real easy they are telling you that's to cover their own butts.
The Yamaha shop I worked at ran in every bike /ATV on a dyno or jetting roller and they were run in hard. And people would come miles out of the way to buy bikes or have us fix them because there was a noticeable power difference and they knew they were run in properly. They could take um right off the show room floor and ride um like they stole um.

I've yet to ever have a problem running in an engine with my methods and I have many customers that have run in their engines the same way and were very happy with the results.

As for the Amsoil gear oil. Itís 100% pure POA based synthetic so water can't mix. And because it's pure group IV oil it's not going to break down. You can if you want drain it, filter it though a coffee filter, this will remove all the dirt and water, then re-use the oil over and over. Once a year is enough using the Amsoil 75W90. You can use friction modifiers. You canít use ANTI-FRICTION modifiers though.
Friction modifiers are used for some auto Trans applications, viscous coupling and clutch type limited slip differentials to help hook up and reduce clutch slipping. This will help your clutch hook up better.
If you have a 4X4 quad with limited slip differential dump in 75w-90 and that front end will work a lot better and put more power to both wheels.

Last edited by hardlydangerous; 10-14-2004 at 01:57 PM.
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