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Blaster bogging

This is a discussion on Blaster bogging within the ATV/UTV - Yamaha forum, part of the ATV/UTV Forums category; Well my friend and i were out riding today, and i took his quad went up a hill, rolled back ...

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  #1  
Old 12-12-2004, 07:34 PM
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Question Blaster bogging

Well my friend and i were out riding today, and i took his quad went up a hill, rolled back down, and then when i slowed down i went to take off and second and pack the hill down again, but when i got in high rpm's it started bogging, so i drove around in a few circles and it just bogged real bad, and now it just bogs when you get in high rpm's. It was also backfiring a little in high rpm's. Any advice on what is wrong?
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Old 12-12-2004, 09:43 PM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

has it ever done this before? or was it when it rolled down hill? if it started when it rolled down hill, the rings could have slipped off alignment. OR you could have done something inside the motor its self(head or crank case area) i am guessing. the jetting could be off also.
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Old 12-12-2004, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

Might want to check the main jet and see if it's got some blockage in it.
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Old 12-13-2004, 01:53 AM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

Tear that carb apart and clean it out.
Use compressed air to blow out all of the passageways and orifices.
As was mentioned, check to make sure the main jet isn't clogged.
Also do you have any gas pouring out the overflow tube?

What does the plug look like?
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:29 AM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

It seemed to bog a TINY bit all day, it was quite cold out. He did take the carb apart and clean it, havent gotten a chance to try it yet though. The plugs look like they were running a little on the rich side.
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:32 AM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

#1 always check the compression first depending on the year 88-2002- you want 115psi or higher.
2003-2005 110psi or higher.

Clean the air filter

Also check around the base, head, reed gaskets for any signs of leaking, as well as the carb intake boots.

Clean and inspect all electrical connections.

Check the the fuel cap vent is working

Lube the throttle cables and check/adjust the free play. (this will eliminate problems with the TORS killing the ignition)

While your at it re-bleed the injection system. (takes 2 minutes and saves $200)

Clean the carb and re-set the float level. (make sure you hook the oil line back up before starting it

it is possible that it needs to be re-jetted for the colder temps
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Old 12-14-2004, 07:23 PM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

i cant test compression, dont have the tester. the fuel injection is removed, and it could be in need of rejetting, but im gonna clean the carb out with a compressor tomorrow.
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Old 12-15-2004, 12:32 AM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

Quote:
Originally posted by kevinfries
the fuel injection is removed, and it could be in need of rejetting
I think you mean OIL injection correct?
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Old 12-15-2004, 08:07 AM
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Default Re: Blaster bogging

Anytime you remove the oil injection you should re-jet anyway.
The reason is now you are flowing a mixture of oil and fuel through the same jets that use to flow fuel only. Less fuel per volume = lean jetting.
Now to make matters worse the winter air temps are much cooler and will make it even worse.

What kind of fuel/oil mixture are you running?
I would run Amsoil Dominator at 50:1 or Amsoil injector HP at 40:1

Go buy a compression tester. $20 at any automotive store. A cheap one may not be real accurate but it will still give you a good idea if the top end is in OK shape.
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