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  #31  
Old 08-13-2015, 03:03 PM
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We used to have one around that year. The stator plate had slots in it and you could rotate it to adjust timing. Ours ran bad for no excuse and I found that it had turned slightly. I played with it until it ran better. Doubt that is your issue but it might help.
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  #32  
Old 03-17-2017, 10:05 AM
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Bringing this back from the dead. Spring is almost here and I'd really like to have this bike running for my kiddo to ride this year. Still need to follow up on PawPaw's crank seal suggestion and noonersracing timing suggestion. I may see if I can get the blessing from the financial manager (aka wife) to order a new piston/ring kit and new crank seals.
What I have done up to this point, to recap:
Carb cleaned a bazillion and a half times
new reeds
new top end gaskets
new air filter
new spark plug
new tank vent
oil pump and cable adjusted
oil pump bypassed and bike run on premix (no change)
bike run with and without air filter (no change)
New muffler installed with spark arrestor, spark arrestor cleaned
Float height checked and set to spec
Spark checked, nice hot spark
Ran welding tip cleaner through all jets and accessible orifices in carb
Verified carb vents are not blocked
Yelled profanities at the bike
Scratched my head until it hurt
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  #33  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:41 PM
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Damn man! Sucks you have not got this one going yet. noonersracing may be on to something with the timing, however when I had a 250 with timing out it was always hard to start and bogged at open throttle, not intermittent as you describe.

Out of interest does it run well after you clean the carb then crap out? Like is it becoming dirty from a unknown source? like crud/rust in the fuel tank? Or is it completely random?

Have you tried taking the oiler out of the equation temporarily and running premix just to rule it out?

Will
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willkells View Post
Damn man! Sucks you have not got this one going yet. noonersracing may be on to something with the timing, however when I had a 250 with timing out it was always hard to start and bogged at open throttle, not intermittent as you describe.

Out of interest does it run well after you clean the carb then crap out? Like is it becoming dirty from a unknown source? like crud/rust in the fuel tank? Or is it completely random?

Have you tried taking the oiler out of the equation temporarily and running premix just to rule it out?

Will
It's been a while since I played with it, from memory usually what happens is if I change/clean/adjust something, the bike starts up and will idle perfectly. You can usually even crack the throttle a few times while it's in neutral and get it to rev up like it should. Kick it into gear and try to ride it... "blub blub blub cough choke sputter."

Tank is plastic so no rust in the equation.
Darb and petcock have been cleaned many many times
Fuel has been changed.
Oil pump has been bypassed and bike run on premix.
Bike has been run with and without an air filter installed (ran decent with no air filter installed).
Airbox is not plugged up.
Exhaust is not plugged up.
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  #35  
Old 03-21-2017, 10:23 PM
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My 03 rm250 is really running about the same way as you describe. I just changed the crank seal. I did not put the bike back together because im waiting on a kickstarter seal and a clutch cover gasket. But the seal was super easy to change and on my bike and i think most bikes dont require you to get into the bottom end just go under the clutch cover. Took me like 2 hrs to do but over an hr of it was spent trying to get my kickstarter off and had to go up to autozone to rent a jaw puller. The seal for my bike was 20 bucks. I would try this before you rebuild the top end. I have talked to a couple mechianics about my bike and they think this is what the problem is.

Good luck. If it does not run buy a kx60 super cheap and super fun.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcgordon711 View Post
My 03 rm250 is really running about the same way as you describe. I just changed the crank seal. I did not put the bike back together because im waiting on a kickstarter seal and a clutch cover gasket. But the seal was super easy to change and on my bike and i think most bikes dont require you to get into the bottom end just go under the clutch cover. Took me like 2 hrs to do but over an hr of it was spent trying to get my kickstarter off and had to go up to autozone to rent a jaw puller. The seal for my bike was 20 bucks. I would try this before you rebuild the top end. I have talked to a couple mechianics about my bike and they think this is what the problem is.

Good luck. If it does not run buy a kx60 super cheap and super fun.
Finding a decent KX60 cheap is not such an easy task in my neck of the woods, I've been looking.
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  #37  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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Sounds similar to the '01 CR250 I sold a few days back. In my case, I suspected the needle valve was not sealing right or the seat was allowing gas to flow around it somehow. It would idle and run ok when started, but after a while would seem to flood out. Intermittently shutting off the petcock seemed to alleviate the situation. Hence my hypothesis. I also have a VTX 1300 that sat for a while and I went through the carb 5 times or so before running a wire through the jets. Sure enough, the idle jet had some residual crud in there despite the carb cleaner making it through.
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  #38  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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I seem to see them around me for 5-600 bucks for something that looks half way decent. I don't even know what is a good deal on those. But they are a sweet bike. It was my first bike and I loved it.
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  #39  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:45 PM
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Sounds more likely to be that crank seal with everything elste you have tried. Does it blow a heap of smoke when it starts misbehaving?
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  #40  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willkells View Post
Sounds more likely to be that crank seal with everything elste you have tried. Does it blow a heap of smoke when it starts misbehaving?
Yes, smokes like a freight train.
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