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  #21  
Old 08-12-2015, 05:10 PM
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No, unfortunately 78SuzyQ seems to think I dropped an assembled carb in a bucket of solvent and called that good which isn't the case at all. I've had the entire carb apart probably 20 freaking times now and all jets and passages are 100% clear. I've watched carb cleaner go through each one so poking a wire through seems moot at this point.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2015, 05:49 PM
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Ok.
Just trying to help.
Must be supernatural forces.
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2015, 05:51 PM
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Actually what I use on jets is a thing called a welders tip cleaner. It is a wire like device with many different sizes that have a very mild rough edge on it. It helps break down the built up fuel from the inside of the jets. Remember that our current pump "E" fuels leave a very hard dried clear surface deposit when it dries. It will change the orfice sizes of jets that will not come off with and carb cleaner or soak.

Paw Paw
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2015, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tharrell View Post
Ok.
Just trying to help.
Must be supernatural forces.
The help is definitely appreciated! I just can't see any sense in running a wire through the carb when the carb cleaner goes through the passages with no indication of a blockage anywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PawPaw View Post
Actually what I use on jets is a thing called a welders tip cleaner. It is a wire like device with many different sizes that have a very mild rough edge on it. It helps break down the built up fuel from the inside of the jets. Remember that our current pump "E" fuels leave a very hard dried clear surface deposit when it dries. It will change the orfice sizes of jets that will not come off with and carb cleaner or soak.

Paw Paw
Wouldn't that mainly be an issue with the pilot jet? All the orifices in that jet are definitely clear. I suppose at this point I have nothing to lose by trying it...
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  #25  
Old 08-12-2015, 06:53 PM
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Being a guitar player I like to use the excess string I cut off while putting on a new set. They work great also and go down to .009" .011" .016" .024" etc.
looked at my last carb clean with a mag glass and saw plenty of crust left behind by the b-12 spray. Strings scraped it out pretty well. Seriously though "completely dies" sounds like more than a jet down a micron.

only 20 times? Your halfway there lol!
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  #26  
Old 08-12-2015, 09:43 PM
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BURN IT.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2015, 02:22 AM
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Pulling your hair out, been there.
Set it aside and it will come to you, been there too.
Thinking about what an engine needs to run after setting it aside will get your mind working in background.
Work on one of your other bikes or something.
I used to do this by accident after getting to the end of my rope and just giving up.
My mind was working even after I had become mentally exhausted.
Some time later I would have an AHA moment.
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2015, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tharrell View Post
Pulling your hair out, been there.
Set it aside and it will come to you, been there too.
Thinking about what an engine needs to run after setting it aside will get your mind working in background.
Work on one of your other bikes or something.
I used to do this by accident after getting to the end of my rope and just giving up.
My mind was working even after I had become mentally exhausted.
Some time later I would have an AHA moment.
Oh trust me I've been trying to mull it over in my head and see if I have that AHA moment but nothing so far. I figured the oil pump adjustment would seal the deal but no such luck!
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2015, 11:31 AM
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I looked up the engine schematic.
That's a funky case reed engine with the air cleaner attached to the side of the engine, right?
Partzilla only had early 80's and then started back up with the 95 model.
Btw-something else that I have seen is a crack in a carb that goofed up the engine characteristics.
Most of these weird things happen to vintage bikes

The only Suzuki I've ever owned was an 88 LT80 bought for the wife.
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  #30  
Old 08-13-2015, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tharrell View Post
I looked up the engine schematic.
That's a funky case reed engine with the air cleaner attached to the side of the engine, right?
Partzilla only had early 80's and then started back up with the 95 model.
Btw-something else that I have seen is a crack in a carb that goofed up the engine characteristics.
Most of these weird things happen to vintage bikes

The only Suzuki I've ever owned was an 88 LT80 bought for the wife.
It is a case reed engine but the air cleaner is not engine mounted, it's mounted in an airbox under the seat in the normal configuration. I think only the earliest bikes had the engine mounted air cleaner.

I haven't seen any cracks in the carb in all the times I've worked on it but I suppose anything is possible!
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  #31  
Old 08-13-2015, 03:03 PM
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We used to have one around that year. The stator plate had slots in it and you could rotate it to adjust timing. Ours ran bad for no excuse and I found that it had turned slightly. I played with it until it ran better. Doubt that is your issue but it might help.
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  #32  
Old 03-17-2017, 10:05 AM
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Bringing this back from the dead. Spring is almost here and I'd really like to have this bike running for my kiddo to ride this year. Still need to follow up on PawPaw's crank seal suggestion and noonersracing timing suggestion. I may see if I can get the blessing from the financial manager (aka wife) to order a new piston/ring kit and new crank seals.
What I have done up to this point, to recap:
Carb cleaned a bazillion and a half times
new reeds
new top end gaskets
new air filter
new spark plug
new tank vent
oil pump and cable adjusted
oil pump bypassed and bike run on premix (no change)
bike run with and without air filter (no change)
New muffler installed with spark arrestor, spark arrestor cleaned
Float height checked and set to spec
Spark checked, nice hot spark
Ran welding tip cleaner through all jets and accessible orifices in carb
Verified carb vents are not blocked
Yelled profanities at the bike
Scratched my head until it hurt
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  #33  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:41 PM
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Damn man! Sucks you have not got this one going yet. noonersracing may be on to something with the timing, however when I had a 250 with timing out it was always hard to start and bogged at open throttle, not intermittent as you describe.

Out of interest does it run well after you clean the carb then crap out? Like is it becoming dirty from a unknown source? like crud/rust in the fuel tank? Or is it completely random?

Have you tried taking the oiler out of the equation temporarily and running premix just to rule it out?

Will
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willkells View Post
Damn man! Sucks you have not got this one going yet. noonersracing may be on to something with the timing, however when I had a 250 with timing out it was always hard to start and bogged at open throttle, not intermittent as you describe.

Out of interest does it run well after you clean the carb then crap out? Like is it becoming dirty from a unknown source? like crud/rust in the fuel tank? Or is it completely random?

Have you tried taking the oiler out of the equation temporarily and running premix just to rule it out?

Will
It's been a while since I played with it, from memory usually what happens is if I change/clean/adjust something, the bike starts up and will idle perfectly. You can usually even crack the throttle a few times while it's in neutral and get it to rev up like it should. Kick it into gear and try to ride it... "blub blub blub cough choke sputter."

Tank is plastic so no rust in the equation.
Darb and petcock have been cleaned many many times
Fuel has been changed.
Oil pump has been bypassed and bike run on premix.
Bike has been run with and without an air filter installed (ran decent with no air filter installed).
Airbox is not plugged up.
Exhaust is not plugged up.
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  #35  
Old 03-21-2017, 10:23 PM
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My 03 rm250 is really running about the same way as you describe. I just changed the crank seal. I did not put the bike back together because im waiting on a kickstarter seal and a clutch cover gasket. But the seal was super easy to change and on my bike and i think most bikes dont require you to get into the bottom end just go under the clutch cover. Took me like 2 hrs to do but over an hr of it was spent trying to get my kickstarter off and had to go up to autozone to rent a jaw puller. The seal for my bike was 20 bucks. I would try this before you rebuild the top end. I have talked to a couple mechianics about my bike and they think this is what the problem is.

Good luck. If it does not run buy a kx60 super cheap and super fun.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcgordon711 View Post
My 03 rm250 is really running about the same way as you describe. I just changed the crank seal. I did not put the bike back together because im waiting on a kickstarter seal and a clutch cover gasket. But the seal was super easy to change and on my bike and i think most bikes dont require you to get into the bottom end just go under the clutch cover. Took me like 2 hrs to do but over an hr of it was spent trying to get my kickstarter off and had to go up to autozone to rent a jaw puller. The seal for my bike was 20 bucks. I would try this before you rebuild the top end. I have talked to a couple mechianics about my bike and they think this is what the problem is.

Good luck. If it does not run buy a kx60 super cheap and super fun.
Finding a decent KX60 cheap is not such an easy task in my neck of the woods, I've been looking.
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  #37  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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Sounds similar to the '01 CR250 I sold a few days back. In my case, I suspected the needle valve was not sealing right or the seat was allowing gas to flow around it somehow. It would idle and run ok when started, but after a while would seem to flood out. Intermittently shutting off the petcock seemed to alleviate the situation. Hence my hypothesis. I also have a VTX 1300 that sat for a while and I went through the carb 5 times or so before running a wire through the jets. Sure enough, the idle jet had some residual crud in there despite the carb cleaner making it through.
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  #38  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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I seem to see them around me for 5-600 bucks for something that looks half way decent. I don't even know what is a good deal on those. But they are a sweet bike. It was my first bike and I loved it.
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  #39  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:45 PM
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Sounds more likely to be that crank seal with everything elste you have tried. Does it blow a heap of smoke when it starts misbehaving?
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  #40  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willkells View Post
Sounds more likely to be that crank seal with everything elste you have tried. Does it blow a heap of smoke when it starts misbehaving?
Yes, smokes like a freight train.
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