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  #1  
Old 05-05-2012, 07:57 AM
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Default Stud Bolt Torque

Thanks for taking the time to read my question.

I had my top end honed out and now I need to put the stud bolts back in. The manual I have does not tell me what the torque requirement is for these.

I'm wondering if anyone may know this.

The stud bolt is #6 in the attachment.

I have a 96 RM 125

The other reason I'd like to know is I'm going to buy a torque wrench, and I'd like to figure out the range I need to cover.

Thanks,
Brad
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:04 AM
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There is no need to torque the studs. Just put a drop of blue loctite on them and run them in all the way. Before doing this measure to make sure you will be leaving enough of the stud exposed for the nut to attach. I personally like to make all the studs stick out an equal amount. You will however need to torque the nuts in sequence to properly attach the head. Do not use loctite to attach the nuts. As far as torque wrenches go, a 10-75 ft/lb wrench and a 20-200 inch/lbs wrench should cover everything on your motorcycle.

Last edited by 351mustanger; 05-05-2012 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:48 AM
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I disagree about the need. Most OE manuals will tell you what those should be going into the cases and the nuts that go on them as well. Loctite stud and bearing mount for the ones that pull up has worked for me in the past. The biggest fear for me is overtorquing them and weakening the threads.

If you have an aftermarket manual I would keep looking. Mustang's way would be my next suggestion if you can't find a "number".
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:02 AM
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Thanks to both of you for your replies.

I just took my top end out of the bag for the first time after getting it back. I think they used vice grips on the studs to get them out. The threads on the one end are good, but the threads on the other end are not.

Now that I look at the studs closer, there is no way to get a wrench on them. The center bit that has no threads does not have sides on them. No sides = no wrench = no torque?

Brad
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:22 AM
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Just be sure to not skimp on torque wrench some are not calibrated right and will pull studs out firsthand experience bout 30 yrs ago.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:45 PM
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To remove or install studs: the best way I know is to double nut them. Use one nut to turn the stud and the second nut to lock the first. I hope that makes sense. And yes, by all means, if you get a torque spec for the studs, use it.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:53 PM
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Thank you to all who replied. All very helpful.

I will see what I can find for a torque wrench, and thanks for the double nut idea, totally makes sense.

I will also use some lock titie. I think I have some somewhere.

I think it may be red though. I'll research what the difference is and be sure to use the right color.

Brad
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:11 PM
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Red is a permanent type (high strength). Use the blue stuff.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:29 PM
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Picked up some blue today. Thanks for the help!

Brad
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:02 PM
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the important thing is to run the stud in to where you get as much of the thread of the stud in contact with the aluminum threads as you can without bottoming hard and "moving" the threads or punching through the bottom of the thread socket or cracking into a coolant channel. cleaning the threads with a brush is always a good idea.
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