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  #1  
Old 10-06-2008, 11:49 PM
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Talking Just bought a 2002 RM 250..a few ??s

MX History = age 12 Honda XR 75 4 stroke...a year later, RM 125 = Suzuki fan for life..I have not ridden in years and am 42. Despite a few complaints from the wife I actively looked for a Suzuki RM 250. Craig's List Orlando = I bought a bike last weekend and have a few questions for the Suzuki experts. It has a Gold series fatty FMF and silencer. It took a few easy kicks before I felt some compression resistance build to get started after turning the fuel line on. When I engage the clutch and click into first gear it feels like the bike just gently lurches forward. The clutch seems very sensitive. I had to give it a little throttle to get going. Then, once rolling I can feel/hear a little sputter in the pipe. The gears seem to change nicely, but when I hold the clutch in to downshift it does not seem to disengage completely. I changed the transmission oil the day I got it. I did remove the seat and check the air filter which looks quite dirty. I have a pre oiled filter in the mail. I think the sputter may come from the dirty air filter and the bike being starved. I am only using what premix is still in the tank. For the 2002 RM 250 shall I run the 32:1 that the previous owner recommended? I am waiting on the Cyclmer manual. I loved Golden Spectro premix for my old RM 125. Any recommendations from riders with the same bike?? I found 3 broken spokes on the rear wheel. Do I really have to order a whole set? As for cleaning the carb and or jets, can someone recommend an internet video or a brief technique that works for you? If it is opened and soaked in a carb cleaner solvent, do I need new carb gaskets before resealing it? What should I look for on the reeds?? How often do RM 250 riders change their topends and what break in period/technique has been true? Sorry for a lot of questions but I am stoked and want to get this baby humming.
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:15 AM
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Howdy guy, I'm kinda in the same position as you as far as being out of it for yrs. although I have a few yrs. on ya ( 51) I to have a Zuke RM 250 90 model. That sounds likle a filter could be the sputter problem and it would make it harder to start also. As far as the carb goes, thats pretty simple job,just soak it good and use compressed air to blow all the jets and orifices out real good.Also you might want to ck. compression also. Good luck. I never was a zuke fan untill I got one last year,94 RM 125 I loved it then this year decided to move up. As far as the clutch goes try adjustments, but I have to say that both of mine creep alittle even with new clutches.
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:18 AM
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I'd test the compression to check it..it may be time for a new top end. It's easy enough to do, and fairly cheap, and will add a lot of power if your current compression is low.

The bike may be running a little rich, causing it to sputter a little bit, either that or it's possible your air filter is causing the sputtering.

32:1 works, but you might want to try running it 40:1 and see how that works out.

For the carb, the way I cleaned mine out was taking it completely apart. Ran water through the jets and blew threw them to make sure they were not clogged. Blew compressed air through the rest of the passages and tubes to make sure they were free from dirt. Reset the float and you should be good to go.

For the reeds, check to see if the ends are missing any pieces, or if they are brittle.

As for the top end, it really depends on how much/hard you ride. Generally the top end should be replaced every 15-20 hours.

As for break in, it's mostly personal preference. For my bike, I start up the bike gently blipping the throttle until it warms up, and ride it no more than half throttle for the first hour or two. After that, let the bike cool down, and once it's cooled down you should be set to ride it harder.
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:04 PM
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Default WOW - the old twin flow was filthy!

Thanks CCNut and D3luxe for the prompt & helpful replies. I decided to go to a local shop and grab a Uni washable air filter this evening (still waiting on the Ready filter). I oiled up the outside of it, replaced the cage, and reinstalled it. While the seat was off I decided to remove the radiator shrouds. The kill switch was missing on the bars with just the cable ends to hot-wire kill the motor. So I also scored an OEM version of the original Suzuki kill switch. I removed the gas tank to get to the wiring and was able to strip ends and crimp a plastic coated wire joining tube to rewire the new switch. Now that everything is disassembled I feel the need to at least clean the carb & check the reeds. Then I might just need to get a Tusk clutch set and top end + gaskets from Rocky Mt and have at it. The filthy air filter & grime on the cylinder head almost make it feel mandatory since likely none were maintained for a long time.
Thanks again guys. Peace!
Sean
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:30 PM
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Hi Guy, D3luxe gave you some excellent advise,I forgot about the oil mix ratio.I use a 40:1 mix as well and have no problems with it,less carbon buildup and plugs last longer. I have Boysen reeds, as long as the reed cage isnt damaged and the ends arent cracked and theres no cracks in the reeds themselves you should be good to go there. I use the UNI filters also,just a word to the wise,take the filter apart and soak the inner and outter filters in a zip lock bag in filter oil and squeeze out the excess oil then assemble them in the bike,otherwise your risking dirt intrusion if you only spray the top with oil.Dirt and cylinders dont mix.As far as the clutchs I use,I 've had great luck using a Hinson billit basket and ebc discs. Great to here your getting back into it after so long ! Just be mindfull of the new to old difference in the bikes nowadays way faster and explosive than the ones we're used to !! ( Read my introduction post ) It will explain how my first time back went!LOL.......Jerry Ps keep us informed of how its going.
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:41 PM
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The pilot jet is the smallest of the bunch and usually the first to clog, especially if the bike has been sitting and the gas goes sour. This can cause erratic idle, slow/low speed running problems, etc. It's best just to take the whole carb apart, carb clean every nook and cranny and blow all the jets/passages out with compressed air. DO NOT use wire, drill bits or any other 'tools' to ream, I mean clean, out orifices. No gaskets needed for this bit of maintenance either.

Drain the tank, remove/clean the petcock and mix new gas since you just went through the carb.

The Zuk clutch baskets are soft, usually the plates and fibers are okay but the inner/outer basket is at fault. Check the outer and the inner for notching that will cause the plates to hang up and not fully disengage.

The spokes can be ordered individually either online or through your dealer. They usually come in two lengths so you'll need to know which ones you need. If you go with aftermarket spokes you'll need to order a whole set. Stock spokes/nipples are metric and aftermarket stuff isn't.

Be sure to water-proof your wire splices to avoid problems stemming from corrosion later on down the road.

On a bike that old I would recommend replacing both crank seals as well. They tend to wear-out while no-one seems to notice.

The 32:1 premix ratio is great; more oil allows the internal engine parts to live longer. Using good oil will keep everything clean and you won't have a problem with carbon deposits and/or build-up.

As far as a top-end goes, when in doubt just do it. The list of bad things that could happen if you wait is just not worth it. Need a picture? Here you go...




I would also recommend getting an hour meter on your bike after doing the top-end to help keep tabs on maintenance. I have logged 40 hour-meter hours on top-ends (both stock and built) without signs of serious trauma and would feel comfortable recommending that to most, unless you're really fast and/or really hard on bikes.

Good luck.
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:37 AM
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Faded and others gave good advice
Just to add the 01-02 will kill cylinders if piston is not maintained .....Intake runners will cut groove in piston and eggshape cylinder
Best oil i've found is Motul 800 or Amsoil Dominator
either are very good and run at 40.1 or 44.1
I have a copy of the service manuel on disc if You I.M Me
I will bring it tomorrow or next week and e-mail it to you
OSF
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Old 10-13-2008, 10:20 PM
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Default RM update

Faded and old school - great advice. Thanks so much. I re -oiled the Uni filter more thoroughly as per the recommendations. I also took apart the carburetor. The Clymer manual was excellent. I had to tap and back out one of the four screws on the bottom of the float bulb - it was frozen solid. Replaced it with a hex head 7mm bolt. The main jet was clear, but the accessory and power jet had some blockage. I dissolved away their debris with some carb cleaner. I reassembled the carb making sure not to bend the float arm. We shall see how I did. Since the bike was apart and I had felt the clutch slippage where it lurched when I engaged first gear, I ordered a Tusk replacement clutch plates and springs kit.
As per Faded - I have a feeling that there will be some notching or grooving in the clutch basket. Does anybody have a clear picture of basket notching??
I did not order a piston kit yet, but I want to open the cylinder and verify that the existing piston is stock or not larger in CC. The 2002 RM 250 block can not be bored only resleeved?!? yes/no??? I want to be safe and redo the top end. How can I verify that it is a stock 250 piston vs a larger bore??
I will keep you posted. Thanks again to all who offered help!
Sean
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:12 PM
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The standard bore will be the same 66.40mm as found in most bikes. You can measure the bore, look for stamping marks on the top of the piston, etc. The cylinder used a hard Nikasil coating that is super tough, if it's been bored it either has a sleeve or has been replated.

The float arm is meant to be bent a little to allow you to set your float level. If you haven't already I would recommend doing so before re-installing the carb. Click Here for a link on how to do it. Your owners manual or service manual will give you spec, usually in mm, on what the float level should be.

Rekluse has a good image of what a notched outer basket looks like...Click Here. If you pull the clutch you'll be able to see both the outer and inner basket and you can inpect both for notching as well.
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Old 10-15-2008, 04:24 PM
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Default Thanks again

Faded, Thanks for all the great info. Tomorrow night I will open the clutch and see what's up. Thanks for the notched baskets link and the tips on float setting. The Clymer manual says 6.5 mm for the float. I will verify where I am tomorrow as well. I am loving the camaraderie and sharing of advice.

Peace,
Sean Y
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:42 PM
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Default Opened up the clutch - lots of notching..

Hi Guys,
Well I drained the transmission oil and removed the clutch cover. My new Tusk clutch parts were soaking in fresh oil in a gallon Ziplok baggie. Lo and behold there was lots of notching on the outer basket and just a little on the inner. I took some good photos that would be helpful to people wanting to visualize 'notching' and saved them on my desktop. I read the FAQ and saw that I need to create an album in the 'User Control Panel', but I see no place to add/save photos or an album when I open the UCP.
Next question = Wiseco and Hinson clutch baskets are both very pricey. What about Pro-X? I know you typically get what you pay for, but can anyone offer a less costly way to replace the inner and outer clutch baskets?
Peace,
Sean
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:28 PM
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Default Photos to go with the progress!

Hi there.
I figured out how to create an album for photos so I wanted to show you guys the bike, the clutch, the piston and the cylinder.




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Old 10-22-2008, 09:40 PM
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Default Questions/comments about photo images of the RMs innards

OK,
So - what is the safest way to clean off the dark carbon deposits on the roof of the cylinder? As for the clutch I think the notching is substantial enough to change the inner and outer basket. What about the pressure plate? Should I change it as well?? I have a set of Tusk clutch plates in oil and their heavy duty springs waiting. Anyone try the Magnum aftermarket 'outer clutch basket' replacements?? Other than a carbon"y" top to the piston, it looks undamaged. The previous owner could not tell me if/when the top end was replaced. So I wanted to be safe and start fresh with a Wiseco setup.

The ring gap seems to be really large. Is that normal once you remove an old piston from the engine??
Thanks to everyone at All Things Moto. It is a great great site.

Peace,
Sean
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:59 PM
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yeah I would say the grooves are substantial enough to merrit replacement, I was having the same problem with with incomplete clutch release on my 03 125 took the side cover off and the basket, hub and disk were the picture of perfection, I actually tracked the problem down to the oil I was using, it was this stuff that is called gear saver 80w and yes it is specifically for motorcycles, I have since switched over to amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil and the clutch action is beautiful. All this is just to say be weary of what oil you are putting in the bottom end.
oh and as far as ring end gap, roughly .008" per inch of bore(wiseco's instructions)
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluffyhead View Post
Hi Guys,
Well I drained the transmission oil and removed the clutch cover. My new Tusk clutch parts were soaking in fresh oil in a gallon Ziplok baggie. Lo and behold there was lots of notching on the outer basket and just a little on the inner. I took some good photos that would be helpful to people wanting to visualize 'notching' and saved them on my desktop. I read the FAQ and saw that I need to create an album in the 'User Control Panel', but I see no place to add/save photos or an album when I open the UCP.
Next question = Wiseco and Hinson clutch baskets are both very pricey. What about Pro-X? I know you typically get what you pay for, but can anyone offer a less costly way to replace the inner and outer clutch baskets?
Peace,
Sean
I have an 03 RM125.

I used a Moose brand outer basket for replacing my worn stock basket. I believe it was around $160, have to check on that. the inner hub, i just got a stock replacement, from
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] or you can just order from suzuki shop, prices should be comparable. 56 dollars for an inner hub is a bargain, even if it does wear out faster than the 350 dollar aftermarket pieces.

Rob
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