Try this place, they did my RM cylinder, works great.
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Got the old cases split with the Tusk case splitter and removed the crankshaft.
Per OlSchoolFool393's recommendation I am going to have the crank rebuilt along with the boring/replating to stock OEM piston size. As I nervously tried to remove the gears things felt stuck. I removed the 3 shift forks and labelled them as well as the shift barrel. The two rods holding the gears would not budge.
I went to the outside of the flywheel side of the case and looked at the orange compound spackled by the original owner/ +JB Weld I used and tapped at it with a flat blade screwdriver. Sure enough a big piece came off and I could see light. There was a hole in the case the size of a quarter in front of the sprocket. I actually reached in with the screwdriver and was able to rubber mallet tap the anterior gear rod and then the whole transmission popped out. I stored the parts in the right order.
Here is the big question. There may be some shaved metal particles in there. What is the best solvent for cleaning all of the gears and or debris left in the small bearings throughout the case halves?? I am getting new crank bearings and seals (a second set) along with the crank rod kit.
Don, I can not say thank you enough for the kind offering of help on this project! As I mentioned to OlSchoolFool393 and as I will add it to the 'Pay It Forward' portion of ATM - I have a set of 2005 RM250 case halves for any ATMer who is in need simply for the cost of shipping (not ebay mark up style, either). So, thanks one and all for reading and helping.
If you don't have a parts washer, you could get a plastic pail and use diesel fuel or some kind of safe solvent, a gallon of WD-40, about anything except gasoline would work, gas is to flammable. I have used carb cleaner or brake cleaner, spray everything out and blow with compressed air. The dry clean bearings will sound like junk when you spin them, oil them back up and they will be OK. I have a Clymer RM manual that you can borrow if you want it, I'll mail it to you, let me know. It's pretty detailed and shows every model in detail, better than I thought it would be when I ordered it.
Sean ,Sorry I forgot to send You Tom's info
look under MXRATRACING.Com
Tom Conner is His name He can Help with Your Cylinder, Crank etc .
Clean Your engine parts with Mineral spirits and
then put back together with clean engine oil
when You get ready to put back together call Me
and I'll tell You the little tricks with this engine
Send Your piston and rings with cylinder to be sized right
Just an update - Cylinder and crankshaft sent off to MX Rat Racing in Texas for bore, replate to stock OEM 250 piston size. I ordered a hot rod crank for the crank rebuild plus new bearings and seals for the crankshaft / lower end rebuild.
OlSchoolFool is hooking me up with replacement cases and another used RM owning ATMer took me up on the 'Pay It Forward' offer for the 2005 RM 250 cases. I am really looking forward to the total rebuild when the parts and pieces are all here.
I bought some methylethylketone @ Lowes and started cleaning the powervalve. Man oh man, I got Mr. Clean Rubber gloves and started scrubbing with an old throw away tooth brush last night. I can see the original metal color, but it is still really black. I didn't try a metal wire brush with the MEK, but I may use it for the more stubborn black oil deposits. I have a feeling it was never cleaned since 2002.
I will update when parts come back.
|high rev, lower end, rm250|
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