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  #16  
Old 01-12-2009, 06:59 AM
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I would not mess with a sleeve on that. Everyone I have ever known that put a sleeve in, had cooling problems. I would look for the correct year cylinder. As you noted before, the exhaust valve is different and attaching the power valve rod from the crankcase may not match up.
Best of luck with your project.
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  #17  
Old 01-13-2009, 11:45 AM
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All Bad news.......
The cylinder can be repaired, As I posted earlier about
2 bills to repair and nickel-sil and My advice is to ONLY
run Suzuki pistons in these cylinders with Motul 800
or Amsoil Dominater , I prefer Amsoil,Runs cleaner Mix at 44/1

The cylinders on 01/02/03 will not interchange !

Power valves ,intakes ,reeds,Pipes are all different
I have been through all this !!
If You over bore You will need to cut power valves and cylinder head also port match.

OSF
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  #18  
Old 01-13-2009, 02:12 PM
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All good learning I guess,I am currently rebuilding my 85 RM125 engine so am going through the same as you. only good thing is mine is not a plated cylinder.
Good luck with getting the stuff sorted.
I can tig weld but I live in the uk so cant offer my help unfortunately.I wouls imagine the welding would be pretty tricky due to access but its all good fun for a welder.
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2009, 10:44 AM
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OK - I have had major problems getting all of the hardware off of the clutch side case. The 2 philips head screws retaining the exhaust valve governor assembly stripped immediately upon screw driver insertion and twist. I used a drill press to create a hole in the center of both screws; tapped in a screw extractor; tapper broke off in both the holes - soooo hard to take a drill bit to it after that. Finally with much patience and a Dremmel tool I have 1.5 screws out. I will get the last bit out later . Hooked up the nifty Tusk case splitter and watched/refreshed the RockyMt ATV Youtube vid on lower ends - it sure looks easy when Eric does it. I have triple checked that all of the retaining bolts are out of the flywheel case half - The case does not look like it is budging and I have generated some serious torque on that 17mm head of the splitter. Tapped the halves with a rubber mallet = still no go.
Since the flywheel side case has the crack/defect by the swing arm I may need to take a big screw driver to it and delicately wedge the case halves apart.
In the continuing bad luck bike saga - I got 2005 RM 250 cases off of ebay for $80 a few weeks ago supposedly that would fit 2001-2006 RM 250s.
They look identical to the 2002 externally. When I tried the 2002 cylinder head on the 2005 cases it would not go down. The left side fits beautifully and the right side will go to place as well - but seperately, not together. Closer visual eval of the 4 bolts sticking up out of the cases shows that the flywheel side front bolt is more medial (by like 4-5mm) than the 2002 bolts.
Dilemma!
Also, the 2 rear cylinder retention bolts that are taller on either case half are too short to extend threads through the cylinder.
Can I modify/change those rear bolts to taller ones?? Keep looking for a different set of case halves and resell the 2005 cases?
Oh, and after removing the power valve assembly from the cylinder - it definitely is going in for a bore, strip and replate. Who has had good success with US Chrome in Wisconsin? They responded to phone and email readily with a 2 week turn around + or -. I've read rave reviews about Eric Gorr, but the voicemail is full and no returned email..I ordered a new OEM piston and rings + circlips from my local Suzuki dealer and it will be here next week - then I have to pack up the cylinder and mail it out.
70 degrees perfect and no bike to ride - d'ooohh!

Peace,
Sean
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  #20  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:24 PM
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Sean,I didn't say anything before cause You already had
a set of cases.
I have a set of cases call Me
Don OSF
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2009, 02:24 PM
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Try this place, they did my RM cylinder, works great.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
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  #22  
Old 01-21-2009, 11:55 AM
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OK!
Got the old cases split with the Tusk case splitter and removed the crankshaft.

Per OlSchoolFool393's recommendation I am going to have the crank rebuilt along with the boring/replating to stock OEM piston size. As I nervously tried to remove the gears things felt stuck. I removed the 3 shift forks and labelled them as well as the shift barrel. The two rods holding the gears would not budge.
I went to the outside of the flywheel side of the case and looked at the orange compound spackled by the original owner/ +JB Weld I used and tapped at it with a flat blade screwdriver. Sure enough a big piece came off and I could see light. There was a hole in the case the size of a quarter in front of the sprocket. I actually reached in with the screwdriver and was able to rubber mallet tap the anterior gear rod and then the whole transmission popped out. I stored the parts in the right order.

Here is the big question. There may be some shaved metal particles in there. What is the best solvent for cleaning all of the gears and or debris left in the small bearings throughout the case halves?? I am getting new crank bearings and seals (a second set) along with the crank rod kit.
Don, I can not say thank you enough for the kind offering of help on this project! As I mentioned to OlSchoolFool393 and as I will add it to the 'Pay It Forward' portion of ATM - I have a set of 2005 RM250 case halves for any ATMer who is in need simply for the cost of shipping (not ebay mark up style, either). So, thanks one and all for reading and helping.

Peace,
Sean
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  #23  
Old 01-21-2009, 02:20 PM
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If you don't have a parts washer, you could get a plastic pail and use diesel fuel or some kind of safe solvent, a gallon of WD-40, about anything except gasoline would work, gas is to flammable. I have used carb cleaner or brake cleaner, spray everything out and blow with compressed air. The dry clean bearings will sound like junk when you spin them, oil them back up and they will be OK. I have a Clymer RM manual that you can borrow if you want it, I'll mail it to you, let me know. It's pretty detailed and shows every model in detail, better than I thought it would be when I ordered it.
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  #24  
Old 01-21-2009, 03:08 PM
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Sean ,Sorry I forgot to send You Tom's info
look under MXRATRACING.Com
Tom Conner is His name He can Help with Your Cylinder, Crank etc .
Clean Your engine parts with Mineral spirits and
then put back together with clean engine oil
when You get ready to put back together call Me
and I'll tell You the little tricks with this engine
Send Your piston and rings with cylinder to be sized right
OSF
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  #25  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:02 AM
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Just an update - Cylinder and crankshaft sent off to MX Rat Racing in Texas for bore, replate to stock OEM 250 piston size. I ordered a hot rod crank for the crank rebuild plus new bearings and seals for the crankshaft / lower end rebuild.
OlSchoolFool is hooking me up with replacement cases and another used RM owning ATMer took me up on the 'Pay It Forward' offer for the 2005 RM 250 cases. I am really looking forward to the total rebuild when the parts and pieces are all here.
I bought some methylethylketone @ Lowes and started cleaning the powervalve. Man oh man, I got Mr. Clean Rubber gloves and started scrubbing with an old throw away tooth brush last night. I can see the original metal color, but it is still really black. I didn't try a metal wire brush with the MEK, but I may use it for the more stubborn black oil deposits. I have a feeling it was never cleaned since 2002.
I will update when parts come back.
Peace,
Sean
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  #26  
Old 01-29-2009, 04:57 AM
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Be careful with MEK, it's bad stuff.
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