83 rm 125

[HANDM]

Howdy, 2-smoke newb here with questions...go figure. I have searched the forum thoroughly and couldn't find some specifics
I have a manual on the way, and just can't wait for specs (too excited about getting it running)

When I first tried to start the bike it kept wet fouling the plug, even with the carb devoid of fuel. Pulled carb, reeds and turned the whole bike over, and at least a cup and a half of the baddest gas I have ever smelled came out of the intake Left it open to dry out, put it together and tried to start it, no go

ENGINE
1. What is normal compression for this bike?
2. How many kicks do you need to get the proper reading? (I have to kick upwards of ten times to get the highest reading)cold, by the way
3. Is 160 psi enough to get it running? (I tried the finger test first and it definitly wouldn't blow it off)
4. What is considered good spark (my spark seems weak and intermittent)
5. Should the plug spark with every revolution of the engine? (mine sparks, just doesn't seenm right)
TRANNY
When trying the gears it seems that there is a false nuetral in between gears 2-5. I can click it up to each gear but with a single push down it seems like nuetral. Another tap down gear, another tap nuetral and so on. (edit- took the clutch basket apart and found all the plates basically stuck together with some seriously old goo, looked like old grease, cleaned up real nice with minimal wear and basket looks brand new)

What do ya thin is up with that, bent fork? sticky gears?
The bike didn't cost me anything, my buddy bought it and then found a 82 pe175, so poof just like that the rm is mine
I am planning to do a mechanical resto on this bike, provided I can find parts!
If not, who cares it was FREE
Thanks in advance for any and all responses

[cherokee rider]

Originally Posted by HANDM

Howdy, 2-smoke newb here with questions...go figure. I have searched the forum thoroughly and couldn't find some specifics
I have a manual on the way, and just can't wait for specs (too excited about getting it running)

When I first tried to start the bike it kept wet fouling the plug, even with the carb devoid of fuel. Pulled carb, reeds and turned the whole bike over, and at least a cup and a half of the baddest gas I have ever smelled came out of the intake Left it open to dry out, put it together and tried to start it, no go

ENGINE
1. What is normal compression for this bike?
2. How many kicks do you need to get the proper reading? (I have to kick upwards of ten times to get the highest reading)cold, by the way
3. Is 160 psi enough to get it running? (I tried the finger test first and it definitly wouldn't blow it off)
4. What is considered good spark (my spark seems weak and intermittent)
5. Should the plug spark with every revolution of the engine? (mine sparks, just doesn't seenm right)
TRANNY
When trying the gears it seems that there is a false nuetral in between gears 2-5. I can click it up to each gear but with a single push down it seems like nuetral. Another tap down gear, another tap nuetral and so on. (edit- took the clutch basket apart and found all the plates basically stuck together with some seriously old goo, looked like old grease, cleaned up real nice with minimal wear and basket looks brand new)

What do ya thin is up with that, bent fork? sticky gears?
The bike didn't cost me anything, my buddy bought it and then found a 82 pe175, so poof just like that the rm is mine
I am planning to do a mechanical resto on this bike, provided I can find parts!
If not, who cares it was FREE
Thanks in advance for any and all responses

hey ya bro! im the same boat i inhereted a 84 rm with troubles has intermidiate spark problem already spent 350.00 on the magneeto startor and new coil ,started for a 5 minute ride then lost spark again let it sit for a couple of weeks went out to start itv again check it had spark but gas leaking 2 spots on side of the carby dang if some one had took some one has:took to screws off the side o man its giving me a head ache ! also tried to locate a new flat slide for carby only could locate the needle even in japan the only thing is i actually paid 900.00 for it it was running fine but only rode 2 hours or less then i was pushing it lol! help

[HANDM]

Oh man, that sucks!
My buddy paid just $150 for the RM, so any cash I put int it should be worth it. It's all there but missing the left radiator shroud, both side plastics and number plate.

I would take the carb off, clean it, check the float/ and needle valve. If you are missing screws, just find anything that will work. I have had great success using other parts/ screws and whatnot from my Honda 200x parts wheeler anything else like grommets, special thread screws and so on from my local hardware store.

Sometimes we have to make due.
Lets keep in contact and maybe we can help each other out
I am going out to put the motor back in and try to fire it up.....wish me luck and I will wish you the same
later

[gregorious77]

Ive got an 84 RM125 and ive done top and bottom end on it.
Fuel in your engine must mean your float valve in the carb has been leaking which filled the crank case up with fuel.
160 psi is about right for a 125 you should feel a good resistance kicking it over and with the plug out it should blow your finger off the hole no problem.
You should have a nice fat blue spark on every stroke of the engine.
Best thing you can do is strip the carb down and get it all cleaned up really good and go from there.

[HANDM]

Originally Posted by gregorious77

Ive got an 84 RM125 and ive done top and bottom end on it.
Fuel in your engine must mean your float valve in the carb has been leaking which filled the crank case up with fuel.
160 psi is about right for a 125 you should feel a good resistance kicking it over and with the plug out it should blow your finger off the hole no problem.
You should have a nice fat blue spark on every stroke of the engine.
Best thing you can do is strip the carb down and get it all cleaned up really good and go from there.

Carb was the first thing I cleaned, fills with no leaks, so that is ok. However the throttle valve is worn badly and needs to be replaced.

After checking my coil in a running 82 PE I just left it in the 82 since the wire is too short for the RM and works fine on the PE.

Took the stator out and found it was wet and rusty. Cleaned, emery clothed it, put it back together.

Now, no spark at all

I am going tto check the black box on the PE and see if that's the trouble

Any thoughts?
Thanks for the reply

[HANDM]

Removed Black box from RM, swapped it into the PE, checked spark and it was perfect, fat, blue and constant.

So I guess that leaves the stator
I will keep yall posted

[HANDM]

Pulled stator, checked continuity, found one coil good, other bad, which would explain why it was only sparking intermittently at first.
Looks like it's time for a re-wind

[gregorious77]

yep or see if you can get a used stator. keep us informed on the progress

[HANDM]

Checked at my local boneyard, no luck there. I found on ebay, stators for $99but I really don't want to pay that.

Anyone have a spare? It seems, according to the ebay store and this list, a stator from any of these bikes will fit/ work
Here is a link with picture [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125 Elsinore, 79-80
Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125, 81-83
Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125 Elsinore, 81-83
SUZUKI
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 77-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 82-85
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 86-01
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM85, L, 02-07
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM100, 76-78
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM100, 79-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI TM100, 74-75
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 75-78
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 79-80
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 81-83
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 84-85
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 86
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI TM125, 73-75
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 76-79
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 80-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 82-86
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM370, 76-77
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM400, 78-80
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM465, 81-82
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM500, 83-84


When putting the engine in, I pulled the back tire and looked at the bearings dry as a bone with the grease crumbling out, cleaned/ repacked, now roll smooth as glass.

Same story with the swingarm bearings. I am sure the front wheel is dry too

[JonW]

Check out onthepiperacing.
I am sure Lee has one for the bike.

[HANDM]

Well, since I need to wait for parts, I tore the bike down to it's component parts and found....
Rear frame/ seat fender support, has been bent and broken. Right side bent inward, left side broken and then welded poorly. Bent to the outside. Mounting brackets on radiator broken and JB welded back into place. Rear rim dented, and missing two or more spokes. Homemade rear brake lever and arm thing. Head bearings dry and leaking fork seals.

Is there any way to tell if the main frame is bent? Any specific spots I should measure from?

Thanks

I was just looking on the vintage moto page, and think maybe I shoulda started this thread there.

Mods, If you want to move this thread to there I am cool with that ;-)
If not, thats cool too
Later

[Duran676]

Sweet i have a 83 rm 125 too. I still need a few things to even think about getting it started but its comoing along SLOWLY. Kinda hard doing anything out here on deployment

[JonW]

Originally Posted by HANDM

Well, since I need to wait for parts, I tore the bike down to it's component parts and found....
Rear frame/ seat fender support, has been bent and broken. Right side bent inward, left side broken and then welded poorly. Bent to the outside. Mounting brackets on radiator broken and JB welded back into place. Rear rim dented, and missing two or more spokes. Homemade rear brake lever and arm thing. Head bearings dry and leaking fork seals.

Is there any way to tell if the main frame is bent? Any specific spots I should measure from?

Thanks

I was just looking on the vintage moto page, and think maybe I shoulda started this thread there.

Mods, If you want to move this thread to there I am cool with that ;-)
If not, thats cool too
Later

It sounds like the frame is pretty messed up. It might be easier and safer to get another one.
Lee has one.
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

[HANDM]

Yep,
Found that one, I am going to go over the frame with a fine tooth comb and if I find anything else that looks questionable it will be replaced.
Thanks for the link however;-)

[cherokee rider]

Originally Posted by HANDM

Checked at my local boneyard, no luck there. I found on ebay, stators for $99but I really don't want to pay that.

Anyone have a spare? It seems, according to the ebay store and this list, a stator from any of these bikes will fit/ work
Here is a link with picture [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125 Elsinore, 79-80
Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125, 81-83
Dirt Bike: HONDA CR125 Elsinore, 81-83
SUZUKI
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 77-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 82-85
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM80, 86-01
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM85, L, 02-07
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM100, 76-78
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM100, 79-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI TM100, 74-75
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 75-78
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 79-80
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 81-83
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 84-85
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM125, 86
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI TM125, 73-75
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 76-79
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 80-81
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM250, 82-86
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM370, 76-77
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM400, 78-80
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM465, 81-82
Dirt Bike: SUZUKI RM500, 83-84


When putting the engine in, I pulled the back tire and looked at the bearings dry as a bone with the grease crumbling out, cleaned/ repacked, now roll smooth as glass.

Same story with the swingarm bearings. I am sure the front wheel is dry too

wow! thats sounds cheap to me there going for 300 -350.00 second hand here downunder , ive got the 84 rm 125 some one before has butchered the backing plate on the timing and the lazy auto electician only rewound one coil so i ve got intermitate spark problem so thanks for putting up the ebay item link im gonna check it out can the does any one know if the coils can be transfered to another stator? cheers bro,s

[HANDM]

Upon going over the frame, and taking a few measurements from several key locations (key imo) and found it to be totally square. The only thing that looked suspicious was the left (tailbone) being bent out and the other in.
After looking over the factory welds, it is clear that they all look like crap and that the left tailbone break/ weld looks equally as bad. So I am thinking that the break/ weld is not a break/ weld after all and it is just a factory re-enforcement. I will straighten the left tailbone and see what the seat/ fender look like all mocked up and go from there

Later

[adrian1250]

hey i have a 82 rm 125 for sale 400$ but im in southern cali if anyone is interested email me it runs fine only thing is kill switch stoped working and missing side plastics and rear fender other than that its fine..