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Old 05-17-2010, 07:42 PM
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Default Splitting the case on '95 125

I just drained the engine and pulled out every bolt that I could find on the cylinder side of the engine. I'm trying to make sure that the crank and case are clean.

My manual says that I need a special puller, but do I really need it?

Any/all help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Last edited by hunter77ah; 05-18-2010 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
pulled out every bolt that I could find on the cylinder side of the engine
Which side is that? Are you removing the case bolts from the left side
of the engine?

Quote:
My manual says that I need a special puller, but do I really need it?
There are some that say you don't, I'm not one of them. A case splitter will
make your life a whole lot easier especially if you are dealing with an older
engine with seized or stubborn alignment dowels. The worst thing you can
do is try to pry the case halves apart with a screwdriver or some similar tool.
An excellent case splitter can be purchased from Rocky Mountain for under
$60.

dogger
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:44 AM
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(sigh) This project is getting expensive....

Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-18-2010, 02:09 PM
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I am one of the ones who doesn't think you need one. As dogger says it makes life nicer though. I have a few that I seldom bother finding when I want a set of cases apart. If you want to make one and don't already have a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller, those work fine with some long bolts (the same thread that holds your covers on works dandy).

keep in mind that there is a good likelihood that you will need to tap at the countershaft sprocket to keep the cases somewhat parallel as they come apart or risk warping the case, (which is quite possible with the "correct tool" in the "wrong hands").

Mine come apart pretty easily it seems by removing all the bolts and the cylinder if I just use a heat gun or gas torch on the ignition side (rotor and stator removed) as I tap with a mallet (a piece of two by four works too) at both exposed shafts while I support the case unit by holding it at the transfer port area or cylinder studs etc. doesnt usually take much to get the case to turn loose of the bearing, which remains on the crank.

Decide how you want to spend your money and how often you will need a puller. Lots of other types of pullers will work for the cases if so desired, but you WILL NEEd one that is made for the job to remove the flywheel rotor.

FYI my CR 500 was together for 16 years before I split the cases by the above method. I have done it with bikes that hadnt been apart since the 60's and seventies as well. But you may indeed run across one where that tool is worth the 60 dollars.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:41 AM
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I bought the splitter, took off the flywheel, 6 bolts, sprocket and external shifter. Do i need to take off anything else before I split it? Do I need to take off the clutch? Do i need to pull out any rods or anything else

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:54 AM
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i thought you would be done and riding by now. are you trying this without a manual? I think there is one online here somewhere. since you waited this long there isn't a real need to be in a hurry is there? I would at least remove the outer clutch cover and take the actuating rod out.

you can leave everything in the right side case if that suits your purposes.
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Old 05-26-2010, 01:41 PM
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I would have had the case stripped down to just the two cases at this point.

The clutch, primary drive gear, kickstarter and idler gear all come off, and the outer case with the water pump also comes off. Jug is off. Flywheel off, stator off, shifter linkage off (I got away with leaving the shift drum and all that **** in place, just removed the shaft for the shifter - and make sure you dont lose the washer that comes from behind the shifter shaft and idler gear between the kick starter gear and clutch basket. Also as you pull off each gear, watch VERY carefully for where washers were and try to stack them with their gears in order so you dont forget where they went. This is real important for the clutch basket and pressure plate. There's a lot of small parts in there you need to keep track of. Fortunately you can pretty much completely reassemble the clutch basket on the desk and keep it all together. Just watch out for the clutch actuation rod and the ball bearing between that rod and the pressure plate hat thing. That little ball is not optional and it's very easy to lose, so make sure you get it.

Take all the bolts holding the cases together off and make a diagram so you know where they go.



If you dont then it's okay, you can figure it out, just drop them in their holes and make sure they all settle at the same height before being threaded. Mine is a 96 125, so you should have just as many case bolts removed as I do in that diagram there. Make sure you get them all.

But basically there should be nothing left except the cases and the crankshaft and the shafts in the transmission.

When get you get the cases split just turn the side with the trans shafts in it on its side, and remove the whole transmission as an assembly after you get the shifter forks and their shafts out. The forks are labeled L, C, and R for Left, Center, and Right side of the case.



I just left the shift drum and its associated parts inside the case. They looked a little complicated and annoying to deal with, and I see no reason for them to come out other than cleaning behind them or replacing them, and I was able to get everything pretty clean even with it there. Getting all the forks in there with the drum in the way is tricky but it's just a strategy thing. It can be done and I've done it twice now. It's not bad, so when you cross that bridge, don't stress, just remember to get the forks in place between the gears and in the correct drum groove (they really only go back in one way) before you put the fork shafts back in.

If you just make sure you get every bearing and washer in order and check behind things you remove for bearings and washers, you'll be fine. Washers can get stuck to the back of things you pull off, so check the back of them and check where they were on the case and keep it all together and in order.

Last edited by InfernalVortex; 05-26-2010 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:11 PM
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Lol, Infernal, I picture you taking things apart while you ride!
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossagp View Post
i thought you would be done and riding by now. since you waited this long there isn't a real need to be in a hurry is there? I would at least remove the outer clutch cover and take the actuating rod out.

you can leave everything in the right side case if that suits your purposes.
So did I... My frustration level is at an all time high. As it has been said "I want to dropkick a baby." My local dealer sent my cylinder to US chrome 3 weeks ago and hasn't heard anything and I keep ordering tools that have 3-5 day shipping...

Can I split it now? I'm trying not to bend my crank.



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Old 05-26-2010, 02:41 PM
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at this point I would power wash it with the crankcase opening taped up. that way you would have as little chance of any of getting some dirt into bearings you aren't going to replace, but yeah, I have spit them with way less removed when I had a purpose for doing so.
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