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fork rebuild

This is a discussion on fork rebuild within the 2-Stroke Motorcycles - Honda forum, part of the 2-Stroke Motorcycle Forums category; ok i just recieved the parts for my fork rebuild and i want to make sure i do it right ...

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  #1  
Old 08-14-2008, 03:09 PM
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Default fork rebuild

ok i just recieved the parts for my fork rebuild and i want to make sure i do it right this time.
i dont have a seal driver but i borrowed a friends before and well it still leaked lol.
im gonna try make a pvc one but what ive done before and it worked on the other fork was cut the old seal and use that to push in the seal plate (with a hammer) and then push in the new seal after it.

what i want to ask is

1) is it a must that the seal and seal retainer plate go in togther? or can i push in the plate (which is actually the tighter of the two) first and then basically with my fingers push in the seal to the circlip fittable position?

2) i just read that the kyb units have an up and a down for the retainer plates, same is true for showa? how will i be able to tell? didint see nor look for any marks on the plates ever.


thanks
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Old 08-15-2008, 07:00 AM
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Default Re: fork rebuild



cmon guys....
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:11 PM
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Default Re: fork rebuild

When you say seal retainer plate, are you just talking about that big washer that goes in first?

If so, I always put the washer in first. Mine typically just drop in, and then I move it side to side until it bottoms. Maybe a tap or two with a punch and it's seated.

then I put the seal in afterwards. Just make sure you either use a seal bullet or a plastic bag over the top of the fork stanction (the crome part) before putting the seal and wiper on or you chances of getting to replace them again real soon go up dramatically. Oh and use some grease on the lips of both the seal and wiper to help them slid on easier.

That washer to my knowledge doesn't have a correct side. It's flat and can go in either way. At least I've never seen anything that tells me it only goes one way, and from the looks of it, it doesn't matter.

BTW, seal drivers are a little spendy, but IMOP, they are worth the money.
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:13 AM
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Default Re: fork rebuild

thanks woody.

yep thats it the big washer.

i took apart the leaking fork last night and the washer is flat (and used) on one side but humped/curved outwards on the other.
i wonder what effect this can have.
the seal is supposed to 'seal' the outer and inner tube so it shouldnt matter, unless the shape of the washer somehow effects the oil pressure at the seal point.

any KYB gurus that can advise on the direction of these washers?

im wondering if the washer was replaced at some point with an incorrect one.

ill take apart the other fork today and see which side up i had put that one. that one doesnt leak

oh and the spring on the compression stack, is that supposed to be in tension all the time? mine has about an inch play up and down....

thanks
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:45 AM
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Default Re: fork rebuild

Hmm, it seems like that spring shouldn't move, but the more I think about it, the more I think... it just might... I honestly can't remember.
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Old 08-21-2008, 09:45 PM
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Default Re: fork rebuild

In the Clymer manual it says to place that ring in with the flat side down. So while riding the bike, the flat part would be facing the ground and the rounded side facing up.
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:58 AM
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Default Re: fork rebuild

Thanks T-MAC that's good to know.

I doubt it will make much difference though because the rounded side isn't really too round. But it's still good to know.
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