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Old 02-02-2009, 06:38 PM
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Default Cylinder Stud Problems CR'03

Hey guys,

Ive been cleaning and servicing the engine and as I was putting the cylinder head back the other day 1 of the shorter two studs pulled out of the cylinder casing. I cursed my luck and purchased a helicoil kit and repaired it today!! However!!.... as I went to fix the cylinder head on again the other shorter stud did exactly the same, so I then replaced this which wasn't to much of a ball ache as I now had the kit. But then!! As I went for the third attempt one of the four longer studs actually snapped off in the cylinder ! Now its either the torque wrench I've just bought is over tightening or something else??? Has anyone else experienced anything like this or am I doin something wrong?? I'm following the correct procedure according to the manual and the wrench is new, OK it was not over expensive but still this is just taking the piss now!!

Cheers

Steve
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:09 PM
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Lots of things could be wrong but one of the less obvious things is - are you lubricating the threads?

Torques specs are almost always for dry threads.

Scott
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Old 02-03-2009, 02:44 AM
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Hi Scott,

Er I did smear a tad of grease on the studs after cleaning the threads up to make them easier to come off in the future. I've had so many insanely tight nuts on the bike as I've been servicing various other parts this was my reason for it. Personally I don't think the previous had really maintained it very well... if at all in the last couple of years, thus everything was a battle to try and remove. Like the Brake Pin Hanger that was seized which I mentioned in an earlier post. After I fixed the pin I then had to fill up with brake fluid and bleed the brakes, this in turn lead to having to drill out one of the master cylinder screws as that was seized and the head rounded. Basically every little job has been spiraling into bigger jobs causing more damage on the way through bad maintenance.
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Old 02-25-2009, 04:40 PM
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Well, seems like you either overtightend the head nuts, or the threads were gummed up and actually spinning the studs in the cylinder and it being soft metal, pulled the threads out in the process. You have to be carefull with soft metals like that. Whenever I do a top end or anything I always clean the threads with the correct Die and tap on nuts to "chase" the threads and cut any foreign material out. Simply wirebrushing is not good enough. Use two jam nuts, tighten, then use top nut to remove studs. There is alot of heat in the cyl., so a thread locking agent is not good. A good torque reading is obtained by a well fitting thread, if the threads are gummed, usually you will get a low reading. A helicoil will work, but i prefer to use what is called a "keysert". you can get it at any hardware. the same inserts GM uses in aluminum blocks for steel studs. you just have to drill out and tap for the insert. My two cents worth.
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