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  #1  
Old 04-23-2014, 08:32 AM
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Default Copper coat on head gasket?

     

Okay so my head gasket leaked since i replaced and rebuilt my top end. I ordered stock nuts because i had to use different ones so hopefully that is the fix but some people recommended using "copper coat" on the gasket but I've never seen anyone do that, i also wondered about the coolant going through the gasket if the copper coat will get in there and clog it up. I just don't want the new gasket to leak.
Thanks,
Isaac
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:53 AM
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I have used it on car engines. I have heard of some old timers using silver spray paint on their head gaskets.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:23 AM
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The copper is a great thing to use its a soft metal and therefor will squeeze and seal really well. All my gaskets have it on them.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:19 PM
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Absolutely on the metal gaskets. Stuff is nice and sticky
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:00 PM
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The head gasket is also copper, so i wasnt sure. we're going to see if the new nuts fix it and if not we might try copper coat.
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Yes, you can use it as it works fine.

Paw Paw
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:30 PM
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If you are going to pull the old nuts off then you should probably go ahead and replace the gasket entirely before throwing the new nuts on. As the others have said, nothing wrong with a little copper spray on your new gaskets.


Edit: Just reread your post and looks like I over looked the fact that you are going to replace head gasket and not reuse it.
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:16 PM
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Yep, just replaced it and used copper coat, seems to have sealed much better but we'll see when we start it up and ride it for its first break in rides.
Thanks,
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:41 PM
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Just putting it out there... Are the gasket mating surfaces flat?

---------- Post added at 12:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:10 PM ----------

Sometimes you can warm the copper gaskets first then fit(??)
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:25 AM
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Yes they are, the machinist checked everything when he bored it out.
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:05 PM
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Well now im confused..It still leaks but i ignored it and rode it 3 times today (break in rides) hoping that it will head up and seat then stop leaking, ill keep you updated.
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:38 PM
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Don't count on thermal expansion sealing your head gasket!!! bumps facing up?
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:28 PM
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Well if you used a new gasket and torqued everything it should be sealing. I'm starting to think there is warpage somewhere...... Two gaskets and still a leak? Something is up... Painful as it is...tear down and use a plate glass to check yourself ( if you can )
Look for burrs etc post a picture too that might help ...
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:57 PM
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Yea i guess ill have to do that...really getting me down not being able to ride it for so long and now that i can i need to tear it down again and the carb needs some mad adjusting.. it is what it is i guess. I guess i ASSUMED the machinist would have checked for that...considering he had to adjust both.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:20 AM
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OK I had the same problem with a bike I fixed for a friend, 3 different gaskets & cooper coat. The final fix was to torque the head, then run 10 minute heat cycles & the re-torque the head.

I torqued the head 5 times before I gave him the bike back & I told him to check the torque on the head every time he rode that Husky for the next 2 weeks. So every time he did any laps, he would let it cool while he rested & then he'd do it again!

Now he just check's it before every ride! it's been 2 years & no a leaking.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:57 AM
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Soften the gasket first maybe, so it molds to the head better...
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:51 AM
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Take the cylinder off and make sure all the cylinder studs are screwed all the way down into the case. Sometimes when you remove the top end the studs have a tendency to back out a bit while removing the head nuts, leaving the shoulder of the stud where the threads end sticking up too high and not letting the head seat all the way down on re-assembly.
You can re-set them back into the case by locking two head nuts together on the stud, then tighten the stud back down, then unlocking the nuts.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:01 AM
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Ill check all these things, first obviously im going to check the torque because if that's the fix its the easiest one. If not ill tear it down and check level and heat up the seal before i install it and check the studs. Any more advice?
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:46 AM
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Be sure to torque the head in a criss cross pattern ( vital ) I like to use two/three stages when torquing down heads, I find that the head settles much better and you actually get a better and more accurate torque that way. Another thing to remember when torquing anything is to make sure the threads of both nuts and bolts are rust free, often why I like to use new hardware on sure items as heads etc. If washers are used, apply a very thing layer of grease to ensure that friction isn't causing your torque wrench to 'click' before it's actually reached the correct tension required. You'll be surprised....
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:23 AM
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I will definitely try a few different stages when torquing, and i have done the criss cross pattern, The nuts are all new, and I'm planning on using two nuts to make sure the studs are seated.
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