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Old 12-05-2011, 09:13 PM
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Question 2001 CR250 woods mods?

I'm new to dirt and to 2T. Just picked up a mostly stock 01 CR250. Bike has a Gnarly expansion chamber and standard length silencer. Comes with hand guards and fat bars.

What are some good things for me to look at for mods? Plan on woods riding with a buddy on his 99. Live in CT so a lot of rocks and trees. What are decent tires? Is flywheel weight good idea? Not going to race, this is secondary bike to have fun and get in better shape.

Thanks for the help.


Oh - gear reccomendations? Have mx style helmet goggles boots gloves and socks already from my motard gear.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:05 PM
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my son's 2000 is pretty similar to yours. he has an 01 cylinder that he got in 01 for it. it came with the 01 mikuni carb, that left but the cylinder stayed. he uses a flywheel weight and likes it. i got a deal on a rekluse clutch, and i really liked that one. you can run higher gearing and still creep through the woods. with it you can about throw away the flywheel weight. i think if i were starting with it again and didnt have the budget, i would put the clutch on first.

he is over 210 dressed to ride and played with the valving on the stock forks until he put some off a 2003 on his. he was pretty happy right out of the box with a few clicks slower on the rebound for trail than track.

maxxis makes some pretty good tires, and he finally dropped the dunlops for those. just due to price.

a skid plate that really adds some rock protection is good where he rides, the other thing you probably want are hand guards.

i have a set of spendy levers that are made to fold backwards. for the life of me i dont like the feel and would suggest that you carry spares taped behind your number plate instead of spending on those.

he never bigbored his, but that engine loves it for trail use. something to think about when the cylinder is worn. we did it with older ones with great success.

he also likes the vforce reeds, which tend to make it to spin happy for me. boysens dual stage replacements on the stock box with the rekluse and the stock pipe would be my choice. in fact, i think if all the money spent on pipes (we have everything including a sonic) reeds, and gearing we could have just bought the clutch from the start and had a much nicer woods bike than he rode with for 9 years and all the other mods put together.
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:06 PM
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so far... bike came with hand guards. dealer had a left over skid plate i got for a nice discount. ordered up a flywheel weight to try. bike has a fmf gnarly and snotty "silencer" to go with it. spare spark plug, levers and tool kit to keep things usable when i bin it.
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Old 12-08-2011, 01:04 AM
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that is a start. if you still have the mikuni on it, and you ever want to consider a performance upgrade, get the PWK that came on the 99, or 2000. relatively inexpensive and a good upgrade. for me the clutch saves more time on the trail than anything else though.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:17 AM
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Bringing back an old thread, but this is definitely worth posting to those of you who don't know about this.

One of the best woods mods I have ever done to my 01 CR is a G2 ergonomics throttle tube with the replaceable cams. You can change the eccentric (cam) on the tube to make the first half turn of the throttle move the carb slide much less than the stock one. So, for comparison sake, it would be like twisting the stock throttle tube maybe a 1/4 turn - so you can see how you have more control over the first bit of carb slide movement.

To give you an idea, I don't run a flywheel weight on my bike. FMF fatty pipe and powercore silencer, Vforce reeds - and that's it. Smooth, controllable, and powerful - and I ride some pretty tight woods with 31" of handlebar.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:55 AM
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You have most of the regular items covered, handguards, and skid plate. Where i ride, i have bent a front rotor or 2, so I would recommend a disc guard. I picked up mine here [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

I would also take a look at gearing. It can make a big difference in the tight stuff and really save you from wearing yourself out. A lot of people will gear there bikes down 1 in the front, or two up in the back. You will gain crawling status but still be able to hit a decent speed in the open areas.

Luke
2009 Husky WR250
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:01 AM
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i would be a LOT quicker to add teeth to the back than drop them on the front.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:02 PM
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I really like the Works Connection Pro foot peg wideners that you weld on to the stock pegs makes for happier feet .
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossagp View Post
i would be a LOT quicker to add teeth to the back than drop them on the front.
Ditto. I went to a 12T front sprocket shortly after I bought my bike due to the fact that 1st gear was too fast for the tight woods I was riding. It worked out to be close to the gearing of a KTM 200 EXC.....but not really fitting of the CR. First gear is what I would call my "trouble" gear at that time - stalled on a hill, you could start and climb without much issue. However, since I have freshened the top end, I had to go back to the 13T on the front sprocket (aka counter shaft, as those around here like to call it). I run a 52 on the rear. So far it seems to be a great woods combo. With the new top end and the 12T, 1st through 3rd were pretty much useless....unless you like looking at the sky.
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