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Old 12-20-2016, 06:25 PM
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Default 2001 CR250

     

A decent, but blown up, CR250 followed me home this evening. I got a decent price (I think...) and I'm looking to get it in decent shape and selling it. I'll probably start tear down this weekend. Looking forward to the project and, hopefully, making a little side money off the build. It won't be a restoration level or even a full build. From the initial inspection the connecting rod feels alright, but I'm going to split the cases anyway to check the conditions in there and will probably do the main bearings. The piston was seized and I'm going to clean up the cylinder a bit and see what I'm working with.
QUESTION: Is it a good idea to clean it up with some WD40 and a green scotchbrite pad and measuring variance in ring end gap with an old ring before deciding to send it out for plating?
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:36 PM
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I cleaned up a bit today to make sure everything was there. As of now, only the headstays are missing and the PO is going to check if he has them. The cylinder has some aluminum from the piston and I checked the ring end gap with the rings off my '00 CR250. Interestingly enough, the gap is tight at .010, but consistent through the bore. The Nikasil seems to be intact though. Is there any known methods for cleaning the aluminum off the cylinder wall? A quick search turned up muriatic acid, but I've never done it... can anyone confirm, deny, or offer any advice on using this method?
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:50 PM
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That method will work. Remember it is a caustic acid and go lightly.

Paw Paw
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:59 PM
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Thanks for the input. I'll give it a shot and see if this cylinder is salvageable without replating.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:28 PM
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the gap seems to be too low, best would be to properly measure the bore because by the ring end gap figure you cannot be sure that the cylinder is totally round
it would be nice if you could post up a few pictures of the cylinder plating.

other than that you have big luck on the cylinder, happy build up!
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Old 12-22-2016, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronk View Post
the gap seems to be too low, best would be to properly measure the bore because by the ring end gap figure you cannot be sure that the cylinder is totally round
it would be nice if you could post up a few pictures of the cylinder plating.

other than that you have big luck on the cylinder, happy build up!
Thanks! You're right... maybe I should call around to machine shops to have the cylinder measured and see if they have a ball hone to hit it with.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:07 PM
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It seems I've run into my first major snag: The headstays are missing and they are NLA. Any tips to get going in the right direction?? PO is saying he can't find them
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Old 12-23-2016, 02:03 AM
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Honda Motorcycle Parts 2001 CR250R A CYLINDER HEAD Diagram

www.servicehonda.com

or ebay? make sure to get the 1997-2001 studs (previous engines are shorter)

also check this guy out,
https://titanclassics.com/product/ho...um-head-studs/

maybe if you contact him he might make you a set out of Ti.
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:58 AM
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Going ti sounds more expensive than the level to which I want to build this bike. However, of unable to track them down, it may be my only option. ICOULD put them on my '00 and swap the stockers over to this one.
Does anyone know if the part is exclusive to the '00-'01?? There are a few on ebay, but mostly for older years.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:02 PM
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It's easy to cross reference part numbers on partzilla or motosport, etc to determine interchangeability.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMV View Post
It's easy to cross reference part numbers on partzilla or motosport, etc to determine interchangeability.
It is usually easy. Here's the situation: part #50407-KZ3-J30 shows to be "obsolete" and no other/replacement part number is given. Furthermore, it shows to be only compatible with the 2001 frame. This is interesting because I was pretty sure it was the same as the 2000 except for the port timing on the cylinder. Hence the question: perhaps someone knows if this part is obsolete because it was replaced by a new part number. The catalogs do not show it.
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Old 12-23-2016, 02:20 PM
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excuse me, i misunderstood the headstays with head studs!

ignore my previous post about the Ti link then.
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:58 PM
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Can anyone confirm if the ones off a 2000 will fit? I can pull the ones off mine, but if someone is certain it'll save me the work. There's a 2000 set on ebay right now
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:41 AM
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Seeing as how these parts are pretty rare I stayed up late and took the brackets off my 2000. They do fit; So, I ordered up the set on eBay.
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:15 PM
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I don't want to get too excited yet, but initial teardown of the motor went well. None of the bolts seemed to be overtorqued, the crank is OEM and looks clean with no play, and all the internals look like new. Next up is disassembly of the forks and shock to see what I gotta order for them.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:16 PM
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Shock oil was a bit dirty and it does not seem anyone has ever been in there. Nonetheless, the bushing was intact and it'll go back together with a new bump stop and fresh oil.
The forks were in very good shape. The inner chamber oil looked NEW and the bushings looked great as well. They will go back together with some fresh oil as well.
The only thing missing now is to go through the suspension linkage and swing arm bearings to determine if a clean and regrease is enough or not before placing a final order for parts. 2.5 liters (1.5 for the forks and one for the shock)of fork oil should do it for forks + shock, right?? I know the manual calls for 383ml for the outer and 180ml for the inner on each for, but I don't recall how much I used on my shock...
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:03 AM
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1) about the Shock also check the piston band and oring to be tight and in good shape.

2) about the oil purchase quantities you're right, one for shock and two for the forks.

3) Also check the condition of the forks oil & dust seals once you're there, if they are old they might not seal right.
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronk View Post
1) about the Shock also check the piston band and oring to be tight and in good shape.

2) about the oil purchase quantities you're right, one for shock and two for the forks.

3) Also check the condition of the forks oil & dust seals once you're there, if they are old they might not seal right.
Thanks for the reply to the question and the reminders. Forks and shock will be getting all new seals.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gusco View Post
2.5 liters (1.5 for the forks and one for the shock)of fork oil should do it for forks + shock, right?? I know the manual calls for 383ml for the outer and 180ml for the inner on each for, but I don't recall how much I used on my shock...

There is no inner chamber on a 2001 cr250. 2qt. Will be enough to do both forks and the shock.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:03 PM
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he means the forks, they are twin chamber on the 01 - check parts diagrams.
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