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Old 08-27-2016, 12:00 AM
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Default 2000 CR250 not starting please help

     

I have a 2000 cr250 and it wont start. The last time the bike ran it would not kick start, it would however pop start. Also at that time fuel was pouring out of the carb overflow unless i opened the throttle. At that time i stored the bike for a couple of years.
Fast forward to now. I purchased a rebuild kit and rebuilt he carb. Fuel is no longer pouring out the overflow tube when the fuel is on. I also changed the spark plug. The bike will not start no matter how many times i try to kick start it and i have tried a lot. I pulled the plug wire off the spark plug and used a brand new spark plug i had laying around to test for spark while i pushed the kick starter down with my hand. It was the only way i could do it by myself to check for spark. There is definitely spark as it shocked me and i could see a spark. Not sure if i"m imagining this but the kick starter seems easier to kick then i remember. I'm pretty sure it was more difficult before. Could this be compression related? I haven't tried to pop start it. Last time i had to have a friend pull me with his truck to get enough momentum to actually pop start it. I'm in a residential neighborhood where i probably shouldn't try this. So what do you guys suggest I do, try, buy or not do, try buy.
Thanks for reading this and I would greatly appreciate any and all advice.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:12 AM
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welcome to the forum

avoid pop starting it, might cause damage to the transmission, now start from here

1) do a cylinder compression test
2) check that the carburetor float level is correct
3) check the carburetor jets are all clean and air screw is about 1 1/2 turns out
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Old 08-27-2016, 07:25 AM
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You could also easily check if the ignition timing is set to the correct mark.
Ground plate groove needs be aligned with the bottom rib/mark of the crankcase.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:39 PM
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Default CR250r not starting replies

Thank you for the welcoming me to the forums. Looking forward to being a productive member on ATM

Regarding the replies which by the way are greatly appreciated.

- Per byronk's recommendation I won't pop start my bike

Questions I have regarding these responses:

"1) do a cylinder compression test"
- Do I need an motorcycle (2 stroke) specific compression tester or can i just go to an auto parts store and buy one? If so will and inexpensive compression tester suffice?
2) check that the carburetor float level is correct
- Please advise on proper method of checking float level
3) check the carburetor jets are all clean and air screw is about 1 1/2 turns out
- I will do that

"You could also easily check if the ignition timing is set to the correct mark.
Ground plate groove needs be aligned with the bottom rib/mark of the crankcase.
- Please explain how to do this.

Thanks
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:57 PM
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The very first thing on your plate should be to pick up a service manual for your ride. This will explain a lot and help you.
You may be able to pet a loaner compression tester from an local auto parts place.
Remember that YOUYUBE.com is your friend when it comes to finding videos to show how to do things.

Paw Paw
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:24 PM
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PawPaw i do have a PDF version of the service manual for my bike. Its good but i cant search for specific data. i should just print it that way I have it next to me when I'm working on my bike. As far as the compression tester I'm still not sure if I can use an automotive one or need a motorcycle (2 stroke) specific tester. I will look for videos on the recommended troubleshooting steps people have suggested.
Thanks
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Old 08-27-2016, 04:05 PM
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As I stated, an auto unit will work .
Read and study your manual as it has most of the info you desire. A PDF version is hard to use. Print it out and put in a binder.


Paw Paw
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:05 PM
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Look at ebay they have a few for this model.
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:02 AM
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PawPaw, I'm confused about the ignition timing. According to the service manual "the ignition timing is factory preset and need only be checked when an electrical system component is replaced." Irregardless I will check it. I attached an image of what I believe you are referring to. Please confirm.
I will definitely put the manual in a binder once I print it as I have a feeling I will be referencing it a lot. Thank You
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Ignition System.pdf (464.6 KB, 10 views)
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:33 AM
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I explained it pretty clearly, the manual says the same.
Check if the marks align.
If the ignition is advanced or retarded too much it will give problems.
Your bike is 16 years old and you have problems so you need to check if things work correctly or not and how it is tuned.
Who knows who messed with components, switched out different build years of various parts and such.
Never assume it is ok until you're sure, and even then there can be surprises.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:55 PM
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Default Tested compression only geting 50psi

I tested for compression using an Autozone rental tester. I cant get over 50psi. That sounds real low to me. I'm willing to pull the top end apart however I'm not sure I know what to look for. Should I just order a top end rebuild kit? Any recommendations, wiseco, vertex, stock honda, forged or cast?. Any thoughts on big bore kits? Btw the ignition timing marks did line up.
Thanks
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:41 PM
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50 is very low.
You need the tester you screw in the hole, not the rubber cone one.
How are the reeds?
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:49 PM
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Yes its a tester that you screw into the hole.OEM Compression Tester Gauge Set 27138- Read3Reviews onOEM #27138 I have not pulled the carb off since I rebuilt it. Should I pull it off and inspect the reeds? What should I look for when inspecting the reeds?
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Old 08-30-2016, 01:48 AM
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I started pulling my bike apart and took the cylinder head cover off. There is a noticeable crack in what looks like the piston sleeve and and score marks from the piston. I didn't get a chance to look any further. I also inspected the reeds and they looked ok.
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:26 AM
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Here is a picture of piston/cylinder. I looked up the piston model number and its a forged Wiseco standard bore.
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File Type: pdf Untitled 2.pdf (347.5 KB, 12 views)
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:47 AM
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You can see on the cylinder wall the deposit of the piston material. This is a sign of excess heat. This will also cause the rings to stick in the piston rings lands and cause the lose of compression.
The cylinder needs to be reworked, the ports chamfered and a new piston and rings installed.
How long have you had the bike?
Were you allowing the engine to warm up prior to riding?
When you have a forged piston it requires that the engine be up to operating temp prior to being placed under a load as the piston and cylinder expand at different rates and can cause this to happen.
What does the spark plug look like?
Is your jetting correct?
Do you have air leaks?
Have you done a leak test? I would do one after you have it all back together with the new parts installed, but prior to running the engine.

You have some work ahead of you. You will need your service manual now.

Paw Paw
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:07 AM
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Way too much effort IMO . If you have the $$, but lack the confidence, send the entire engine to Eric Gore.

Eric Gorr Racing - Home

A mate just dropped off Mike Jones's HRC factory team 96 CR250 for me to restore. Looks like I'll be doing some Honda research as well.
A mate of ours was a factory Honda mechanic and has verified the bike is a factory team bike.
Still has the good suspension on it to . Apparently, it goes like **** off a shovel.
He also said I can race it in our Viper series (Classic MX). There's a round coming up in 2 and a 1/2 weeks so I'd better get busy.

Anyway, best of luck with yours.
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:10 PM
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I've owned the bike since 2012.
Yes I was allowing the engine to warm up.
I'm not sure about the jetting from before the carb rebuild.
This is the plug that was in the bike the last time I rode it.
Untitled 1.pdf

Untitled 2.pdf


I will definitely do a leak down test once I rebuild the top end.
Yes I do have some work ahead of me.

As much as I would love to send the engine to a pro I cant exactly afford it. For that matter I cant afford to fix it myself but I will give it a try. Its better to learn on my CR250 than on my Suzuki GSXR

Last edited by cr250randgsxr1000; 08-30-2016 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:51 AM
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from the cylinder/piston picture if i can see correctly your cylinder is not sleeved but it is nikasil! most possibly the plating flake off and caused that damage.
if that is the case you cannot do much either replate or sleeve, like 2strokebloke said send it to Eric Gorr or Millenium Technologies for replating.
at least the piston did not shutter so the bottom end is saved.
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:12 AM
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Understand that you will have to send the cylinder off to have it fixed and replated. If you elect to only bore and sleeve ( not recommended), you will still have to send it off. Each of these will cost the better part of what it would cost to have everything done correctly by a professional.
The cylinder and piston show very obvious signs of over heating and there may be other damage when you dig into it. Remember this is a 16 year old bike and from what you said it has not had any attention to servicing the engine for at least the last 4 years and things do wear and need replacing regularly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgIPh7TAB2M

Paw Paw

Last edited by PawPaw; 08-31-2016 at 05:21 AM.
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