Whats it worth:My 05 YZ 250

[RaptorRacer888]

Originally Posted by Faded

Welcome to ATM, I see you're new here. I hope you can stick around, I'm sure you'll like it.

IF you want smart-*** comments, I can probably help. For the most part everyone is here to lend a hand, but don't cry when we show our human side. It's clear that a few here have no clue what they're talking about while the others are trying to help, so don't get bent out of shape we everyone doesn't tell you what you want to hear. FYI, once in a while (okay, so more that once in a while) you're going to have to weed out the "bad" info...I'll leave it at that.

Trying to keep your spelling errors to a minimum should be a common courtesy on an open forum and IMHO a "respect" thing. Enough said...

I'm going to be stereotypical in more ways than one for a minute here and we'll see how I do. I think that the root of your problems is that you're only 15. I'm not trying to be rude, just realistic. Your previous "jetting experience" probably consisted of some one telling you to change a main jet or two and you doing it. It's okay; you have to start somewhere so lets not worry about it. Also, I don't know many 15-year-olds that are large in stature. My guess is that you might be pushing 150 to 160 L-B's wearing two sets of gear after you pulled them out of the wash machine. You probably haven't set the sag on the rear shock and even if you have then the spring rates (both front and rear) are too stiff vs. your weight and making it difficult to jump. A 250F would be closer to what is ideal, and a Raptor is just too big and too heavy to even care if you're there or not. First make sure your sag is set and while you're doing that see if your spring rates are good for your weight. After you've made it that far then play with the clickers, suspension on MX bikes is adjustable and can be set-up to benefit you.

Given the above I also think that the specific output and possibly the delivery of the power from your 250 could be complicating your jumping...that's just a guess though.

As far as performance problems, IMHO I have never had good luck w/Yama-poop 2R. I don't recommend using it, but I know others that run it regardless and they're the only reason we pack extra plugs when we go riding. Not everyone has had my experience so don't take my word for it, ultimately it's your choice. For me I've had good luck with Amsoil Dominator and Mobil 1 MX2T. Maybe trying a different oil is an option you could explore.

As far as getting the jetting dialed, if all these guys are running stock jetting without issues and close to sea level then it should be close for you unless you live at altitude, but I'll come back to that later. The one thing I see causing problems is the float level. Check it and set it before you change anything else, it effects jetting across the board and is a maintenance item that needs to be periodically checked. Also, it doesn't matter what color your bike is they're almost never set right off the showroom floor. If you live at elevation, start with stock settings (recommended @ sea level) and try dropping one pilot size for every 3000ft above seal level (ASL) and one main jet size every 1500ft ASL. You'll still have to play with the air screw and needle clip position, but that isn't too bad.

There you go, take it for what it's worth...maybe it'll help. No hard feelings intended, sometimes the truth hurts but I'm sure you'll get over soon. Good luck.

Very nice advice, but unfortunatly you were wrong on several assumptions, buts that ok, and it is only expected.

Im very tall for my age, standing at 6'5, and wieghing in at 230 lbs, so there is your first wrong guess.

I did jet my Raptor according to recomendations given to me by another forum, which were very hepfull, and pretty much spot on. Although, it did sputter at 3/4 to full throttle, so I, with out ANY recomendations, went up one size per Main Jet untill the stumble went away. And to date, My Raptor has always ran well, and never had a problem.

I do know how to jet, its just that its not so easy on a foul a plug stroke, I mean, errr, 2 stroke.

Thank you for your advice on oil as well, Im draining my gas tomorrow after school and putting in Amsoil at 40:1.

I did however did not set the sag, or regrease the linkage on my new bike, and thats my project for this weekend. I heard 105mm is what its supposed to be set at.

Satch, sorry for calling you a Nazi, and I knew it was uncalled for, but the only reason I called you that, is cause I thought it was uncalled for to just ramble on about spelling errors in a post. I was wrong, I admit, alright now its all good.

Thanks for all your adnice guys, I am going to keep it, and determined to get it running correctly.

P.S. Also for whoever was commenting about Im not keeping the bike in the powerband, and I just putz around on it, well that would also be a false assumption. I do ride it, and I ride it hard, its just during the first 30 seconds or so of warm up, it will foul plug. Once its beyond that point and warmed up, its good to go.

P.S.S. I called the dealership and they recomended to maybe drop the pilot jet to a 48, but he also said 2 strokes are notorious for fouling plugs during cold weather start ups, he said his CR 125 and always fouled a plug in the winter. He advised that during warmer temperatures it will probally go away.

I dunno if thats a load of BS, but I figure I would throw that in there and see what you guys have to say about it.

P.S.S.S. Its like 30 degrees here.

[Jeff172]

I have been riding in Ohio at indoor tracks all year. When I first start the bike it's been riding in my F150 with a wind chill of who knows at 65 MPH for an hour and a half. Then I start it ouside the building in about four kicks max. The motor couldn't be any colder.

[MotoMan]

Originally Posted by RaptorRacer888

he also said 2 strokes are notorious for fouling plugs during cold weather start ups, he said his CR 125 and always fouled a plug in the winter. He advised that during warmer temperatures it will probally go away.

Hmmm....it seams like someone said that before in this post......hmmmmm....

Jeff...the one thing that you didn't take into consideration is that when you started your bike inside, it isn't sucking in that super cold air, it's sucking in the 40 or 50 degree air from in the building.

[boogieonmyfinger]

Originally Posted by Jeff172

I have been riding in Ohio at indoor tracks all year. When I first start the bike it's been riding in my F150 with a wind chill of who knows at 65 MPH for an hour and a half. Then I start it ouside the building in about four kicks max. The motor couldn't be any colder.

Actually wind chill does not apply to inantimate objects like bikes, cars or trees. Wind chill is the cooling effect of wind on exposed skin. Sorry, just keeping facts straight.

[Jeff172]

I actually started the bike outside to warm it up. They don't want you starting your cold smoking 2 stroke inside.

I did not know that windchill has no effect on objects. Thanks for that info!

[mtk]

Originally Posted by boogieonmyfinge

Actually wind chill does not apply to inantimate objects like bikes, cars or trees. Wind chill is the cooling effect of wind on exposed skin. Sorry, just keeping facts straight.

True, but wizzing down the road does maximize the convective cooling. So if you took it out of a warm garage, by the time you get there the bike will be 100% at ambient temperature.

[RaptorRacer888]

Originally Posted by Faded

That's okay, I might have bee wrong on the others but you're still only 15...

Hey man, I was just saying that Im not what you assumed I was. I was not trying to be a jack *** or anything, I was just correcting what you assumed I was.

I may only be 15, but I bet Im taller, faster, and better than you...

(The last comment was just a joke, dont take it serious or anything and get all pissed at me.)

O yea, and back on subject....

AHHHHH, the stupid amsoil dealer did not have jack **** in stock. He was like" Ohhh, you have a 2 stroke, ummm, I dont think I carry any 2 stroke products, sorry..."

Soo, anyone know a good place to get some Amsoil?

Preferably there Interceptor oil, and preferably at a good price?

[Doom Crew]

Originally Posted by 1989kx125

going to four stroke? why, once your bike is jetted nice it will run like a champ. as for the value id say 4500 for a good price. maybe not sure

I agree, you should be able to get any where from $4500-$5000.

[Satch0922]

[QUOTE=Fadedwhy don't you walk us through your warm-up procedure step-by-step.

.[/QUOTE]


Good idea. I can tell you I have yet to run my choke longer than 15 seconds...regardless of temp. I have ridden the bike when it was 40 degrees up to 70. No issues. I am sure I will need to tweak it when we get into summer though.

[Macho393]

6'5'' and 230 at 15 years of age.....OH MY GOSH!!!!YOUR A FREAKIN BIG FOOT! Thats all I wanted to say......tiny,lol

[Blue 250]

On my 97 CR 250 It takes 2-3 kicks when its above 32. But if its much colder it takes several more kicks. The bike has a BR9ES and it really should have the 8 but after I jetted it I noticed it had 9 so I didnt want to rejet for the hotter plug until summer.Does anyone think its because of the colder plug?

[1989kx125]

matbe if it was a much colder plug, i dont think thats your problem. but there is no harm in trying

[Kenny400]

LMAO @ macho!

I was wondering about RaptorRacer888's warm-up drill as well.

If mine is cold, I use the choke to get it started, and then for maybe 10 seconds after it starts. Then I turn it off. I don't just let the bike sit there and idle at one speed for the 2-3 minutes that it takes to warm up, I will "blip" the throttle occaisionally (every 20-30 secs) to help keep it from loading up. NO HIGH rpms..just little short revs. When I can feel some heat in the radiators, I begin to ride, still taking it easy until I can feel that the bike responds well. Then its no holds barred.

I'll admit I don't know if that is the "standard" warm up procedure or not. Its what the guy I bought it from told me to do....plus it hasn't given me any trouble, or fouled plugs. Am I doing it properly?

[Vintage Dave393]

Your dealer is an idiot. There, I feel better.

Like Faded said, the cold air is denser. Your bike should run LEANER in cold air, not richer. Dealer should have known this. I bet he asks what color the YZ is. At 6'5" and 230, I would pick up the service guy by the collar and ask him ever so gently to fix my bike.

I vote for fixing the float level and turning the choke off as soon as possible.

[Satch0922]

Originally Posted by Vintage Dave393

I vote for fixing the float level and turning the choke off as soon as possible.

Heed this advice from the PROFESSOR!!

[RaptorRacer888]

Originally Posted by Faded

why don't you walk us through your warm-up procedure step-by-step.

1.Grab front brake, and push foward and back about 3 times on the handlebars to shake up what it left in the gas tank, and then if It is low on fuel, I fill it up with 40:1 Yamalube/ 93 pump gas.

2. Turn gas on, and pull up on choke, take bike off stand and get on bike.

3. Kick over once or twice, ussualy, if not always, fires first kick.

4. Once bike is running, I let choke on for about 30 seconds.

5. Take off choke, and apply 1/4 turn of throttle and then let it return then 1/4, then return.

Thats pretty much it, if I make it past step 4 and on to step 5 without fouling a plug then it will not foul a plug for the rest of the day. Its only at that time that it will do it, or after washing the bike it ussualy fouls a plug at step 4 too.

P.S. Should my bike idle by itself, cause my Raptor, without applying choke or gas or anything, it will idle by itself.

Should I increase the idle screw in untill it idles by itself?

[Satch0922]

that carb has issues. Of course the bike should idle by itself. I am now more convinced that the float level is off.

[Kenny400]

Originally Posted by Satch0922

that carb has issues. Of course the bike should idle by itself. I am now more convinced that the float level is off.

Sounds like it to me too. The airscrew (it fine tunes the pilot circuit) and idle adjust might need some attention as well. Do you know where those are and how to adjust them on your carb, RaptorRacer?

The airscrew should be in the general vicinity on your carb as the one in this picture.(courtesy of Faded ) Hang in there though, with a little bit of work you should have your carb straightened out in no time. I'm not the carb expert, and am not really proficient in explaining how to make the adjustments. Faded is the "man" on that stuff. As long as you continue to be nice to him, I'm sure he will try his best to help you though.

Here is a GREAT write up he did on how to set your float:
How To Set Your Motorcycle Carburetor Float Level (more commentary).



I hope he doesn't mind me passing all this along, its great info.

[RaptorRacer888]

Thanks for posting that, and thanks Faded for writing that up.

Im jetting, greasing, and setting the sag on my 250 today.

The next best thing to riding your bike...working on it.

[Satch0922]