New Rider/Old Bike

[Git on it]

Want to get into dirt bikes so just bought a '95 YZ250. It started, but the clutch lever and perch were busted so that's all I know.

What to do before heading out on this thing? I know ZERO about these things. Starting tips, tools, gas/oil, what?

C'mon guys - whaddya say?

Eric:

[Florida 393]

GOI,
Welcome to All Things Moto. You should go through the bike completely. I would inspect every bearing set adn lube the good ones and get Pivot Works replacements for anything dubious. check the air filter, head, cylinder and piston,coolant hoses and the cables. Clean everything good and replace that what seems questionable. A lot of parts are readily available for a '95 YZ so lok good for the best equipment you cna find and get the best price you can.

Check the knowledge base forums here for pointers on rework, set-up and maintenance.

Bill Barnard

[Madman393]

Oh, come on Florida! Give the guy a break! Go through it AFTER you ride the pants off of it, so that you will be grinning the entire time you are working on your machine! Besides, riding it will tell you what needs to be addressed. Go get muddy, then tear it down for maintenance as Bill is exactly right--take care of it and it will reward you in the long run. Have fun with your new bike.

[Git on it]

OK, I'm gonna flog it and see what comes out! I do have some specialty tools - stick welder, sawzall, BMF hammer, and a come-a-long, so there isn't much I can't fix.

Maybe I'll snug up the chain and lube it a bit.......

BUT THAT"S ALL!!!!

Thanks.

Eric

[2003YZ250FRACER]

stick welder, sawzall, BMF hammer, and a come-a-long, so there isn't much I can't fix.

I don't think any of those will help. If you don't know what you are doing then i think that it would be best to buy a manual or have a shop do it untill you become real familiar with the bike.

As for starting tips go; is all ya have to do it pull the choke out and just kick it over while sanpping the throttle at the same time. then warm it up by revving it up really high then dropping the throttle then do that over and over again. (After about 3-4 times you can turn the choke off.)

Before going out on it i would suggest changing the oil and checking it out REAL WELL. If the guy sold it to you with a broken clutch lever and perch then there will proably be other things wrong with it. As for fuel mixture i use Motorex 2 stroke racing premix mixed with premium gasoline (The highest octane at the pump) at a 40:1 ratio. If you don't use that i would suggest Torco GP-7 at a ratio of 40:1.

[2fun]

Originally posted by Git on it
Want to get into dirt bikes so just bought a '95 YZ250. It started, but the clutch lever and perch were busted so that's all I know.

What to do before heading out on this thing? I know ZERO about these things. Starting tips, tools, gas/oil, what?

C'mon guys - whaddya say?

Eric:

Just wanted to say welcome to ATM!

You are in good hands! A lot of these guys have years of experience, and are more than glad to help out.

Good to have you aboard!

[Blitz393]

WTATM!!!

since i am "experienced" in the area of buying used YZ's (just bought a '92 125), before riding, i'd suggest doing the following, in this order:

1) replace the clutch perch/lever.
2) look at the air filter. if it is the stock one, i would replace it, unless it is in immaculate condition. mine had holes in it, and i found sand in my airbox. : even if it is the stock one, clean it before you ride on it.
3) check the radiator fluid, if not new at all, replace with 50/50 mix with water of whatever you can find. (new that is) mine had clumps of coagulated antifreeze in mine, it was straight fluid, no water whatsoever. get enough to fill it up.
4) check the tranny oil, and ask the local dealer how much you should put in. drain the old stuff (if not new) and replace with gear oil at however much is required. that bike is a wet clutch, and if it does not have oil, the clutch will go bye-bye quick, fast, and inna hurry. :
5) make sure the suspension seals are good. a simple check for leaking oil will do this just fine, but it didn't work all that great for me, as i am a leaper and kinda overjumped a landing ramp, landing flat-landed after dropping about 30 feet. (no lie, dunes rock but you HAVE to hit the landing...) and i blew my fork seal. if no oil, that's good. if there is oil, then that's bad. there will always be a small film of oil on the chrome shaft, but if it is dripping with it, not good. if there is a bad seal, take the bike to your dealer and have a price check as to how much it will cost. if too much for your taste, we'll walk you through fixing whatever. i know that much, as Tryce (FFRacing11x) walked me through replacing my fork seals. everyone helps out here, i'll help as much as i can, if you need help just ask.

-Rob

[Blitz393]

i almost forgot, the rule of thumb for chain tension is three fingers right behind the plastic guide strip near the front of the bike. what i mean is, there should be a plastic chain "guide" that the chain rides on instead of on the swingarm, and right behind that, prop three fingers (index, middle, and ring) up, and the chain shouldn't be any shorter or very much higher than that. the reason for the chain being that loose is when the suspension is compressed, the action tightens the chain. if it is too tight, it will stretch/ break the chain, which is not cool.

also, before you ride, check all the nuts, bolts, screws, and fasteners you can to see if they are tight and not missing. :

also, check brake fluid level. just wouldn't be cool to smash the brake lever to find there is no fluid.....:

-Rob

[Git on it]

Thanks all - I'll check the things you suggest and mix the oil at 40:1 (already bought some Mobil 1 based on readings here). Just kidding about my tools. Am looking at having a good time, but don't want to get hurt. Any suggestions on gear? Plan on riding at a ATV/MX park and around on farms.

It has a foam air filter that looks pretty clean, but will clean it anyway and change the oil. Clymer shop manual should be in by Wed. There are some missing bolts I will have to replace. Hope they aren't stripped...... Is there a place to get these special bolts besides the dealer?

Thanks again - REALLY appreciate it!!!

Eric

[Blitz393]

i don't know about the fasteners, i just hunted around my garage until i found a bolt with the correct diameter and thread count. if the bolt is too long, just whack it off with a hacksaw, then file the burrs off.

as for gear, the two things you HAVE to have is a helmet and boots, along with longsleeve shirt and long pants. 2nd is a chest protector, don't want you busting a few ribs or something. :

next, get some riding gloves, i like the fox stuff, really comfortable. i am running the solo gloves. then, get some long pants, (jeans will suffice, but if you have the $$ get some actual riding pants.) next, wear longsleeve shirts, a walmart MX jersey is just fine, but again if you have the $$ get the real stuff, although i can't imagine much difference. goggles for your eyes, and you're set!

-Rob

[Rockey]

The Mobil 1 MX2T is good stuff, stick to that at 32:1. Also, I would change the gear oil with some quality synthetic lube.

[Florida 393]

GOI,
You need to be sure you oil the air filter after you clean it using filter oil. Squeeze the excess oil out and let it sit to air dry. the filter oil has a much higher tack than a lubricating oil so it will catch more dirt.

Bill

[Git on it]

Got to run the beast-monster YZ250 on a buddy's farm yesterday. He has a lot of steep hills through the woods with rocks & mud, and also some low areas that are 60' long with 1 foot deep mud. Also had some pastures that were level and fun to play on. For a 1st time rider, I thought it was pretty challenging, but I survived without dropping it once! Sure I stalled it when I was bogged in the mud, and on steep hills, but I learned a lot in 3 hours!

This is a blast, I can see why you can get hooked!

It seemed to smoke excessively and wouldn't idle when warm, but I think it could be from the old gas. After today I'll drain & change the gas/oil, clean & oil the filter, and give it a good once-over. The shop manual answered a lot of Q's.

Thanks again!!!


Eric

[Blitz393]

if it won't idle while warm, then join the club. the ONLY two-strokes that i have seen idle is the banshee and blaster, but the blaster kept on trying to die on me when i traded the guy for a while. mine still needs adjusting, but i can't even leave it alone long enough to buckle my helmet, i have to have it on when i start it. then i give it a handful of gas and while it is throttling down, i snap on my goggles. the off-idle might be a clogged Pilot jet, or even the gas might have turned to Varnish, if left for a REALLY long time.

now, can't you see why we are so addicted?

does it still have the pink seat in '95? or did they change to blue yet? i can't remember, but mine was pink and white when i got it, but since then i have invested in a black CEET gripper seat cover.

-Rob

[Git on it]

Went for ANOTHER ride today, even though I was sore - MORE sore now, but at least I took a camera this time. I have a couple of funny pics if anyone is interested.

The arch of my foot is tore up, and the top of my foot banged into the footpeg a few too many times way too hard. Is this the hazards of a kickstarter, or am I doing something wrong?

Also, when changing the oil, it calls for 750ml, I was only able to put in 300ml!! What's up with that?

Thanks again!!!

Eric

[Florida 393]

Eric,
It sounds like you are hooked on dirt bikes now. Welcome to the club.

Are you wearing riding boote or work boots? They help trememdously. the kick start lever may be bent some too, or replaced with the wrong one. Cheak on that.

Good luck and keep on posting to keep us updated.

Bill

[Git on it]

I was wearing roadrace MC boots, and switched to army surplus paratrooper boots which have a much heavier duty sole.

Great point about the kickstart lever, I'll check into that. There is a hack mark in it where it has been slamming into the footpeg.

Any ideas on the oil??:

Thanks!!

Eric

[Florida 393]

Eric,
The first thing I would look at is the amount being drained out. it sounds like the gear box was not completely empty. I would also look to see if the side cover for the clutch is full of sludge from old oil adn contaminates. You would have to drain the gear box down and pul the clutch side cover off. Get a new gasket to replace the old one when you do.

As to the gear box oil, A lot of argument occurs here and onother sites about automotive oils and motorcycle clutches / gear boxes. I made a personal decision based on the oil industry studies adn my experience to use motorcycle specific lubrucants, especially gear box oil. The automotive oils are not designed with a wet clutch inmind. They are engine lubricants. Especialy in a two-stroke engine the oil is not performing as an engine oil at all. I prefer the Bel-Ray or Yamalube products. John uses the Hondalone lubricants in his CR 125R. This is something you have to work out your self. Let us know how your riding and wrenching progresses adn ask any questions you may need. We are here to try and help you.

Bill

[Florida 393]

What is going on with the scoot? Please keep us posted!

Bill

[Git on it]

Waiting on the clutch cable - I had 3/8" of bare cable sticking out of the adjuster after the adjustment was used up. Can the cable stretch that much? Inspected the clutch frictions and steels, all within spec. Since the clutch guts are out/apart, is there any reason to pull off the clutch hub - for inspection purposes or ??

Thanks!