2005 YZ250 turning options

[NoNumber]

I am looking to improve cornering on my 2005 YZ250, which tends to push and wants to run wide. I reset my sag to 100mm from 105mm, and that improved things. I then raised the forks 2mm, and that also made things better, but it still seemed like more was needed. I raised the forks to 5mm, and the bike turned almost perfect, but I got bad headshake. Now I am running 3mm, and there is no headshake, but the turning is not quite where I want it.

What else can I do? What about offset triple clamps? I would love to get the turning I got with the raised 5mm forks without the headshake.

[Macho393]

scotts steering stablizer or different triple clamps like you said.

[Florida 393]

NoNumber,
First off, welcome to ATM I hope you enjoy the site. Please come round often .

I'll offer this for your 250, I found the 2002 YZ 426 extremely sensitive to front tire pressure and track conditions. Work with different P.S.I. settings. If that doesn't help you might well try a shallower offset triple clamp however, If headshake is a problem a shorter wheelbase isn't the solution to me. I'd hope Faded, Satch or OSSAGP see this and put in with their technical input. These guys and some others here kknow there stuff and can usually offer a solution that works . I don't know if Storm of Kouba makes linkages or dog bones for the YZ line. A lot of CRF owners on early CRF 450R bikes used these varied length linkage parts to set up their handling preferences. Or try Mark's solution above, he has experience with the steering stabilizers.

Good luck with what you choose to do and please keep us posted on what you find out, both positive and negative.

Bill

[Macho393]

I forgot about tire pressure. That helps alot on my bike. I once ran a 2 hour race with 22 pounds in my front tire. Da pain!

[NoNumber]

Florida 393,

Tire pressure is a good suggestion, and I forgot to mention that I did try that. Stock recommended pressure is 15psi, and I tried 12psi. It does make the bike turn a little better, but I flatted on the front. Since I have never flatted before, I suspect that 12psi was too little pressure. I suppose I could try a smaller increment, say 14psi, but my guess is that that would be too little to make a difference.

[Macho393]

I run between 12 and 14 in the woods. What year bike and how are the wheel bearings?

[NoNumber]

Originally Posted by machoman393

I run between 12 and 14 in the woods. What year bike and how are the wheel bearings?

2005, and as far as I can tell, the bearings are in good shape. I'm riding prepped motocross tracks. From your experience, maybe my flat was a coincidence. I might try lower pressure again with my current fork height setting. The two together might do the trick.

[Vintage Dave393]

Try increasing the rebound on your forks by a couple of clicks, decreasing the compression by a couple of clicks. This will help the forks not release the energy stored when you brake into the turn. That release of energy will cause the forks to extend and cause a push.

You can also try reducing the rebound in the rear and that will put more weight on the front wheel.

Lots of variables to play with. Keep experimenting, try only one thing at a time and see what difference it makes.

[Satch0922]

are you still running the stock 739 ? Get rid of it ......

Not sure what type of riding you do , your skill level or how much you weigh....but here is a set up that works flawlessly for a slow old man like me that rides on nicely groomed loaming tracks 90% of the time...

1. Forks are moved up to the first line on just below the fork cap.....no head shake. The Yamahas have a lot of room for adjustment before headshake ever becomes a problem.

2. set your sag at 100mm

3. DITCH THE 739......(I never rode my 250 with the 739s on it....the 739 is an guaranteed trip to the ER.....756s got mounted as soon as the bike came out of the crate.)

4. I run 13psi in the front tire...

5. Make sure you have the suspension set up properly for your skill/weight/riding. If the forks are too stiff and riding too high in the stroke, it will hamper turning.

The things listed above are not unique to the Yamaha YZ250....they are things that affect the turning on any bike.

[NoNumber]

Yes, I'm still running the stock 739. I'll think about the 756. I ran a 756 on the rear, but the tire wear rate was incredibly high, but that should not be a problem on the front.

Your experience with 13psi reinforces the prior tire pressure advice, so I must have just had bad luck with the puncture at the lower pressure. I will definitely give the lower pressure another try.

I'm 178lb with stock springs and valving. I have experimented a lot with all the clickers to get them just right. I run compression on the forks a hair soft, and I do bottom when I screw up big jumps. I would have to say I am an intermediate rider as there are always plenty of guys way faster than me, but I do my share of passing.

Based on all the comments and those from Vintage Dave, I will also do some more experimenting with clickers. All of my prior experimenting was for jumps and whoops.

[Florida 393]

NoNumber,
On my 426 I usually run 13 P.S.I. in front and 12-14 P.S.I. in the rear depending on track conditions. No problems there with flats. I agree with Dave and Satch on settings. Dave pointed out to only change one setting at a time while experimenting, follow this to the letter or risk getting totally confused and not knowing what you did to cause the new problems. Spend a day just doing the settings.

I think the springs may need to be stiffer for the reasons stated above in the posts. I upped front and rear spring stiffness on the 426 since I'm 6'-1" and 195 lbs.and I have been as heavy as 250 lbs. a year ago. The stiffer springs will keep the suspension higher in the stroke and as Dave said hold energy longer when cornering. I can use more different clicker settings with the stiffer springs to adapt to track and weather conditions. I look at suspension settings like jetting, you cannot have a one size fits all attitude, the jetting and suspension change with track conditions just as weather conditions and altitude change jetting requirements. I had to do settings all over when I returned form the surgeries and lost so much weight. We also started using a new track so the needs changed there.

I run either a 773 or 756 tire depending on track conditions. I recommend them over the 739 stock tire. I had a 739FAJ on front stock and the washout was severe in all conditions. I'd look at the new tire from Dunlop with the 900 series designation, I believe it is a 952. Same basic knob pattern as the 756 but a more durable compound. Some western MX and desert riders really like this tire front and rear because of the grip charcteristics of the 756 and the wear of the old K series Dunlop tires. DPW has one of these tires on his new YZ 450F and it is mentioned in specific in Satch's ride report in the 4 stroke forums.

One last point I have thought of and it is something only the specific rider can decide to do. How far up on the seat are you moving when going into corners? I foound that the 426 responds to this. Too far and you weight the front tire and alter the geometry by pushing down the front and unweighting the front. Just a thought to try. Sorry this ran long.

Good luck and keep us up to date on what you find out.

Bill

[yzernie]

What is your skill level?? Remember that everyone's riding style is a bit different and that can change how a bike is set up.

I ride 40+ intermediate and 50+ expert. I run 95mm sag on my YZ's and the forks slid up to the first line below the caps. You and I are about the same weight and even with stock springs I found this helped alot. I do find that if I do not squeeze the tank with my knees in the fast sections of the track I'll get a tad of headshake.

Replacing of the 739 will help alot also. I, like Satch, Bill and many others here, I never have any more time on that front tire than it touching the ground as I uncrate and assemble the bike.

In all honesty, what I have found works the best if small changes at a time and keep playing with the settings until I find the ones I like.

[teknition1]

You can change all the settings you want and tires too .....add oil...subtract oil...run lower tire pressure...higher tire pressure....but to put it in a nut shell......the front fork on the 05 YZ250 just blows......yes , I said it....get over it ...its a piece of crap as far as Im concerned....just junk...dont care who's name is on it, kayaba, showa-2....whatever.
This front shock is harsh....been there ...done that ...Im waiting till the suspension guru's get it all figured out then im goin in for a revalve or whatever it takes to tame it.
I know there will be lots of people on here that disagree but im the same weight and class category as NoNumber and I've tried it all to tame this damn thing...it just don't work.
This fork is stiff as a brick....try this on youre bike....push down on the back of the seat with one hand....moves nice an smooth eh??...now push down on the cross bar on the handle bars with one hand....doesnt budge an inch does it??
Go ahead, prove me wrong....tell me how to make the front of this bike as smooth as the back.
Tek

[Budlite]

send them to Bob Blose.....

[Satch0922]

Originally Posted by teknition1

You can change all the settings you want and tires too .....add oil...subtract oil...run lower tire pressure...higher tire pressure....but to put it in a nut shell......the front fork on the 05 YZ250 just blows......yes , I said it....get over it ...its a piece of crap now push down on the cross bar on the handle bars with one hand....doesnt budge an inch does it??
Go ahead, prove me wrong....tell me how to make the front of this bike as smooth as the back.
Tek

You have something wrong with your forks. After break -in I had to go to stiffer springs. I also changed the oil and revalved them. Not sure what suspension guru's your waiting on......call MX Tech..they can get like you want it.

[yzernie]

I have to agree with Satch that you may have some issues with your forks. I have an 04 YZ250 and the stock 05 forks are MUCH better than the stock 04's...and they were very good. As a matter of fact, I like the 05 stockers as much as I like my 04 revalved forks.

[teknition1]

Thanks for the replies guys.
My forks were like this right from the initial purchase of the bike. I didnt ride it much this summer 'cause Im building a garage and redoing the basement and riding time was pretty limited so I havent sent them away for a revalve yet. I'll probably get around to sending them out over the winter, garage is almost finished now so I'll have a nice shop to tear the bike down.
Tek

[Vintage Dave393]

Sounds like they are binding to me. Go to the MX Tech site, look in the downloads section, and follow the instructions for installing forks or the front wheel. It will help you make sure that the forks are not working against each other.

[NoNumber]

My forks were incredibly stiff for probably about 10 hours of riding time after I bought the bike new. The thing handled like a tank. After they broke in, they were fine. Then, I changed the oil, and wow, they were incredible. The oil looked like transmission oil with tons of aluminum flakes. New oil is about as thick as water, and the oil I took out was about 10W30 consistency.

After about another 20 hours, I changed the oil again along with the seals, sliders, and metal, and again the performance dramatically improved for a few hours. The oil was cleaner, but still much thicker than new oil. The dropoff has been much less noticable this time, so I think all the gunk is done wearing down.

My impression is that these forks love super clean oil. With new oil, my forks are like magic.

Now, if I can just get the turning solved ...

[brcrk]

I have a suggestion....


THROW THOSE STOCK FORKS IN THE TRASH!!!!!!!!!!!


I HATE THEM!!!!!


The best thing you can do is call Factory Connection, or Pro Circuit and get the forks valved in for your weight and riding style. It may cost you 700 - 1000 bucks but it is well worth it.

BTW..........WELCOME to ATM. Everyone here is here to offer help of any kind if at all possible.

Tim