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Old 02-28-2009, 05:12 PM
Novice Class
Join Date: Aug 2008
Last Online: 11-09-2009 10:14 AM
Location: Michigan
Posts: 70
Default Don't be a Dumb***, Engine Removal Guidelines (CR250)


Just as the title describes it, don't fool yourself, you will need to follow these rules with as much discipline as possible. Otherwise, you will be labeled as a "BadaPwned".


Guideline 1: Do not invite the female race into the garage while the engine removal is being attempted.

Reason: The words that will be produced from that cavity on your face called a mouth will be too obscene for even the human race to comprehend. Obscene enough to offend the neighbors across the street.

Guideline 2: Removing a Banshee motor and a CR250 motor are not one in the same. Do not compare the two.

Reason: Honda has made it obvious they do not like extra space in their frames. This is good for racers, bad for your normal tooling around guy.

Guideline 3: Do not attempt to remove the motor with the shift lever, rear break lever, kick starter, swingarm, rear subframe, rear shock, rear break lines etc. still attached.

Reason: All of these components come off with a minuscule amount of work and maybe a total of 8 bolts, save yourself the hassle. Not to mention, its probably impossible to remove the motor without removing these items.

Guideline 4: Do not attempt to remove the carburetor before all the items in Guideline 3 above have been removed.

Reason: Because it will take two 200lb full grown men to remove that retardely hard to get at device.

Guideline 5: Please keep in mind once everything in Guideline 3 is removed, the back end of the bike becomes extremely light. Please do not wobble the bike with great force without holding it.

Reason: Your bike will fall off your stand and crash on top of your light, breaking the bulb. Not to mention its just not fun picking it back up, considering its now a 120lb unicycle.

Guideline 6: Do not attempt to remove the motor with only taking the lowest coolant line off and coming to the conclusion "its probably all out".

Reason: The engines holds quite a bit of coolant. Once you start moving the engine around trying to get it out, the coolant will splash all over your cloths, tools and your floor. Simply take out the drain plug for the coolant system and save yourself from dealing with a wet green mess.

Guideline 7: ****MOST IMPORTANT GUIDELINE**** Do not forget to drain the transmission oil before removing the motor.

Reason 1: In a normal garage, there is no obvious way to hold the motor while trying to drain the trans.

Reason 2: Once you come to the conclusion that propping up one side of the motor on a milk crate and holding the other end is your best idea, think again. After holding that motor up for 5 plus minutes, it will begin to get heavy and you will soon start thinking "this is just dumb".

Reason 3: While your thinking "this is just dumb", you will loose your concentration and the side of the motor that was propped up by the milk crate will slip off due to the fact that everything is covered in oil & coolant. Once the motor slips off the milk crate, gravity will do the job it was intended for, pull that motor to the ground with great force.

As the engine lands in your plastic tub that was collecting the trans fluid, you will be thinking, "no big deal", oil wont hurt anything on the motor. This is true, so you figure, "well, I will just pick the motor back up, put the plug back in and set the motor on milk crate". At this point, you feel like a genius, everything worked out.

Except at this point, you now believe you must have stepped in your plastic tub containing the trans oil. As you begin to ponder "wtf", You will see that the plastic tub you were collecting the oil in was a rigid container at one time. It was rigid up until the point in time you dropped your engine on it and put a crack through entire length of the bottom of the container, draining trans oil all over your floor. sweet.

After everything has been thoroughly examined and accomplished that was stated above, theoretically you are now ready to package up the motor and send it to Eric Gorr for a big bore kit.

As you may have figured out by now, I, BadaPwned has had first hand experience with everything stated above. If you feel the need to try any of my non-recommended methods stated above, you will be labeled as a "BadaPwned".


Last edited by BadaPwned; 02-28-2009 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:08 PM
mrcribbs's Avatar
Intermediate Class
Join Date: Nov 2008
Last Online: 02-20-2018 06:45 AM
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 187

LMAO... I thought the same things taking the motor out of my '96 a few weeks ago.

My favorite thought during my removal was. "Why the heck do I have to remove the swingarm just to lift the motor out..."

Glad I'm not the only one!

Last edited by crfjedi393; 03-02-2009 at 12:20 AM. Reason: language
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:32 PM
D3luxe's Avatar
Intermediate Class
Join Date: Jan 2008
Last Online: 10-01-2014 09:12 AM
Location: Michigan
Posts: 285

Very funny!
My favorite was the 120lb unicycle, it made me crack up.

Nice guidelines
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:08 AM
kornica's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Last Online: 05-25-2009 06:20 PM
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 76

I am gonna copy and paste all this and have it as a check list in my basement!! Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:06 AM
Beginner Class
Join Date: Dec 2008
Last Online: 04-04-2015 07:14 AM
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 41

I gotta say it wasnt so bad for me following the "service manual". The swingarm bolt was a serious pain but other than that everything else was no prob.
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:36 AM
MotoMan's Avatar
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Last Online: 03-22-2017 12:24 PM
Location: Howe, Indiana
Posts: 26,049

Lol, I am willing to bet that everyone of us can relate to at least one thing on that list.

Very funny.
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