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  #11  
Old 10-29-2015, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dogger315 View Post
That "e" PWK has an appreciably shorter body than the standard PWK AS. IMO, if you stick with the "e" you're going to have to space the boot or the carb...

For the sake of expediency, I would ditch the "e" in favor of a conventional PWK...
I am determined to use the e-PWK and I'm stubborn so I'll be keeping the carb. The good news is it won't take much to make it work. The '99 boot showed up yesterday and at least a half inch longer than the '00 boot I had on there. I didn't have time to really measure or take photos but it's long enough that it's going to work, even with the stock reed cage and no spacer.

I did have a 3/8 aluminum reed block spacer made as a backup plan but there won't be a need for that now. Now I just need to re-reassemble the air box and I'm one step closer to being done. I'll probably still pick up that '97 air boot for future projects, just not right now.
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2015, 09:48 PM
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That was an easy fix. Sounds like the gen 3 airbox is situated closer to the carb
than the gen 4.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2015, 12:37 AM
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I have done a 01 cr250 conversion into a crf250 2010 frame, so if you've got any more questions i could possibly help, i cant post a pic at the moment because i havent posted enough!

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 AM ----------

Heres a pic of it, 2001 engine, new rebuild, cylinder, crank etc, i vapour blasted the motor ( well worth the cost) pro circuit "A kit" suspension, list goes on. For the intake boot i actually used a 1997 kx250 one, perfect length, had do a bit of modifying, it now runs a kx250 airfilter

Last edited by FactoryRB; 12-01-2015 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FactoryRB View Post
I have done a 01 cr250 conversion into a crf250 2010 frame, so if you've got any more questions i could possibly help, i cant post a pic at the moment because i havent posted enough!

---------- Post added at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 AM ----------

Heres a pic of it, 2001 engine, new rebuild, cylinder, crank etc, i vapour blasted the motor ( well worth the cost) pro circuit "A kit" suspension, list goes on. For the intake boot i actually used a 1997 kx250 one, perfect length, had do a bit of modifying, it now runs a kx250 airfilter
That bike looks amazing, nice work!
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2015, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FactoryRB View Post
I have done a 01 cr250 conversion into a crf250 2010 frame...
Need...more...pics!
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2016, 12:26 PM
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It has been a long time since my last post. It turns out that raising two small kids and rebuilding the house take up most of my time.

The build is slowly going forward. I now have a engine to put in the frame. It is not complete but enough to start modify the frame. I got a good deal on a 2000 lower end, and I bought a new 2001 cylinder.
I also got a new Kehin PWK AS carb, and a new 1998 airboot. I don't have a reed valve yet, so I can't do anything with airbox mod yet.

I have ordered a new PC Works pipe, and silencer, but the supplier was sold out so will take up to 5 weeks to get here.






I used a swingarm spacer from a 2006 CR250 on the left side of the engine to aligne the engine. (part nr:52141-KZ3-J40). On the right side I used a spacer from my 2009 CRF450.


Test fitting swingarm and subframe


Looks like I have to modify the brake pedal as well. Is it easy to bend these pedals or do they break easy?


Checking clearance with the ''Y''. Had to grind alittle on some of the welds on the right radiator and the ''Y''. I also added some spacers to the lower mounting bolt on the right radiator to push it out from the frame to get some clearance










Extending the framerails.


Should be enough clearance to mount the pipe




I bought the headstay from CP500. I was planing on using the OEM CR250 headstay brackets that are S-shape, but it didnt fit. So I had to fab up some.
Does anyone know why the OEM's are S-shaped?


Next on the to do list is making the lower and front engine mounts.
I won't weld anyting in place before I get all the parts so I can check that everyting fits.

If anyone have a Vortex X10 CDI for a 2001 CR250 lying around, give me a heads up. Can't seem to find that thing
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2016, 05:22 PM
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If you need to fill the gap between the reeds and the air box boot. The V-Force reed valve takes up more room than the Rad Valve.
The Rad valve will give you more space.

I had to gain space on my Suzuki AF build. The Rad valve gave me more space to fit the Carby.
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2016, 09:30 AM
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The brake pedal off a CR250 has more of a bend to it, but I'm not sure it'll be enough in your case. The other alternative is to use the brake pedal off a 450X, it has a big bend in it. I can try and get pics of the three side-by-side tonight for you.
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2016, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faded View Post
The brake pedal off a CR250 has more of a bend to it, but I'm not sure it'll be enough in your case. The other alternative is to use the brake pedal off a 450X, it has a big bend in it. I can try and get pics of the three side-by-side tonight for you.

That would be great

---------- Post added at 07:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 stroke bloke View Post
If you need to fill the gap between the reeds and the air box boot. The V-Force reed valve takes up more room than the Rad Valve.
The Rad valve will give you more space.

I had to gain space on my Suzuki AF build. The Rad valve gave me more space to fit the Carby.
Thanks, didn't know that.

Does anyone know if the intake manifold has different length on 2001 and 2000? The partnumber are different... what is the difference?
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2016, 06:11 PM
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Looks like some good progress on your build. How many wheel spacer combos
did you go through before you found a winner? I don't know if it's the angle,
but your rear sprocket looks really close to the swingarm in that chain
alignment picture.

Do not try to bend that brake pedal cold. You're going to have to heat it with
something like a map gas (low heat), torch then bend it twice. One bend
close to the pivot and another bend to bring the rest of the lever parallel to
the clutch cover. It will be interesting to see if you can find an existing brake
pedal that will clear the larger CR250 clutch cover and still work with the CRF
style pivot bolt. That strategy didn't pan out for me and the CRF250 frame,
I had to modify a CRF250 pedal. The OE head stays are "S" shaped because
the frame mount is offset from the head mount on any Honda with a CR250
engine.

Looking forward to your next update.
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