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Old 05-07-2016, 01:34 PM
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Default CR500 Steelie update turned full restoration

     

Well, I'd have thought I would have learned my lesson after my 93 CR250 restore but apparently not. After realizing a couple weeks ago that buying Dogger's CR500 wasn't in my budget I decided I'd start looking for a steelie in decent shape that I could just update a little and then go have a some fun.

I found a real gem on craigslist. The ad stated that the motor was recently rebuilt and had less than 20 hours on it. They also said the bike needed NO work. Well...I guess that's a matter of opinion. How does a person ride a bike in this condition and think it's ok?? 3 big lessons this thing has taught me: 1. Any references to paddle tires in the ad is a bad sign. 2. If someone claims work has been performed, ask for receipts. 3. Whatever you think it will cost to restore these older bikes, just double it and then add a couple thousand bucks....haha.

Anyway, the deal is done and I've already started ordering parts which of course is a ridiculously huge list. I've got stuff on the way to completely rebuild the motor with everything that is worn or borderline. This included a new cylinder and wiseco piston. This one was bored 2mm over already, so yeah, I guess you could say it's had some work done.

I've never owned a 500 before so I'd love some feedback as to what you guys have done to yours to make them fun to ride. I'd love to go to the level dogger did but I think I'd better draw the line somewhere

I'm planning on keeping it as close to OEM as possible other than some minor performance upgrades like maybe a PWK and Vforce. The crank is still usable but I'm debating on sending it to crank works for balancing. Does it really make that big of difference? The end goal is to use the bike with a Timbersled in the winter and then more open trail riding in the summer.

I'm still trying to decide on which year of plastics/graphics to go with too. The bike is a 97 so I'm leaning toward maybe a McGrath 95 style? Feel free to post some pics of anything cool you've seen.




No mud guard is probably not a good sign


When started the bike up the pipe was rattling like crazy, maybe this is why.


"Aftermarket" engine mount bolts and plenty of sandy spooge on the front of the cylinder.



Up until I saw this I still just figured the previous owner just let bolts rattle loose. Once I pulled the pipe off and saw this I knew my budget just doubled.


Inside the air boot. Oh and BTW the filter had no oil on it.


The piston actually looked fairly new other than the exhaust side looking like this and the fact it was a 91mm. Any ideas what would cause this on the exhaust side? I would have figured the intake would be bad with all the sand.


Attention to detail.


That's all for now. I'll post some more after I spend some more money

Last edited by MtBiker14; 05-07-2016 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:09 PM
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JMV JMV is offline
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Looks like you have your work cut out for you there. I'd say the balancing is worth the money. Also, doing a fork conversion is pretty easy and worth the effort as well. Guess it just depends on your budget. I've been getting the cylinders plated to maintain the bore size so the balance doesn't get thrown off with a bore later. They can plate right onto the sleeve. I guess it's not as durable as plating straight onto aluminum but having an aluminum sleeve pressed in is pretty expensive.
Edit: Allot of people talk about tossing the PJ carb for a PWK. I'd say if it's running fine with the PJ, I'd spend that $200 elsewhere. I have 2 running on PJ's and 2 running on PWKs and I can't honestly say that the PJ carbed bikes run significantly worse and vice versa.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:51 AM
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Should be a fun project. I would get the crank balanced for sure, makes a noticeable difference. I would love to see a McGrath 500! That would be awesome. Looking forward to following this as mine gets closer to being completed.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the input guys. JMV, I had talked to millennium about plating the stock cylinder but I wasn't sure how much it would help the durability. Good to hear you have some experience with it. Sounds like a good idea. Same with the balancing. Is crankworks still a good place to send the crank?

As for the carb, maybe I'll keep the PJ for now and see how it runs since its an easy thing to change later. Would you mind posting your jetting at some point so I have some baseline?

Bulldog, I can't wait to see your bike completed. All those teaser pics are killing me ;P

Last edited by MtBiker14; 05-09-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:46 AM
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The jetting for my PJs will be different because they are older, 85 and 87. FMF has good starting points on their website you can use.
Rider Support - Jetting Center - FMF Racing
I have had all my stuff done at crankworks. I haven't had great experiences the last few times though, having to send stuff back and very long lead times. A few guys have mentioned using this place:
Home
But I don't have any experience with them. Happy to help with any other questions. I've done a few of these now.
JMV
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:58 AM
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That exhaust side scuffing is probably because the bridge in the cylinder wasn't relieved properly.
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:39 PM
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I had my Cylinder done at Millenium per Doggers suggestion and it came out great.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:16 PM
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A couple more surprises when I was cleaning the cases today. Both the countershaft and shift drum bearings in the right side case pushed out by hand relatively easily. All the others needed heat to come out.

I'm not quite sure what to make of this. Both the left countershaft and main shaft bearing seats are chewed up a bit. Maybe from sand or vibration, I'm not really sure.




At this point, I'm a little nervous about using these cases as the engine has obviously had some abuse. I think I could clean up the left bearing seats and use a punch and a little jb weld to keep the right side bearings tight but I'm curious to know what you guys think. Maybe they'll be fine, maybe they won't.

Since the Left case is NLA, I'll have to resort to ebay which of course is a coin flip at best for finding anything in better condition.
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:53 AM
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I would knurl the inside with a punch and use high temp silicone instead of jb weld. You would be surprised at the holding power of the silicone. Plus, it's easier to clean off than the jb weld.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:52 AM
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I would just use some of the green colored Lock-Tite to help keep the bearings in place, it's designed specifically for that purpose.
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