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  #41  
Old 05-19-2015, 08:48 PM
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I sold the old Cylinder to some guy in canada via ebay,..but didn't notice anything. I didn't readily notice any build up in the head either. But I will continue to pick things apart as I get into it.

Dogger I have a whole Microsoft word doc of your suggestions and I've added this series of suggestions to it. Will do the motor procedure to ensure proper assembly. You know what has crazy acidity? "PH down" it is a chemical used for fish tanks to lower Ph quickly,...though a drop will burn a hole in your clothing,. make marks as it hits wood floors etc.... Ill use vin or some of that to get things rolling.

I just did a google search of the city I got the bike from and found this....
Seems like a lot in the water. in NYC the PPM is 54.

Q: What is the hardness of the water that is supplied to our house?

A: The typical water hardness in Lake Havasu City's water supply is 325 parts per million (ppm). This question is usually asked when someone has a new water softener and in reality, the total dissolved solid concentration is important. The total dissolved solid concentration ranges between 700 and 800 ppm. Water softeners in the city are usually set at 19-20 grains.
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  #42  
Old 06-14-2015, 09:34 PM
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I didnt notice a wrist pin bearing in my wiseco piston kit...do I need the wiseco brand replacement or should I buy the OEM version...????
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  #43  
Old 06-15-2015, 06:04 AM
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Probably not the most technical person to throw advice out there, but I've used both wiseco and oem wrist pin bearings with wiseco pistons.
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  #44  
Old 07-06-2015, 10:50 AM
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I got the Wiseco bearing... Tore the engine apart further.. No further signs of Corrosion in the water flow area.... [IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------

Rod that goes through the clutch basket and so on seems worn at one end...

[IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 09:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:45 AM ----------

How do you guys know when to replace the clutch basket due to wear....mine seems minimal. Does anyone hit it with a scotch brite or use any other technique to "freshen" it up?

[IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:46 AM ----------

[IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 09:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 AM ----------

I hit the cases with a rubber mallot and it split but I need the puller to get it apart nicely...I'll probably just have my local shop do it. Then I can get to the end of things and start rebuilding back up from the start.
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  #45  
Old 07-06-2015, 11:24 AM
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Clutch basket and hub look OK, it's normal to have some marking there but you don't want deep grooves that will keep the clutch from disengaging. Push rod is definitely worn beyond limits!
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  #46  
Old 07-06-2015, 01:10 PM
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Yea its more a light scuff than a deep notch on the basket. Yea the push rod,...the previous owner must have been a heavy clutcher.
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  #47  
Old 07-07-2015, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Yea its more a light scuff than a deep notch on the basket. Yea the push rod,...the previous owner must have been a heavy clutcher.
No, he was a "keep the clutch lever pulled in instead of shifting to neutral" and wore out the engagement shaft. If he was a heavy clutch user, the basket would be notched up, especially with the cheap OE cast basket.

I don't use OE baskets because I do use the clutch every time I come out of a corner, even on a 500. A stock basket would last me about one weekend worth of motos. The CR500 is a tough call because there are no billet pieces available except for the basket unless you do the CR250 clutch conversion. Depending on what kind of riding you do, that conversion may or may not be worth the cost and time. As far as checking for wear, load a new clutch plate in the assembled basket. There should be very minimal clearance on either side. If there is a gap, somebody has already "touched up" the basket to remove notching and the basket will snatch on engagement and wear out even faster.

One word of advice, if you stick with the OE clutch, don't pack it with aftermarket Kevlar plates. They will eat up the soft castings in no time, stick with OE Honda plates.
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  #48  
Old 07-07-2015, 06:06 PM
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I have a new EBC clutch plate kit with springs and plates etc sitting in my parts box back at the build. You could prob bet good money that its kevlar... Ill have to pick up a Hinson basket,..maybe throw my basket on Ebay or what not. Or if one of you guys want it cheap...let me know..its in pretty good shape. My riding isn't anything crazy..its cross country and woods riding. But I want a solid machine.... in this case the project is more about building a pretty bad *** bike than any specific purpose. About the journey, not the destination , if you will. Of course you all know the destination of my wallet as I travel the journey..

Last edited by Sponge500; 07-07-2015 at 06:16 PM.
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  #49  
Old 07-08-2015, 04:33 PM
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Good call on the Hinson basket. It's a hard anodized billet piece that will
take a lot more abuse than the OE casting.

One change I do recommend for the 500 is replacing the Aluminum plates
with Steel. The heavier plates will give you a little flywheel effect (a very
good thing for trail riding), and they won't shill and contaminate the tranny
oil like the Aluminum plates.

Quote:
Of course you all know the destination of my wallet as I travel the journey.
Only too well, unfortunately.
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  #50  
Old 07-08-2015, 07:34 PM
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Its an EBC dirtrider clutch with steel plates...

re: my breakdown of the motor so far..I just keep unbolting and tearin things down..I put each assembly or specific purposed item into paper bags and line the bags up in a box,...I assume this will help with reassembly...I still have the feeling its going to be a bit like solving a puzzle. Ill figure out a system though,... I feel like getting organized is going to really help with reassembly.
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