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  #21  
Old 05-01-2015, 09:47 PM
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Turns out a brand new head is the same cost as getting an old one refinished... if anyone wants the old on cheap...$15 plus shipping...let me know

New hat for the beast. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
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  #22  
Old 05-04-2015, 08:15 PM
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I'll take the old head, hit me at seanmx57@yahoo.com
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  #23  
Old 05-13-2015, 10:44 AM
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Build update... got the carb cleaned and rejetted....picked up the brand new cylinder and new wiseco piston kit.

Tore the motor down further.....[IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 08:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ----------

Sand on the impeller plate...

[IMG][/IMG]

---------- Post added at 08:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ----------

So im at a roadblock,... 1. Does anyone know how to get the impeller off as well as the bolts on the clutch without an impact air tool?
2. Does anyone have a case splitter they can let me rent for a few days?

---------- Post added at 08:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:42 AM ----------

Oooh and Dogger,..when you received your new cylinder you remember there was a sort of yellow coating on the inside. Did you do anything to remove that before running the motor? Or just assemble it as is?
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  #24  
Old 05-13-2015, 11:58 AM
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I got my impeller off by inserting a cotton Shop rag in the exhaust port when the piston was down to lock the motor. I was relatively gentle but firm with a 1/4" ratchet.

The yellow coating is typically a wax or cosmolene (spelling), used to prevent rust. I would remove with mineral spirits or IPA or parts washer solvent. Then wash Very Thoroughly. When you think it is clean enough, test with a clean white paper towel wetted with red tranny fluid. If there is any sign of gray or dark color on the rag, it's not clean enough. On my V8 truck Motors I always clean with Hot Soapy water too. But that's Cast Iron.
Others??
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  #25  
Old 05-13-2015, 12:10 PM
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Cool...though I already have the piston off...its just the rod sticking out. I tried putting the chain back on the counter and holding it with vice grips..but that didnt work.


Will clean up that cylinder
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  #26  
Old 05-13-2015, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sponge500 View Post
Cool...though I already have the piston off...its just the rod sticking out.
Good Point, you even showed a picture. Sometimes I can be a little slow

Got a strap wrench? around the Clutch Basket.
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2015, 12:53 PM
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Thats an idea,... I'll keep thinking on it. CR was it you i sent that seat cover to? Did you ever receive it?
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2015, 01:10 PM
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Yes I did. I think it came in Saturday or Monday. Looks great.
Meant to let you know. Just been swamped.
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  #29  
Old 05-13-2015, 02:03 PM
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I've never seen the slanted spark plug hole on a two stroke head. Thats probably pretty convenient for changing out plugs. Haven't seen a head with two coolant inlets either; is that a 500 thing?
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  #30  
Old 05-13-2015, 06:12 PM
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Cool CR... Yea man...The beast has its own special design.
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  #31  
Old 05-13-2015, 08:03 PM
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For the water pump impeller just remove the case cover and put a wrench on the shaft on the backside of the impeller then spin it off.

For the clutch I'm assuming you are trying to get the nut holding the clutch hub off without a holding tool, and with that I wish you luck. It is my experience that the $20 for a Tusk clutch hub holding tool is money well spent.
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  #32  
Old 05-13-2015, 08:36 PM
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Yes COw. I newbed it up for a second....lol I did buy the clutch holding tool from Tusk a while back..like 4 months. And was scratching my head as to why it wouldn't fit onto the flywheel.... LOL. I forgot what it was for exactly. I ended up using the chain on counter with vice grips for that removal. So I will apply that to the clutch assembly when I get back to the build in a few weeks.

On the impeller I feel that I need to unbolt it before I can get the case off,..but Im probably wrong. I mean you have the exact same motor dont you? I do see some more bolts in the pic now that you mention it.
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  #33  
Old 05-14-2015, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sponge500 View Post
On the impeller I feel that I need to unbolt it before I can get the case off,..but Im probably wrong. I mean you have the exact same motor dont you? I do see some more bolts in the pic now that you mention it.
Yeah I have 2 CR500's and one is a 91. You need to remove the right outer case (between the clutch cover and the case itself), the water pump impeller and shaft will come with it. Then you can get a wrench on the flat that's on the inner side of the water pump impeller and put a socket on the impeller and spin it off.
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  #34  
Old 05-14-2015, 09:37 PM
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Right,...gotcha. Thanks Cow
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  #35  
Old 05-15-2015, 09:27 AM
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Sand in an engine is never a good sign. Glad you are tearing it all the way down.
That coating is just what CRa said. Clean it off with your favorite solvent then
wash the cylinder with soap and warm watter until you can run a white, lint free
cloth through the bore and it comes back clean.

You also got good advice on the impeller. Remove the Right side case cover
and you will be able to get to both sides of the impeller. With sand present
in the cooling system, it's good that you are replacing the cylinder, head and
radiators. New coolant hoses and a thorough cleaning of the water pump
should take care of the rest.

A complete rebuild is a big job so take your time and pay attention to details.

dogger
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  #36  
Old 05-17-2015, 10:09 PM
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I don't think that is sand, it looks like non distilled water was used, those are minerals I think.

I made the expensive mistake once of thinking the impellor had a separate nut. It's build right into the unit....
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  #37  
Old 05-17-2015, 10:33 PM
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Thanks Dogger, will do on the cylinder..yes im slow as molasses work wise. My biggest fear at this point is reassembling the motor and having it not shift correctly or something like that.
But yea,.. lots of goodies to freshen her up..... New cylinder, head, rads,..every possible seal and bearing,..piston. Clutch....It will be a new motor basically.

Sean might have a point on the sand looking stuff...I mean its very hard. I worked on that piece for a bit with a razor trying to get the gasket off without much luck and the 'sand" didnt even get knocked off,... It was previously an AZ desert bike..so im not sure whats up with it. Ill check it out next time I work on it.
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  #38  
Old 05-18-2015, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sponge500 View Post
Thanks Dogger, will do on the cylinder..yes im slow as molasses work wise. My biggest fear at this point is reassembling the motor and having it not shift correctly or something like that.
But yea,.. lots of goodies to freshen her up..... New cylinder, head, rads,..every possible seal and bearing,..piston. Clutch....It will be a new motor basically.

Sean might have a point on the sand looking stuff...I mean its very hard. I worked on that piece for a bit with a razor trying to get the gasket off without much luck and the 'sand" didnt even get knocked off,... It was previously an AZ desert bike..so im not sure whats up with it. Ill check it out next time I work on it.
Once you pull the center cases back together you should be able to put the shifter on and make sure it shifts through the gears properly. I do this ever since I completely reassembled my 97 cr250 and went to start it and realized it wouldn't go into neutral
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  #39  
Old 05-18-2015, 09:55 AM
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I too was thinking that might not be sand, which will typically fall right off with a little rub. Plus, how would it have gotten in the sealed cooling system.
Mineral deposit however grow in to their position. The minerals in the water precipitate out of the water, typically in areas where it is the hottest. Is there any of that material in the old cylinder or head?
Try using an acid like the WORKS bathroom cleaner or CLR. Should dissolve it, or at least soften it up. Probably wont help the hard Gasket though.
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  #40  
Old 05-18-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
My biggest fear at this point is reassembling the motor and having it not shift correctly or something like that.
A sure fire way to avoid that is to do a simple functional check before you
add gaskets and the crankshaft. I touched on this in the various engine
build segments I posted. Install the tranny gears, shift drum, forks, etc.
then install the Left side center case using just a few bolts to hold it
together. Turn the countershaft by hand, it should turn without any drama.
Now install the shift plate with pawls springs, plunger, etc., along with the
shift shaft and shift lever. Now spin the main shaft by hand while shifting
through the gears. If it works, you are good to go. Pull the Left side center
case and install the crankshaft, case gasket and put it back together for good
this time. This is not a bad procedure to do until you have finished a few
bottom end builds and are more confident in your abilities.

As for the water pump cover, if those are mineral deposits from hard water,
that's almost as bad as sand, because they have probably formed all over the
coolant system. Again, it's good that you are replacing the cylinder and head
because I'm willing to bet the same mess is in those passages.

I don't know what kind of equipment you have access to, but the easiest way
to clean that up would be to blast it with glass beads. If you don't have a
blast cabinet, try soaking the cover in vinegar for a couple of days. The
acidic PH of vinegar will loosen up the calcium and lime enough for you to
scrape the remainder off with a gasket scraper.

That cover is small but a very important part on your engine. Take the time
to clean it, prep it, paint or powder coat then rebuild it with new bearings,
seals, gaskets, separator plate, and Brass crush washer. Also make sure the
water pump shaft is not grooved at the seal surface. This is a common
problem area. If it is worn, it will leak so replace it while you have it apart.

dogger
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