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  #31  
Old 01-02-2016, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger315 View Post
To restore the original finish from what you have now depends on if there are
any dents that need to be eliminated. If there are only a couple of small dents
you can remove them with a stud puller. You can also send the pipe to Pacific
Crest and have them heat and blow out the dents. Just make sure you tell
them to leave the pipe bare after the work so that they don't put on a coat of
high temp Black paint as they usually do.

Once the pipe is dent free it's time to restore the oiled bare metal finish. You
will need a couple of Green Scotchbrite pads and a can of WD40. Work on a
small section at a time. Spray down the section and hit it with the pad working
along the long axis of the pipe. The finish you're looking for is similar to the
inlet pipe on your PC silencer. Once you have the finish back, use a torch along
the welds to bring back the bluing if the media blasting removed it.

You can also do the WD40/Scotchbrite tecnique to restore the extruded portion
of your swingarm before clearing it.

Since you aren't doing an OE resto, I would recommend keeping and using the
PC pipe and silencer. These pipes were developed and tested with the help of
Team Honda at the time, so there really isn't anything better.
Wow!!! Thanks so much!!! If I sell it how much should I get? Maybe its more useful to someone building a replica?
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  #32  
Old 01-02-2016, 09:36 PM
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Dogger, PM me if you have any 93 parts you would like to sell. Thanks!
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  #33  
Old 01-04-2016, 05:44 PM
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Back from powder coat.
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2016, 08:18 AM
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Looking good. Now comes the work of readying a powder coated frame for
assembly. You'll need to remove the powder coating from any surface where
a bolt has a torque specification. This includes engine mounting tabs, subframe
mounts, even the seat mounts. You will also need to remove the coating from
the coil mounts to ensure a good ground. You need to remove just enough of
the powder to allow the bolt/nut to seat. What I find that works best is a
Dremel with a 1/4" sanding disc.

As far as 93 parts, most of them are already gone but I'll scrounge around and
see if anything worth having is left.
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  #35  
Old 01-05-2016, 11:49 AM
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Perfect!
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  #36  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:34 PM
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2006 YZ250F Ti pegs arrived today...
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  #37  
Old 01-08-2016, 02:32 AM
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nice, waiting pics of them onto the frame!

i've read through the net that the early Ti pegs were prone to crack, anyone has personal experience on this?
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  #38  
Old 01-08-2016, 09:47 AM
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I have not heard that but will watch our for it!

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

Also, ordered an OEM crank and all the bearings and seals.
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2016, 08:03 AM
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So, after a month of back and forth I have decided on the look for my build. Stock would have been awesome like Doggers but too many parts are NLA (although I am still buying a lot of OEM stuff). I'm going with a "GP" bike for this one (though I may pass on the green number plate backgrounds due to their sheer hideiousness). Heres the loose interpretation:


---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 AM ----------

Ordered this seat cover as it screams GP:
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  #40  
Old 01-09-2016, 09:26 AM
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Depending on how far you take the "look", be careful going this route as a lot
of those pieces are very rare. If you're just talking graphics, you should be OK
as there is a company in the UK that reproduces some very nice GP style kits.
But if you want to go even further, items like the TMV style front number plate,
HRC fork protectors and front disc cover are nearly impossible to find.

The bike in your picture is a super rare Aluminum framed HRC works CR250.
Honda experimented with the Aluminum frame back in the early 90s. With
Green number plate backgrounds and "RC" on the shrouds, that bike is
competing in the Japanese Nationals. Honda renamed their works CRs as
RCs from the late 70s to the mid 90s when competing in Japan.

As far as the reliability of the Titanium foot pegs is concerned, unless there
was a batch that suffered from poor quality control, Ti pegs are no more
prone to cracking than steel. Since something like defective foot pegs could
result in serious injury, I'm sure if there was a problem, Yamaha would have
issued a recall and swapped those pegs out. So the probability of problem
pegs still being around is pretty small.
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