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  #21  
Old 12-31-2015, 10:57 AM
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---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:48 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger315 View Post
Let the fun begin!

Looks like you have a real nice basis for your resto - nice find.

Make sure you check the bottom of the frame cradle for rust and
thin spots after you blast it and before you paint/powder coat it.

The airbox and tank both look like they'll clean up real nice and the
engine looks complete. UFO is the only company selling the correct
neon Red Plastic, but you have to deal with them directly to get it.
The only tough to find replacement part will be the seat cover. As
far as I know, nobody is selling a color correct cover with the OE
graphics.

Look forward to the updates.

Oh, if you want your pictures to download (vs the links), click on the
"share" button, then click on the "IMG" selection.
Got it! I think...

---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 AM ----------

[quote=dogger315;726225]Let the fun begin!

Looks like you have a real nice basis for your resto - nice find.

---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------


Down to the frame

---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 AM ----------


Motor was filthy, no surprise.

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------



Swingarm in pretty good shape but really dirty/ grimey.
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  #22  
Old 12-31-2015, 08:28 PM
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Took about a week but got the tank and airbox clean.


---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:29 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 05:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:30 PM ----------

Swing arm soda and then media blasted. PC clear next


---------- Post added at 05:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:31 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 05:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:32 PM ----------

Motor pulled.


---------- Post added at 05:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

Soda blasted motor so I had something clean to work with prior to tear down. New Wiesco top end and OEM bottom end going in.

---------- Post added at 05:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:35 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 PM ----------

Brakes turned out really good and this was just a soda blast. Rebiulding them completely.


---------- Post added at 06:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:03 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 06:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 06:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:05 PM ----------

Soda blasted carb, rebuilding it.

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 PM ----------

All new bearings going in. Plus didnt want a used PC silencer, selling that.


---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 PM ----------

of course this!


---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 PM ----------

Here is the 2004 I did. Found it brand new still in the crate in 2011! Tom Morgan did the motor...


---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ----------

Heres the Pro Circuit works pipe it came with. It was completely rusted. I'm selling this as I'm going new with almost everything.


---------- Post added at 07:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:19 PM ----------

This is on its way from Europe...


---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 PM ----------

More parts came today...
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  #23  
Old 01-01-2016, 10:41 AM
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Not sure why the pic didnt come through...
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  #24  
Old 01-01-2016, 01:25 PM
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Took a break from the CR project to finish my 450. All done now so the focus can be on the CR now.
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  #25  
Old 01-01-2016, 03:52 PM
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Few more parts arrived yesterday. More Honda parts due to arrive week of January 4th.
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  #26  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:37 PM
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---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

another pic of the motor after soda blasting.
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  #27  
Old 01-02-2016, 10:35 AM
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Anyone have experience with DEP pipes? Their steel works pipe looks really good.
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  #28  
Old 01-02-2016, 12:25 PM
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That tank and airbox DID clean up nicely.

One word of caution about blasting an engine before disassembly. Once you
have done that, you are pretty much committed to a tear down to bare cases.
It's nearly impossible to keep the media out of the internals due to all the vent
and weep holes located around the engine. I know you mentioned a new OE
bottom end, so I'm assuming you are already going to replace all the bearings,
seals, circlips, springs, etc., etc.

Keep in mind the Right side case cover, water pump and clutch cover came
painted from Honda, everything else was either plastic or bare cast. Here's
a picture of what I'm talking about:



I took this when I was doing color matching for powder coat. The clutch cover
on the Left is a new OE Honda painted one and the stuff on the Right is the
powder coated match.

I really like the results I've seen from vapor blasting, the cylinder and head
look new. Be careful blasting carburetors, they are clear anodized and any
thing stronger than walnut shells will remove the anodization exposing the
carb body to corrosion. Here's a picture of a PJ I bought off of EBay a while
back:



It was OE on a 93 that somebody was parting out and I needed one for my 93
showroom restoration. I took it apart and cleaned it in a hot solvent tank,
then cleaned it in an ultrasonic parts washer with an Aluminum specific
cleaning solution. Then I put a rebuild kit on it, replaced the throttle valve,
cap, choke, vent lines and hardware. If you look closely, you'll see a slight
shine to the surface of the carb body. That's the anodization still in tact. As
you can tell, there is a lot of work involved in bringing a lowly PJ back to life
and it's only worth it if you are doing an OE resto. For anything else, i would
swap in a new PWK.

That PC Works pipe is worth quite a bit of money if you restore it back to it's
original condition. They have been NLA from PC for a while now and all the
guys doing McGrath replicas want them.
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  #29  
Old 01-02-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger315 View Post
That tank and airbox DID clean up nicely.

One word of caution about blasting an engine before disassembly. Once you
have done that, you are pretty much committed to a tear down to bare cases.
It's nearly impossible to keep the media out of the internals due to all the vent
and weep holes located around the engine. I know you mentioned a new OE
bottom end, so I'm assuming you are already going to replace all the bearings,
seals, circlips, springs, etc., etc.

Keep in mind the Right side case cover, water pump and clutch cover came
painted from Honda, everything else was either plastic or bare cast. Here's
a picture of what I'm talking about:



I took this when I was doing color matching for powder coat. The clutch cover
on the Left is a new OE Honda painted one and the stuff on the Right is the
powder coated match.

I really like the results I've seen from vapor blasting, the cylinder and head
look new. Be careful blasting carburetors, they are clear anodized and any
thing stronger than walnut shells will remove the anodization exposing the
carb body to corrosion. Here's a picture of a PJ I bought off of EBay a while
back:



It was OE on a 93 that somebody was parting out and I needed one for my 93
showroom restoration. I took it apart and cleaned it in a hot solvent tank,
then cleaned it in an ultrasonic parts washer with an Aluminum specific
cleaning solution. Then I put a rebuild kit on it, replaced the throttle valve,
cap, choke, vent lines and hardware. If you look closely, you'll see a slight
shine to the surface of the carb body. That's the anodization still in tact. As
you can tell, there is a lot of work involved in bringing a lowly PJ back to life
and it's only worth it if you are doing an OE resto. For anything else, i would
swap in a new PWK.

That PC Works pipe is worth quite a bit of money if you restore it back to it's
original condition. They have been NLA from PC for a while now and all the
guys doing McGrath replicas want them.
Dogger, thanks! Yes I'm doing a complete tear down of the motor. I'm not doing a OE restore so maybe I'll swap the carb out. How do I go about a restore of the pipe? I have all the rust off so its that dull color now.
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  #30  
Old 01-02-2016, 03:26 PM
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To restore the original finish from what you have now depends on if there are
any dents that need to be eliminated. If there are only a couple of small dents
you can remove them with a stud puller. You can also send the pipe to Pacific
Crest and have them heat and blow out the dents. Just make sure you tell
them to leave the pipe bare after the work so that they don't put on a coat of
high temp Black paint as they usually do.

Once the pipe is dent free it's time to restore the oiled bare metal finish. You
will need a couple of Green Scotchbrite pads and a can of WD40. Work on a
small section at a time. Spray down the section and hit it with the pad working
along the long axis of the pipe. The finish you're looking for is similar to the
inlet pipe on your PC silencer. Once you have the finish back, use a torch along
the welds to bring back the bluing if the media blasting removed it.

You can also do the WD40/Scotchbrite tecnique to restore the extruded portion
of your swingarm before clearing it.

Since you aren't doing an OE resto, I would recommend keeping and using the
PC pipe and silencer. These pipes were developed and tested with the help of
Team Honda at the time, so there really isn't anything better.
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  #31  
Old 01-02-2016, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger315 View Post
To restore the original finish from what you have now depends on if there are
any dents that need to be eliminated. If there are only a couple of small dents
you can remove them with a stud puller. You can also send the pipe to Pacific
Crest and have them heat and blow out the dents. Just make sure you tell
them to leave the pipe bare after the work so that they don't put on a coat of
high temp Black paint as they usually do.

Once the pipe is dent free it's time to restore the oiled bare metal finish. You
will need a couple of Green Scotchbrite pads and a can of WD40. Work on a
small section at a time. Spray down the section and hit it with the pad working
along the long axis of the pipe. The finish you're looking for is similar to the
inlet pipe on your PC silencer. Once you have the finish back, use a torch along
the welds to bring back the bluing if the media blasting removed it.

You can also do the WD40/Scotchbrite tecnique to restore the extruded portion
of your swingarm before clearing it.

Since you aren't doing an OE resto, I would recommend keeping and using the
PC pipe and silencer. These pipes were developed and tested with the help of
Team Honda at the time, so there really isn't anything better.
Wow!!! Thanks so much!!! If I sell it how much should I get? Maybe its more useful to someone building a replica?
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  #32  
Old 01-02-2016, 10:36 PM
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Dogger, PM me if you have any 93 parts you would like to sell. Thanks!
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  #33  
Old 01-04-2016, 06:44 PM
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Back from powder coat.
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2016, 09:18 AM
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Looking good. Now comes the work of readying a powder coated frame for
assembly. You'll need to remove the powder coating from any surface where
a bolt has a torque specification. This includes engine mounting tabs, subframe
mounts, even the seat mounts. You will also need to remove the coating from
the coil mounts to ensure a good ground. You need to remove just enough of
the powder to allow the bolt/nut to seat. What I find that works best is a
Dremel with a 1/4" sanding disc.

As far as 93 parts, most of them are already gone but I'll scrounge around and
see if anything worth having is left.
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  #35  
Old 01-05-2016, 12:49 PM
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Perfect!
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  #36  
Old 01-05-2016, 06:34 PM
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2006 YZ250F Ti pegs arrived today...
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  #37  
Old 01-08-2016, 03:32 AM
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nice, waiting pics of them onto the frame!

i've read through the net that the early Ti pegs were prone to crack, anyone has personal experience on this?
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  #38  
Old 01-08-2016, 10:47 AM
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I have not heard that but will watch our for it!

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

Also, ordered an OEM crank and all the bearings and seals.
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2016, 09:03 AM
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So, after a month of back and forth I have decided on the look for my build. Stock would have been awesome like Doggers but too many parts are NLA (although I am still buying a lot of OEM stuff). I'm going with a "GP" bike for this one (though I may pass on the green number plate backgrounds due to their sheer hideiousness). Heres the loose interpretation:


---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 AM ----------

Ordered this seat cover as it screams GP:
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  #40  
Old 01-09-2016, 10:26 AM
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Depending on how far you take the "look", be careful going this route as a lot
of those pieces are very rare. If you're just talking graphics, you should be OK
as there is a company in the UK that reproduces some very nice GP style kits.
But if you want to go even further, items like the TMV style front number plate,
HRC fork protectors and front disc cover are nearly impossible to find.

The bike in your picture is a super rare Aluminum framed HRC works CR250.
Honda experimented with the Aluminum frame back in the early 90s. With
Green number plate backgrounds and "RC" on the shrouds, that bike is
competing in the Japanese Nationals. Honda renamed their works CRs as
RCs from the late 70s to the mid 90s when competing in Japan.

As far as the reliability of the Titanium foot pegs is concerned, unless there
was a batch that suffered from poor quality control, Ti pegs are no more
prone to cracking than steel. Since something like defective foot pegs could
result in serious injury, I'm sure if there was a problem, Yamaha would have
issued a recall and swapped those pegs out. So the probability of problem
pegs still being around is pretty small.
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