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Old 03-13-2018, 11:02 AM
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Default 1984 RM 250 Full Restoration

     

Here I go again with another restoration. I always liked the Suzuki RA and RH Works bikes and the 1984/1985 RMs were the production copy of those bikes.

I just had this 84 shipped in last night. This bike was parked in a garage in 1991 and never touched for 26 years! Besides the surface rust, she is an original stock bike. This will be a slow build.





Drum Brakes

Piston rings are stuck in the cylinder. Look at the wild design of the frame tubes.


---------- Post added at 09:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Old school Fox and Cycle News Stickers.






The Rads and tank look good.

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Old 03-13-2018, 07:57 PM
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looks like fun.
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Old 03-14-2018, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by bjunior View Post
looks like fun.
Lets hope so.....
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:06 PM
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Last night, I pulled the tank and seat off.



It seems she really has been sitting for a LONG TIME.




Ok, back to the inspection. The seems to be very original. There doesn't to be anything missing or anything fouled up by screwball maintenance. Its simply neglect.
The floater linkage is complete, intact, very smooth and works very nice.




---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:03 AM ----------

Original pipe, it doesn't seem to have any damage.



The piston is stuck. I drained the coolant, it was very clean and the rads were full, no oil and no leaks. Rads look good too. Tonight I am going to remove the head and put some Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil in the intake and exhaust ports and the piston. I looked at the piston through the exhaust port, it looks good,no damage, just a dusting of a small amount of rust.





Here is what I am finding on most of the bike, there is a mixture of red clay and rust on the exposed bolts but the inner parts of the bolts look new.

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Old 03-16-2018, 03:07 PM
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Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:14 PM
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Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
Me too!
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:41 PM
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Ok, I got the piston unstuck from the cylinder after letting the cylinder soak in PB Blaster and Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil for about a week.









The piston was stuck at almost TDC. The head, and the piston looked good but there was surface rust on the lower cylinder skirts.

Barrel


The piston didn't look too bad at all.


There was a lot of carbon on the piston and in the exhaust port.




After a quick cleanup, this is what the piston looked like


---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 AM ----------

Intake

Reeds looked great, some oxidation on the cage.

Another shot after unsticking the cylinder.


Stator


---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------

I could not find direct damage from engine failure or even wear, just neglect from sitting since 1991. I drained the oil and it was debris free just very old. Ok, here is the bad news.


The rod and main bearings are stuck too. But no sign of apparent direct damage or wear.




I decided to pull the motor for a full rebuild. I pulled the swingarm shaft 3/4 of the way out and removed all the engine mounts except the bottom one which the nut came off the bolt but the bolt would not move. I turned the bike upside down and hit the bolt with PB Blaster and some heat, then my impact wrench, the bolt turns freely now but the bolt still will not back out. I am going to let it soak for a few days.

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Old 04-02-2018, 02:47 PM
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Well things are moving along. the bottom motor bolt was tough to take off. I had to put the torch on it twice and pound it out with a mini sledge. It was very rusted and bent.


Here is the bottom end on the workbench.




The water pump cover came off without a problem. It looks like new inside.


The impeller looks perfect as well.


I don't think the clutch cover has ever been off the bike. small dent in lower cover, looks like from the rear brake pedal when someone tipped over.

Some sludge in the bottom of the clutch cover, I rinsed this all out with some brake cleaner.



The clutch basket and plates look original and the clutch basket has never been off the bike.


just a very small amount of grooving on the clutch basket.


But the steel plates have rusted into the fiber plates.



---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

I need help on two problems. I can't get the primary gear nut on the crank loose. I read some threads that said Suzuki put a high strength locker on this nut and it was only removable with heat. Some thought the bolt was a left hand thread because it was so hard to remove, but other said it was right hand thread but it took a lot of heat. I put PB blaster and the torch on the nut, then put my 1200 pound Milwaukee Impact Wrench on it, it didn't move the nut at all and it rounded the edge of the nut but I stopped immediately and I straightened the damage with a file.

I could use my 3/4 breaker bar with a 3/4 inch 19mm socket.

Any suggestions?

And the nut came right off the stator. I have 6 flywheel pullers and none of them fit this design which has the two locations to thread into the bolt holes.

Any body have specific puller model to recommend?



Any suggestions?

---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

The clutch basket looks fabulous with no indication that it has ever been removed from the bike.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:36 PM
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I have ran in to a couple primary nuts that would not come off easily. Some of the problem is, with the engine out of the bike a lot of the impact torque is soaked up by the engine moving around and the crank being able to move too. You may have to put the engine back in the frame or come up with another way to hold the engine while using a breaker bar to remove the nut. I couldn't tell you if it is a left or right thread. I have seen the suzukis sometimes have an "L" or some other mark stamped on a left hand threaded nut.
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Old 04-04-2018, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
I have ran in to a couple primary nuts that would not come off easily. Some of the problem is, with the engine out of the bike a lot of the impact torque is soaked up by the engine moving around and the crank being able to move too. You may have to put the engine back in the frame or come up with another way to hold the engine while using a breaker bar to remove the nut. I couldn't tell you if it is a left or right thread. I have seen the suzukis sometimes have an "L" or some other mark stamped on a left hand threaded nut.
I think you are right about putting it back in the frame, I may do that.

---------- Post added at 12:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------

Does anyone know the original blue paint code or the blue powdercoat code for the frame on this bike?
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