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  #1  
Old 03-13-2018, 10:02 AM
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Default 1984 RM 250 Full Restoration

     

Here I go again with another restoration. I always liked the Suzuki RA and RH Works bikes and the 1984/1985 RMs were the production copy of those bikes.

I just had this 84 shipped in last night. This bike was parked in a garage in 1991 and never touched for 26 years! Besides the surface rust, she is an original stock bike. This will be a slow build.





Drum Brakes

Piston rings are stuck in the cylinder. Look at the wild design of the frame tubes.


---------- Post added at 09:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Old school Fox and Cycle News Stickers.






The Rads and tank look good.

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Old 03-13-2018, 06:57 PM
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looks like fun.
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Old 03-14-2018, 10:20 AM
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looks like fun.
Lets hope so.....
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:06 AM
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Last night, I pulled the tank and seat off.



It seems she really has been sitting for a LONG TIME.




Ok, back to the inspection. The seems to be very original. There doesn't to be anything missing or anything fouled up by screwball maintenance. Its simply neglect.
The floater linkage is complete, intact, very smooth and works very nice.




---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:03 AM ----------

Original pipe, it doesn't seem to have any damage.



The piston is stuck. I drained the coolant, it was very clean and the rads were full, no oil and no leaks. Rads look good too. Tonight I am going to remove the head and put some Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil in the intake and exhaust ports and the piston. I looked at the piston through the exhaust port, it looks good,no damage, just a dusting of a small amount of rust.





Here is what I am finding on most of the bike, there is a mixture of red clay and rust on the exposed bolts but the inner parts of the bolts look new.

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Old 03-16-2018, 02:07 PM
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Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:14 PM
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Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
Me too!
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:41 AM
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Ok, I got the piston unstuck from the cylinder after letting the cylinder soak in PB Blaster and Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil for about a week.









The piston was stuck at almost TDC. The head, and the piston looked good but there was surface rust on the lower cylinder skirts.

Barrel


The piston didn't look too bad at all.


There was a lot of carbon on the piston and in the exhaust port.




After a quick cleanup, this is what the piston looked like


---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 AM ----------

Intake

Reeds looked great, some oxidation on the cage.

Another shot after unsticking the cylinder.


Stator


---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------

I could not find direct damage from engine failure or even wear, just neglect from sitting since 1991. I drained the oil and it was debris free just very old. Ok, here is the bad news.


The rod and main bearings are stuck too. But no sign of apparent direct damage or wear.




I decided to pull the motor for a full rebuild. I pulled the swingarm shaft 3/4 of the way out and removed all the engine mounts except the bottom one which the nut came off the bolt but the bolt would not move. I turned the bike upside down and hit the bolt with PB Blaster and some heat, then my impact wrench, the bolt turns freely now but the bolt still will not back out. I am going to let it soak for a few days.

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Old 04-02-2018, 01:47 PM
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Well things are moving along. the bottom motor bolt was tough to take off. I had to put the torch on it twice and pound it out with a mini sledge. It was very rusted and bent.


Here is the bottom end on the workbench.




The water pump cover came off without a problem. It looks like new inside.


The impeller looks perfect as well.


I don't think the clutch cover has ever been off the bike. small dent in lower cover, looks like from the rear brake pedal when someone tipped over.

Some sludge in the bottom of the clutch cover, I rinsed this all out with some brake cleaner.



The clutch basket and plates look original and the clutch basket has never been off the bike.


just a very small amount of grooving on the clutch basket.


But the steel plates have rusted into the fiber plates.



---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

I need help on two problems. I can't get the primary gear nut on the crank loose. I read some threads that said Suzuki put a high strength locker on this nut and it was only removable with heat. Some thought the bolt was a left hand thread because it was so hard to remove, but other said it was right hand thread but it took a lot of heat. I put PB blaster and the torch on the nut, then put my 1200 pound Milwaukee Impact Wrench on it, it didn't move the nut at all and it rounded the edge of the nut but I stopped immediately and I straightened the damage with a file.

I could use my 3/4 breaker bar with a 3/4 inch 19mm socket.

Any suggestions?

And the nut came right off the stator. I have 6 flywheel pullers and none of them fit this design which has the two locations to thread into the bolt holes.

Any body have specific puller model to recommend?



Any suggestions?

---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

The clutch basket looks fabulous with no indication that it has ever been removed from the bike.
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:36 PM
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I have ran in to a couple primary nuts that would not come off easily. Some of the problem is, with the engine out of the bike a lot of the impact torque is soaked up by the engine moving around and the crank being able to move too. You may have to put the engine back in the frame or come up with another way to hold the engine while using a breaker bar to remove the nut. I couldn't tell you if it is a left or right thread. I have seen the suzukis sometimes have an "L" or some other mark stamped on a left hand threaded nut.
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Old 04-04-2018, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
I have ran in to a couple primary nuts that would not come off easily. Some of the problem is, with the engine out of the bike a lot of the impact torque is soaked up by the engine moving around and the crank being able to move too. You may have to put the engine back in the frame or come up with another way to hold the engine while using a breaker bar to remove the nut. I couldn't tell you if it is a left or right thread. I have seen the suzukis sometimes have an "L" or some other mark stamped on a left hand threaded nut.
I think you are right about putting it back in the frame, I may do that.

---------- Post added at 12:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------

Does anyone know the original blue paint code or the blue powdercoat code for the frame on this bike?
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2018, 11:28 AM
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Default Primary Gear Nut is a Left Hand Thread

Well, I got my OEM Suzuki Service Manual last night and I was surprised too. There was a detailed description of the primary gear removal with a photo. It is a left hand thread. I reversed the direction on my impact wrench, put on a 19mm socket and "bang' the nut came off in less than a second.




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Old 04-12-2018, 01:19 PM
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Default What Happens When You Park Your Bike and Leave it for 26 Years

This bike is 33 years old, it has been sitting in a garage for 26 years.

I split the cases on Saturday, here is what everything looked like so far.

Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures.





I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly.




Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case.



The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.

I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work.

Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol....


Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money.


---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ----------

I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.




Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well.


Here is where we are at the moment. I'm going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?



---------- Post added at 12:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)



After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

http://www.ralcolor.com/

Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?
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Old 04-12-2018, 02:31 PM
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Looks like your clutch basket is in pretty good shape... but in case you end up needing one, don't be afraid of the Mitaka basket. I just installed one on my 84, have one race on it and it was perfect. If you do end up getting one, make sure you get new rubber bumpers from them as well.

IMO, the 84 is a great bike. MUCH better than the 83 in several ways. I obviously don't log in often, but I'll be checking this thread out to see your progress. Shameless self promotion plug - should you find yourself needing 84 shroud decals and number plates, let me know. I have the artwork and the templates. I can be reached by email char@mxgurl.com.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by char393 View Post
Looks like your clutch basket is in pretty good shape... but in case you end up needing one, don't be afraid of the Mitaka basket. I just installed one on my 84, have one race on it and it was perfect. If you do end up getting one, make sure you get new rubber bumpers from them as well.

IMO, the 84 is a great bike. MUCH better than the 83 in several ways. I obviously don't log in often, but I'll be checking this thread out to see your progress. Shameless self promotion plug - should you find yourself needing 84 shroud decals and number plates, let me know. I have the artwork and the templates. I can be reached by email char@mxgurl.com.
Awesome, thanks for the info, yes, I will probably need the decals.

---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 AM ----------

I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?





Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed to point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit.

* Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else?


The piston just has the "arrow" that goes in the direction of the exhaust port. Here is a photo.


Piston before cleanup.

More photos of piston.

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Old 04-24-2018, 12:43 PM
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What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?




---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.




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Old 04-24-2018, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto7man View Post
What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?




---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.




My guess is that the bearing is holding the shaft in, you may have to devise some kind of puller to lift up on the shaft and pop the bearing out of it's bore. Maybe put the clutch arm back on and see if you can carefully pry upward? Or come up with a plate that goes over the case and somehow use a bolt to lift up on the clutch arm while pushing against the plate.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyona426 View Post
My guess is that the bearing is holding the shaft in, you may have to devise some kind of puller to lift up on the shaft and pop the bearing out of it's bore. Maybe put the clutch arm back on and see if you can carefully pry upward? Or come up with a plate that goes over the case and somehow use a bolt to lift up on the clutch arm while pushing against the plate.
Ok, I was trying to devise a solution with the vast array of pullers that I have in the garage. I just thought there might be specific puller for this application. I always like to have the right tool for the job. Thanks for the post! I will try to come up with a solution. Any more ideas from anyone?
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:42 PM
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Heat and slide hammer
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
Heat and slide hammer
I was thinking slide hammer too, but I would need some way to connect it to the shaft.
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:50 PM
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Do you have a welder? I am thinking small bearing separator with a plate bolted to it. Weld a nut to the center of the plate to attach the slide hammer to. Tighten the separator on to the shaft and heat up the case around the bearings. Then hammer away.

Last edited by 351mustanger; 04-25-2018 at 08:58 PM.
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