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  #11  
Old 04-05-2018, 11:28 AM
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Default Primary Gear Nut is a Left Hand Thread

     

Well, I got my OEM Suzuki Service Manual last night and I was surprised too. There was a detailed description of the primary gear removal with a photo. It is a left hand thread. I reversed the direction on my impact wrench, put on a 19mm socket and "bang' the nut came off in less than a second.




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  #12  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:19 PM
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Default What Happens When You Park Your Bike and Leave it for 26 Years

This bike is 33 years old, it has been sitting in a garage for 26 years.

I split the cases on Saturday, here is what everything looked like so far.

Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures.





I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly.




Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case.



The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.

I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work.

Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol....


Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money.


---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ----------

I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.




Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well.


Here is where we are at the moment. I'm going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?



---------- Post added at 12:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)



After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

http://www.ralcolor.com/

Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2018, 02:31 PM
char393's Avatar
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Looks like your clutch basket is in pretty good shape... but in case you end up needing one, don't be afraid of the Mitaka basket. I just installed one on my 84, have one race on it and it was perfect. If you do end up getting one, make sure you get new rubber bumpers from them as well.

IMO, the 84 is a great bike. MUCH better than the 83 in several ways. I obviously don't log in often, but I'll be checking this thread out to see your progress. Shameless self promotion plug - should you find yourself needing 84 shroud decals and number plates, let me know. I have the artwork and the templates. I can be reached by email char@mxgurl.com.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2018, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by char393 View Post
Looks like your clutch basket is in pretty good shape... but in case you end up needing one, don't be afraid of the Mitaka basket. I just installed one on my 84, have one race on it and it was perfect. If you do end up getting one, make sure you get new rubber bumpers from them as well.

IMO, the 84 is a great bike. MUCH better than the 83 in several ways. I obviously don't log in often, but I'll be checking this thread out to see your progress. Shameless self promotion plug - should you find yourself needing 84 shroud decals and number plates, let me know. I have the artwork and the templates. I can be reached by email char@mxgurl.com.
Awesome, thanks for the info, yes, I will probably need the decals.

---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 AM ----------

I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?





Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed to point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit.

* Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else?


The piston just has the "arrow" that goes in the direction of the exhaust port. Here is a photo.


Piston before cleanup.

More photos of piston.

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  #15  
Old 04-24-2018, 12:43 PM
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What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?




---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.




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  #16  
Old 04-24-2018, 05:29 PM
cowboyona426's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto7man View Post
What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?




---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.




My guess is that the bearing is holding the shaft in, you may have to devise some kind of puller to lift up on the shaft and pop the bearing out of it's bore. Maybe put the clutch arm back on and see if you can carefully pry upward? Or come up with a plate that goes over the case and somehow use a bolt to lift up on the clutch arm while pushing against the plate.
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2018, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyona426 View Post
My guess is that the bearing is holding the shaft in, you may have to devise some kind of puller to lift up on the shaft and pop the bearing out of it's bore. Maybe put the clutch arm back on and see if you can carefully pry upward? Or come up with a plate that goes over the case and somehow use a bolt to lift up on the clutch arm while pushing against the plate.
Ok, I was trying to devise a solution with the vast array of pullers that I have in the garage. I just thought there might be specific puller for this application. I always like to have the right tool for the job. Thanks for the post! I will try to come up with a solution. Any more ideas from anyone?
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2018, 12:42 PM
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Heat and slide hammer
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2018, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
Heat and slide hammer
I was thinking slide hammer too, but I would need some way to connect it to the shaft.
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  #20  
Old 04-25-2018, 08:50 PM
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Do you have a welder? I am thinking small bearing separator with a plate bolted to it. Weld a nut to the center of the plate to attach the slide hammer to. Tighten the separator on to the shaft and heat up the case around the bearings. Then hammer away.

Last edited by 351mustanger; 04-25-2018 at 08:58 PM.
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