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  #21  
Old 04-26-2018, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
Do you have a welder? I am thinking small bearing separator with a plate bolted to it. Weld a nut to the center of the plate to attach the slide hammer to. Tighten the separator on to the shaft and heat up the case around the bearings. Then hammer away.
An alternate solution might be to drill/tap the shaft for a bolt and use the slide hammer that way.
Moto7man, no mention of how to remove this in the manual?
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  #22  
Old 04-28-2018, 05:29 PM
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I'm really enjoying the build!

Lots of work. I'm impressed and can't wait to see the finished product.
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  #23  
Old 05-05-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody_393 View Post
I'm really enjoying the build!

Lots of work. I'm impressed and can't wait to see the finished product.
Sorry for the delay, but I was covered up at work this week. Thanks Woody! I used your links to Dogger to build my 94 CR 250, you are a life saver man! I am going to post updates now. I have the bike down to the frame now and I guess the reassembly begins as the new parts arrive.
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2018, 05:26 PM
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Sorry for the delay but I was super busy at work this week.

I pulled off the radiators, coil, CDI and the front suspension. The rads look really good, I am going to have the rads and the rad guards anodized. The bike still had the stock handle bars but they had been tweaked hard and were not usable, I put them in the circular file.




Upper triple clamp was a ball bearing not a tampered bearing and it was destroyed, ball bearings everywhere and part of the cage stuck in the upper race.



Note the ball bearings laying on top of the lower tapered bearing.




Coil and shots of the races.






Forks look great.


Here is a shot of the aluminum full floating rear brake arm for the rear drum brake.


Next I started on the wheels.
Here is the rear wheel.




Here is the front.





Here is something you don't see anymore. Dual shoe front brake with a magnesium backing plate.





Upper and lower alignment marks for the brake arms.






These were the original wheels. The spokes on both wheels were completely seized from rust and the rear rim had a crack.I will be ordering a new set of excel rims with Buchanan spokes and tubliss with new Metzeler Unicross tires.

This crack is probably repairable.

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  #25  
Old 05-05-2018, 05:41 PM
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Front rim looks great.








Both hubs almost ready for powdercoat.



If you haven't seen a full floater rear suspension then this is what it looks like. I raced one of these bikes in the mid 80s for a couple of races. The Hondas had more power, but floater suspension was vastly superior to everything else.











I removed the footpegs and brake pedal from the frame. I measured the footpegs' they are around 30mm or about have the size of the foot pegs on my Honda and GasGas. Someone posted on another forum that 96-2002 rm 250 foot pegs will bolt right up if you drill out the holes on the frame just a little for the bigger pins.Does anyone know if this is true?







34 year old brake pedal doesn't look too bad....








As of this morning here is where we are on the build.Suspension will be boxed up to go to Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider for full rebuild. Every thing else will be going to powdercoating / anodizing or will be replaced with new oem Suzuki parts. Cylinder and head will be going to Procircuit for boring and porting. I will try to match up a new Rekluse Clutch Basket and Rekluse Auto Clutch. I have an Ohlins SD 571 steering dampner but I'm not sure that I can adapt it to this model, we will see.



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  #26  
Old 05-13-2018, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyona426 View Post
An alternate solution might be to drill/tap the shaft for a bolt and use the slide hammer that way.
Moto7man, no mention of how to remove this in the manual?
I think you are right, There is a hole in the top of the shaft. I removed the clutch actuator from the left case. I put a torch on it and I was able to tap the shaft and the bearing out.There wasn't a keeper or lock ring.








There was a hole in the top of the shaft about 6mm deep, It appears Suzuki had a special attachment for a slide hammer tool that fit into the hole, but I could not find it or a picture of it anywhere.
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2018, 01:19 PM
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I got a little bit done this weekend. I removed the bearings from both hubs.
Here is the front hub.


Here is a partial shot of the rear hub, note the the nest.


Bearings came out of both hubs without a problem. The front hub looked like new inside.


The front and rear bearing spacers looked like new. I think these are the original spacers and bearings from the factory.



Then I pulled the bearings out of the swingarm. I used a Motion Pro Suspension Service Tool and once I broke the bearing loose, I used an Impact Wrench on the low power setting to spin the tool. It was fast work, 5 minutes each side and the bearings were out.










The bearings were not worn, but they were rusted very badly.



The interior of the swingarm looked fine, it just needs some cleanup.

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  #28  
Old 06-05-2018, 02:01 PM
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Sorry for the delay, I got busy at work. I have been making some progress.

Do you think the chain guide block was worn out?



Another bolt was sheared in half by the chain.


Everything else looked good just a little dirty.



The four rear suspension link spherical bearings were retained by steel circlips. They were very oxidized and difficult to remove. I had to compress the spherical bearing with a socket in a bench vice into one circlip to get enough clearance to remove the the circlip on the other side.






You need these to pry out the circlips.



There were eight of these circlips to remove.



---------- Post added at 01:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 PM ----------

I just received a new oem Suzuki .025 piston and one of my crank bearings arrived as well.









Here is a pic of the rubber mounted triple clamps. The stock bars were original but had been tweaked hard. Anybody got a recommendation on a bar bend? Does anybody know what the renthal bar bend is on the new 2018 XC Gassers?

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  #29  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:12 PM
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Looking good...

Keep up the good work.
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  #30  
Old 06-12-2018, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody_393 View Post
Looking good...

Keep up the good work.


THANKS! I am working on it.
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  #31  
Old 06-18-2018, 12:55 PM
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I need some help finding the 4 spherical bearings that go in the two rear pushrods.







These are 10mm wide, 21 OD and 10 ID.






Also, the top steering head bearing has ball bearing with a top and bottom section, and the ID on each section is different(to mate with a bulge in the steering stem). I suppose there is no way to substitute a tapered bearing now.






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  #32  
Old 06-18-2018, 05:06 PM
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For the spherical bearings, I would contact an industrial supply company like Kaman or Motion Industries, or whoever you have local to you. They will likely be able to use the dimensions to find a cross-reference. For the steering head bearing, could a tapered bearing be made to work by machining the steering stem? That one may be more of a challenge.
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  #33  
Old 06-19-2018, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyona426 View Post
For the spherical bearings, I would contact an industrial supply company like Kaman or Motion Industries, or whoever you have local to you. They will likely be able to use the dimensions to find a cross-reference. For the steering head bearing, could a tapered bearing be made to work by machining the steering stem? That one may be more of a challenge.
Ok, maybe machining the stem would work, thats a good idea, thanks!
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  #34  
Old 06-19-2018, 05:08 PM
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Those bearings should be available OEM? Part number 10 and 14 correct?

They are expensive though.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/su.../cushion-lever
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  #35  
Old 06-20-2018, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by char393 View Post
Those bearings should be available OEM? Part number 10 and 14 correct?

They are expensive though.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/su.../cushion-lever
Yes, they are available from Suzuki but I thought that I might be able to find a high quality substitute for a cheaper price.

---------- Post added at 01:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 PM ----------

This is the top steering stem, is this a removable race or machined part of the frame. The multi piece bearing above(pictured in previous post) and below, fits this top of the steering stem.




This is what the top bearing looked like before I removed the it.




The bottom race is normal and I removed it without a problem.




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  #36  
Old 06-20-2018, 04:07 PM
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Sorry, I misread then. I agree with Cowboy - a local bearing house should be able to hook you up.
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  #37  
Old 06-21-2018, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by char393 View Post
Sorry, I misread then. I agree with Cowboy - a local bearing house should be able to hook you up.
No worries, I think I will go that route.
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  #38  
Old 07-02-2018, 09:29 AM
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I left my parts with a local powdercoater and after two weeks of the continual run around I went and picked up my parts that were sitting in the same pile in the shop floor where I had left them two weeks ago.

I am shipping my parts to my old powdercoater.He does a great job but the shipping is a little expensive.

This is what a bike looks like in a box.




Engine cases bubble wrapped and boxed up.


Hubs, cylinder and other pieces.


---------- Post added at 08:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 AM ----------

Here is a picture of the oem silencer. It was very oxidized, I cleaned it up a bit with a wire wheel. (Always wear respiratory protection) I am going to have it and the radiators anodized.



The 34 year old radiators don't look too bad.



---------- Post added at 08:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 AM ----------

Some more parts coming in bit by bit.I picked up some used protapers.




The Oem triples are rubber mounted, and when I disassembled the triples the rubber cones looked like new.





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  #39  
Old 07-02-2018, 11:39 PM
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Default ATTN SUZUKI EXPERTS:Does Anyone Know If This Upper Race is Removable?????

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS UPPER RACE IS REMOVABLE??????????? No one seems to know the answer on any on the forums. The tapered bearing kit from all balls comes with a new race with specific instructions on machining the stem to accept the tapered bearing. Before I put a torch on this upper race and drive it out, I want to make sure it is actually a removable race because if it is removable it is very solidly seized and I may deform it by removing it.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto7man View Post



[/COLOR]This is the top steering stem, is this a removable race or machined part of the frame. The multi piece bearing above(pictured in previous post) and below, fits this top of the steering stem.




This is what the top bearing looked like before I removed the it.




The bottom race is normal and I removed it without a problem.




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  #40  
Old 07-03-2018, 12:10 PM
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Default Is this a Removable Race?

Here is a better picture.

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