New PW80 for my boy

[WakeSS]

Hi All,
New here just checking out some stuff for my sons new 2000 PW80.

I just picked it up last week for his first bike. After the first day of riding I need to get a new throttle/kill switch assembly. He went down hard on a slick downhill and re-broke the throttle assem./kill switch.

It ran pretty good, a few floods after falls, but had him go through flooded start procedure and it started right back up.

This week I've decided to run through it and do some maintenance and maybe some mods.
Fork oil smelt like burnt gear oil so we're changing that out and re-filling with 15wt at 6.5" and possibly adding a preload spacer if I re-locate the rear shock.
Pulled the carb just to check it out and set the float bowls etc. The plug actually looks good even though these bikes are supposed to be rich out of the factory.
Of course it has no silencer on it (just ordered a FMF turbine core SA for it), and it had a plug two steps hotter in it.
The plan is to get the silencer and stock plug on it and adjust the jetting from there.
I have a 13 tooth front sprocket, new set of bars, and a replacement throttle housing/ kill switch on the way.

So, I don't want to keep replacing Run/Stop switches at $30 a pop! Does any one have any recommendation for bark buster/handguards on these things?
I've only found two "mini" guards. Acerbis MiniCross, and Moose mini aluminum hand guards. What is everyone running on their kids or pit bikes that will actually protect the levers, throttle, and run switch?

Any other mods or setup recommendations?

Thanks!

[pragmatic393]

Run the switch assembly a bit loose, along with the brake and clutch levers. Most of the time they will pivot rather than break after a fall.

Furthermore, don't spend too much time and $ on that bike~He'll outgrow it in a few hours, start looking for a good used 65- ktm, RM, KX (pick your color and price). Good luck

[Woody_393]

I would actually recommend putting teflon tape under the throttle housing/kill switch, and then not tightening it up enough that it won't rotate with a good bump.

That way it will rotate instead of just breaking off.

I'm sure there are some good bark busters for the mini's but I don't know of any off hand.

[pragmatic393]

Originally Posted by Woody_393

I would actually recommend putting teflon tape under the throttle housing/kill switch, and then not tightening it up enough that it won't rotate with a good bump.

That way it will rotate instead of just breaking off.

I'm sure there are some good bark busters for the mini's but I don't know of any off hand.

Wow woody, thats a great idea !

[WakeSS]

Thanks guys, great idea on the teflon tape!
I actually ended up ordering the moose guards just because I was ordering some other parts. I figured we can always swap them onto the next bike.

[Woody_393]

I used the teflon trick on my '03 CRF and I never once broke a lever.

[WakeSS]

FYI, I had ordered a set of Moose mini aluminum handguards and these things are way too big for PW80 bars. I guess that 80cc they are referencing is a YZ!
So, it looks like the Acerbis Mini guards are pretty much the only option for these bikes.

My boy and I did the shock remount last night, along with 1/2" preload spacers in the forks, and went to a 14 tooth front spocket. It was late when we got done but I'll try to ride test it today.
It definetly raised the rear but it looks like around 2-3" tops. It's actually probably perfect for him with the preload spacers in the forks.

[dhighlan]

We went through 2 housing before I just slightly tightened them down and went to the Teflon thing. When that throttle cable sticks it will scary the crap out of them. They are great little trail bike but no matter what they will bottom out when ridden hard enough, the spacer are nice for ride height but remember they actual take away travel so they can get a little ruff on the rebound and bounce around.
Guarding those controls is a great idea as well as a few spacer b/w pipe and cylinder and getting rid of the injection system and go with pre mix.

[WakeSS]

LOL, yeah the look on his face when he broke the throttle housing and it stuck WO was priceless.

Spacer b/w the pipe and head? at the actual exhaust manifold? Are you talking about removing the restrictor washer?

Thanks!

[dhighlan]

Well good idea to remove that if still there. What I was referring to is take washer (inside dia no smaller than the exhaust flange) and basically you are extended the head length to give it more low end grunt.

[WakeSS]

Ahh, OK. Thanks! I'll give it a shot.
Looks like the previous owner tweeked the pipe anyway so maybe that will make it line up better!