Quick question about jumping

[jhendrix]

Originally Posted by Miles711

I ended up not going to skeeters anyways. Sorry I didn't call you back, I got your message when I woke up and then went out to the garage this morning and got side tracked working on the bike.

The comfort to move around in the air really just comes with seat time. You have to get over that locked up feeling you have at first that makes you freeze. This was the biggest thing I struggled with, and I still am not as comfortable in the air as I would like. It's an on going thing.

The feeling you get in the air is far from a natural feeling, so I guess it takes time to make it feel natural. It also helps when you get to a point where you don't have that bit of fear on the jump your doing. For some jumps that happens faster than others. There are a few jumps out at 3P that I do, but have never really been completely comfortable with. Those are also the ones where my body position tends to be the worst. I guess you could say that your confidence really shows through body positioning.

Yeah, I see what you mean, theres a couple jumps at Angleton that I like alot more than others. But, theres still that fear that it's going to throw me wrong and i'll break something. I guess thats whats keeping me from shifting up a gear and clearing them all the way.

[mossy]

Originally Posted by crfjedi393

Throttle control is not the main thing I use to maintain a favorable bike position. Body position is one of the most important things when jumping. Experiment over and over on the same jump. Preferably a nice easy table top so you can short jump it. Experience will teach you where you should be on the bike. It may only take an inch or so of movement to make a difference. Eventually you will gain confidence and you'll know what to do on different faces.
It's hard to teach/learn jumping on a forum. There are lots of variables.

This is good advice, if you want to learn to attack a jump[Throttle and body] as stated use a tabletop, grip with your knees,hold a constant throttle till the back wheel leaves and lean FWD to the same position as you would when walking up the jump. Shorten your run up so you only jump half way[safety] then follow two rules,throttle must stay on to back wheel leaves and both wheels must land even to the ground surface. As you achieve this progress further[1 foot will do] buy either turning the throttle harder or taking a little longer run up. Have fun,stay safe.

[crowmoto]

I knew a guy that could jump well on any bike. So, I would say that if you are like me and suck at jumps, it isn't your suspension settings. I have a question about freezing on the bike. When I go nose high (The most common problem we bad jumpers have) I feel that if I try to move forward on the bike, I will be pulling back on the bars and make it worse.

Here is me jumping nose high

[t miller]

I had the same jumping problems as some of you guys. Last year I landed way nose high came off the back of the bike and broke sacrum and fractured a couple vertebrae. The first thing I did this season was adjust my bars more forward, forcing me to stay in more of an agressive attack position. This has given me way more confidebnce . im landing flat and spotting my landing instead of looking in to the sky wondering if Ill land it or crash. Hope this helps.

[emiller]

For me, jumping's easy. It's all the stuff between the jumps I struggle with.

[Oklahomarider]

Originally Posted by t miller

I had the same jumping problems as some of you guys. Last year I landed way nose high came off the back of the bike and broke sacrum and fractured a couple vertebrae. The first thing I did this season was adjust my bars more forward, forcing me to stay in more of an agressive attack position. This has given me way more confidebnce . im landing flat and spotting my landing instead of looking in to the sky wondering if Ill land it or crash. Hope this helps.

Sit on your bike, forward, above your pegs. Where you would be in a turn, usually farther forward than what most beginner riders sit. Close your eyes and stick your arms straight out in front of you, let them fall sorta relaxed straight down and your palms should hit your grips.

[kschilk]

Alot depends on what type of jump it is, how your suspension is set, how you intend to land and how you want to fly. Generally, as previously stated by Jedi & Mossy, you want to be in the "attack position". Don't hit the jump all tapped-out, throttle-wise...if it's a "kicker", you'll need a little blip on takeoff, it's best to be in the meaty part of the powerband. Once committed, don't back-off or you'll preload your suspension. At this point, you should be focused ahead, looking at or toward your landing area.

At this point, I vary from Mossy's method...I never grip the tank or seat because as I leave the jump, I push forward on the bars and pegs, getting low on the bike and putting it into mostly level flight. While in the air, I ease forward and adjust the angle of attack for landing, ending up in the "attack position" just before touchdown.

[Jacquesyz250]

Originally Posted by jhendrix

Yeah, I see what you mean, theres a couple jumps at Angleton that I like alot more than others. But, theres still that fear that it's going to throw me wrong and i'll break something. I guess thats whats keeping me from shifting up a gear and clearing them all the way.

You know that fear you get, it sits in all of us somewhere! But the bigger boys just get that fear when they got a bigger jump to clear....Well I got over that a while back already...

I use to do downhill MTB for 4 years and well when I got my yz all I did with the jumps was imagine that I was on my bike and just got in a natural seating position that I felt comfortable with and turned my right hand!!! after a while you'll get use to it...

Just keep practicing mate...


NO GUTS, NO GLORY!!!

[tblacc]

I think what we can gather from all of these tips, (which i dont think anyone is wrong just different styles,) is stay in the attack position. this position should really be held everywhere on the track as well as over jumps. This postion means always being able to see you front number plate. If you look down and you dont see yours numbers you're not there. Uncomfortable yes, but try that as much as you can and see what a difference it makes. If you are attacking the jump, as far as position, but not throttle, it probablly wont turn out good. With that said Next is throttle control over and completely through the jump. 07 paul carpenter's trainer told me one of the best tips i've ever heard,"apply the throttle" dont twist it, dont jam it, or whatever it is that you call it. If that makes sense to you, maybe you will get out of it what i did. Most of all relax, hesitation equals pain.

[noobish]

I ride with a lot of guys that are way fast, hit the 100-120 foot jumps and so they dont let you just be a wuss, they are always pushing me to jump bigger, test my limits. This could be dumb advice, but my friend always says before he talks me into hitting something "Dont be scared, go big, pain is temporary, glory is forever, and go faster then you think you should". I am pretty good at jumping stuff now and dont really fear a lot of jumps, its cornering and being able to burn laps that kills me, need to be working out I guess......Going nose high does suck, and thats a great reason to hurry up and learn the break tap, plus you will start to feel lose in the air, I still have to make a concentrated effort to break tap, and shifting in the air is what I am working now. I can down shift no prob, for some reasno upshifting really takes my full ability to concentrate and remind myself to loosen up and just do it

[kschilk]

Originally Posted by noobish

I am pretty good at jumping stuff now and dont really fear a lot of jumps, its cornering and being able to burn laps that kills me, need to be working out I guess......

Let the bike do the work, no need to get too physical with it...even on 4-strokes. Look at the top pros, over the years...all but a very few were slight. The real key to speed, is in knowing how to pick your lines. With the right lines, you'll expend much less energy. Really knowing your bike...being able to "feel" the bike, is essential. Learn to exploit your bike's strengths and every advantage that the track or terrain offers. Working out is a great way to train, for working out but if you want to train for riding, I say...."ride!"

[Freak]

Some really good advice and tips in here. Thanks all, I'm going to try some of them.

[lucahemi]

i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, its like i freeze up where im not even thinking to breathe or anything. . This last weekend i got a a tad better... i remembered to breathe! good luck

[Ford]

Noobish is correct, if you go nose high tap the rear brake and it will throw the front down and the opposite is for the nose going low, wring the throttle and it will lift up the nose with some body position leaning back too. It is also very important to have your suspension dialed in becuase if you have your suspension too stiff or too soft and dampening set to soft or tostiff it will either launch your take off or leave it reeling for more thus requiring you to have to fight and muscle thebike to compensate. So first setup the suspension correctly for you and the conditions you are riding, etc once that is done then you can learn to jump better and use all the secrets etc that are required to jump.
So first set your sag on the rear and then setup the suspension. Make sure you count the position of the clickers ont he front and back and if it is way out then set it to the manuals recommendation as a starting point but make sure you have it counted off either way because if you dont then it will be impossible to set correctly. Suspension is VERY IMPORTANT becuase if set properly you wont have to work too hard to jump and even ride the bike meaning less arm pump, etc but if you dont have it setup then you will have to work twice as hard to control the bike in ALL conditions.
I got this information from my mechanic ex racer who does my suspension work for me. There truly is a reason the suspensions have so many settings and options from valaves, oils in them and different weights of oil,to springs and all of the settings that can be applied.


Cheers!