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Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke)

This is a discussion on Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke) within the Motorcycle Riding Tips forum, part of the Dirt Bike - ATV - Suspension Forums category; appreciate it....

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  #21  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:46 PM
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Default Re: Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke)

appreciate it.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:58 PM
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Default Re: Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke)

once ur comin out of the corner move back on the seat to give the rear wheel a chance to hook up and send u going straight again
o and have fun while practicing that is the main bit of getting better.... if you like something and enjoy it you will naturally get better! good luck!
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke)

Also, one more important thing. When you stick your inside leg forward, make sure you keep a little bend at your knee; make sure you don't lock the joint. If you lock your knee, you can be thrown completely off the bike and/or cause a lot of damage to your knee. It's hard to get used to at first but practice it consciously and it'll help keep you safe!
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Old 04-17-2008, 01:01 AM
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Default Re: Basic Cornering (125 2-Stroke)

Topic: Starts

The most important ingredients to a good start are practice, patience, timing and anticipation. Pick a straight , short line to the first turn you feel comfortable with. Watch the starter several races prior to your start get a feel for any tendencies he/she may have that will tell you they are about to drop the gate. Watch several starts and see if most the good starts are coming from a particular area. Pick an area that is free from crooked ruts, deep dirt and rocks. Clean your start area and line yourself up straight. Think about what options you can utilize if you don't get the desired start. Be positive.



Starts are a mind game too, so don't line up next to someone who you aren't comfortable with if it can be avoided. Chances are you will be focusing on them, rather than yourself which is a recipe for disaster. Picture yourself getting the desired start. Try to stay as calm as possible. Maintain regular breathing and focus, but stay relaxed. Put all distractions out of your mind.

Check the clutch disengagement (traction) prior to your start so you have an idea how much throttle to give it coming off the line. Wait until about 5-10 seconds before the gate drops to put into gear. START IN SECOND GEAR. Trust me on this. There is only a handful of times where first gear is appropriate. Your bike has more than enough power for most applications and you will have a more controlled start. Place your full weight on the seat with your body in the neutral position on the front area of the seat. DO NOT LEAN FORWARD AT THIS TIME. Feet should be placed in front of the pegs, throttle 1/2 to 3/4 open, utilizing a re-grip or over grip.

Look at the gate next to you, to the side of your gate, or at the pin. Try to avoid looking directly ahead on your gate as your eyes pick up peripheral movement faster than straight on. Get the clutch disengaged to where it wants to go, but you maintain control. If the gate slopes downward, hold your front brake on as well. Utilize 1-2 fingers on both the brake and clutch. Using more fingers results in a loss of control and possibly a slower reaction. As the gate falls, release the brake (if you used it) and clutch simultaneously, releasing the clutch in a controlled release which may involve slipping the clutch a little to maintain good forward momentum. REMEMBER IT IS A CLUTCH FEED, NOT A DROP. Do not dump/drop it or release/snap it hard. If you do this you will have a tendency to wheelie or spin the back tire losing time. Release the clutch in a smooth, precise release. Just as you release the clutch and the bike begins to move forward, be sure that you are moving your body forward with the release of the clutch. This way you are moving with the bike, rather than being pulled along. Get your feet on the pegs as quickly as possible. DO NOT drag them behind you.

Practice a smooth, quick transition with your feet from on the ground to on the pegs, squeezing your legs or keeping them tight to the tank as you bring them onto the pegs. This will help keep the bike straight and allow for quick shifting. Power on the shifts, do not back off. Sometimes slipping a little clutch during shifts can aid the power delivery and assist in quick starts. Keep a finger on the clutch for quick fanning action if necessary. If the bike wheelies, do not back off the throttle. Pull in the clutch slightly to drop the front end without backing off the throttle. REMEMBER-THROTTLE CONTROLS SPEED, CLUTCH CONTROLS POWER DELIVERY AND SPEED !!!

Look where you want to go. Be aware of your surroundings, but don't over react to them. Brake standing, avoiding locking it up and sliding through the turn. You want to brake effectively and controlled as deeply as possible still maintaining momentum and control. For concrete, starts are very similar. The main difference is that you want to roll your butt cheeks back into the seat a little more and come off the gate without quite so much throttle as dirt, then hit it hard on the throttle as you hit the dirt. Too much throttle on the concrete you will spin the tire, wheelie and/or bog the motor.

Note- I am not a big fan of smoking the tire to warm it up on a concrete start pad. Yes, it helps clean your pad and warm up the tire, but a warmed up clutch and good throttle control will yield a better start and not toast your $100 knobby in the process. Knobby's are something that you need for the next 20 minutes, and if you just rounded them all off on the start, how effective will your cornering and braking be for the entire moto with a bald knobby.... Food for thought.
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