How To: Daddog Remove The Carburetor

[Woody_393]

Welcome! This is the step by step instructions on how to remove the carburetor, written by carburetor man FAST1 from www.yfzcentral.com. Thank you for a great write up!

1st--- make sure you are using metric allen wrenches.

I can change the needle relatively easy after all the practice I've had re-jetting. This is what I would suggest.

1- Loosen the clamp on the rubber carb boot nearest the engine cylinder. Loosen it enough so that you get a plenty of slack in the clamp. A 4mm metric allen wrench in a socket application (1/4 " or 3/8" drive) works quickly because you can use a swivel joint with a extension and loosen the clamp very quickly with a ratchet instead of fiddling with an allen wrench.

2- Loosen the clamp on the back of the carb with a phillips screw driver. Loosen with plenty of slack in the clamp.

3- Pull your throttle cable casing down a bit from the front of the machine creating plenty of slack to turn the carb without any restriction from the throttle cable.

4- Remove the seat and pull the black plastic air box connector tube away(back towards the air box) from the back of the carb with your hand while at the same time pulling the carb back (straight back, this is important) and off the front intake flange. The black air box tube connecting the air box to the carb will flex easy and allow this.

5- Then, after removing the carb from the intake manifold tube, lower the carb straight down approx. 1/2 inch so that you can twist it without binding the top of the carb and associated connectors on the frame and associated electrical clamp connectors. This procedure is important to follow very carefully so that you don't damage anything during the process of turning the carb to position the carb top near the exhaust header pipe for cap removal. Watch closely near the top of the carb and frame while turning the carb to avoid any interference and damage.

6- Remove the top two allen head bolts with a 3 mm metric allen wrench that has a very short length on one end. The short length end makes it easier to remove the allen bolts in the limited space.

7- Create some slack on the hoses on top of the carb and remove the top cap.

8- Loosen the small allen head cap bolt which covers the needle with a 4mm metric allen wrench. Be sure to remove this very cautiously and not loose the small spring underneath the small allen head bolt.

9- Use a pair of tweezers and pull the needle out very easily without any four letter words.

10- Attach the clip to the new needle or change clip locations on your current needle and insert the needle back in while at the same time pushing the throttle to wide open. This allows the needle to slide in without any potential restriction from the main jet.

11- Follow the steps 8 thru 1 back, for assembly of the carb back to the engine.

12- TAKE YOUR TIME, USE A HIGH POWER LIGHT AND THE PROPER TOOLS.

**after a few times you'll be able to switch needle positions in 5 minutes**

Also to change the main jet and/or pilot jet , work thru step 5 then:

- Loosen the drain bolt on the bottom of the carb with a 17 mm wrench or socket **after turning off the gas**.

- You can then access the jets to switch them.

- Do not touch the 4 phillips head float bowl screws.

This process, after a few practice sessions, will take a matter of a few minutes to switch jets

The zip tye can be installed after step 5 is done. You will need a very small straight blade screw driver (similar to a jewelers screw driver) to remove the stock idle mixture screw which is located in the forward small hole, seen while looking at the bottom of the float bowl cover. The mixture screw is inset into the flow bowl cover approximately 3/4 of and inch. ENSURE THAT YOU NOTE AND WATCH VERY CLOSELY THE small washer, spring and o-ring placement on the fuel mix screw to properly install them on the zip tie before installation.

Let me know if you have any questions. I've changed needles, clip positions, jets and zip tie at least 30 times. The first time is tough..then it is all down hill and a piece of cake.

Whitedog succesfully removed the throttle cable and disconnected the electric cable clips and hoses (he remembered to remember how they would go back) and he had this carburetor in his hand.

[Woody_393]

this carburetor is BLACK cause it has been painted, yours would probably be aluminum in color, because it is made of aluminum!

This is the TOP of the carb where it it says FLAT CR!



He said "I wonder what would happen if I removed this hex nut screw...



And I wonder what would happen if remove THIS hex nut screw!



Oh wow! The TOP COMES OFF!

[Woody_393]

OH NEAT! There is yet ANOTHER SCREW IN THERE!

"Lets take it out" he says.



OK! get the right HEX WRENCH!

"Turn it, turn it" he says.



When he tipped the carb, the needle fell out.

Se the NEEDLE NUT?

The NEEDLE IS THERE ALSO you can see this needle is on clip #6.

So White dog gets his new needle... ready to change it.



HERE IS A STOCK NEEDLE with the clip on #3 (THAT IS WAY TOO LEAN)



Here is a picture of BLUEDOG grinding the tip of the needle slightly so that he can

put it back into the slot with the nut,

you only have to grind the fat end if you put the clip on #6.

You have to grind it slightly because the distance from the clip to the fat end of the needle is too long for the screw to work properly.

If you put it on clip #5 you dont have to grind it down, but then you don't run as fast either..

Our gytr racing needle we had to grind it. We have it on #6.

You can file it also , it is only aluminum and you only have to file of like 1/16 inch, not quite down to the first notch, then it works fine.

It doesnt hurt the needle at all. From the clip down to the skinny tip is what counts.



Pulling off the needle clip... to move it to proper position.

#4 always is better than #3

#6 is good if you have lots of mods only.

With pipe and K&N airfilter and cam mod use #6

Without cam mod use #5.

[Woody_393]

putting needle back in...



putting in the Needle screw nut.



then put in the screws...



and the needle rejet is complete.