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  #11  
Old 10-22-2013, 11:43 AM
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you can use a tape measure. find the level you like and make a bent piece of wire to measure it with from then on. remove the springs,,colllapse the forks gently, and measure. i havent seen a suzuki manual on those,,,bbr could tell you where to start. look for "even" first.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2013, 04:24 PM
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Well guys I added 10cc of fork oil to each leg today and it still feels springy so I guess I'll have to have another shop take a look
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:40 PM
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Did you ask the guy specifically what he did ?? , if you can turn the clickers all the way soft and all the way stiff and not notice a difference , then something is not right

If he changed the seals and bushings and oil , then the bike should ride like new , question , what do you weigh ? , a RM250 stock springs should be good for a 150-180 lbs rider (this is a RM250 correct not a RMZ250F right ?) , what do you know about the bikes prior owners weight/usage/riding ability/mods done ??

Is it possible that the prior owner was a little guy and had softer springs installed ?? , is it possible the prior owner rode off road/woods and had the suspension re-valved and/or softer springs for that purpose ??

The thing is , you have not given enough info to realistically answer without everyone just guessing possible scenarios and possible problems that it could be , these things are very important to know , as how to proceed and try to resolve your issue

If there is something missing or not assembled correctly and you dont take it to a reputable suspension shop to decipher what is wrong , you could end up injuring yourself as well as damaging the suspension more and costing you even more money

If worse came to worse and the forks are trashed , you could get a set on EBay fairly cheap so you can start out with something stock and complete and un-molested

First thing i would do is get the info from the guy that replaced the seals and find what he did exactly (where are the old parts ? , he should have given them back to you , or at least offered to give them back), also what his knowledge is with suspension , does he do Re-Valves or just know how to change oil and seals ?? , find out what other riders suspension he has done and ask them (not him) how satisfied they were with his work , 7 - 10 wt oil is what would be used on a heavier street bike , a dirt bike standard is 5 wt , and some tuners even mix different weights to give a rider a specific feel , but ONLY after consulting with the rider first , so i don't know why he changed the weight without consulting you first AND going to 7 wt would make your forks even stiffer than stock not softer , so again something is wrong with either what he did or what was done prior to him tearing into it

You have not mentioned the condition of the shock , it should have been done at the same time , if the forks were in that bad of condition , then the shock would be trash and mushy as well , and NEEDS to be serviced ...period , a unbalanced bike will never handle worth a crap , so both need to be done at the same time if the forks are that bad , and is usually good practice to have both serviced (changing oil at least) at the same time

You need someone that knows what the stock valving is for that bike and check to see if it has been re-valved or not (if they know what they are doing they can tell you if the valving has been tampered with as well without tearing the valving stack apart just by looking at the shaft and nut at the end , on both forks and shock) , there are many factors here that could contribute to your symptoms , it could even be that who ever worked on it last before you purchased it , could have replaced the springs with shorter/incorrect springs and that is why they rattle when you extend the forks , they either left out the spacers (some aftermarket springs are shorter than stock because they can then fit several different bikes so they provide spacers *thick washers* to make up the difference in spring length) or simply installed incorrect length springs without comparing them to the OEM ones , there are lots of possibilities here , more info is needed and you need to find out , since this is your safety at stake here , as well as your pocket book

Last edited by JimDeertay; 10-27-2013 at 10:00 AM.
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2013, 10:39 PM
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I'd bet you that the guy blotched up the assemble of the forks! The Suzuki manuals have a VERY good section for fork servicing and I found it very easy to not only fully service my forks myself but also revalve them with a RaceTech valve. The results are outstanding.

You may not be interested in valving changes and quite frankly you don't need to change the valving.
Get the right SPRING RATE for you-check the RaceTech website for details, or even your manaul.
Start with a 5Weight oil ( to the best of my knowledge this is standard )
I bet if the slide and guide bushing were not changed they'll need to be. I like OEM.
New OEM seals and O-Rings.
Checking your fork tubes ARE NOT BENT....bent fork tubes just create a host of problems!!!!
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:04 AM
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I seriously doubt that the repair guy has the worn out parts in a collector bin, other than the trash, so he won't be returning them.

And the previous owner probably is clueless as to what was done to them or maybe even someone owned it before that, who knows.

I hate it for you but I think you got screwed out of $130

If you have the money and you just want to ride and not have to deal with doing all of this CSI crap to figure out what condition your forks are in, I would send them to RaceTech. They will know exactly what to do to get them working correctly for you.

It will be more than $130 but you will be a happy camper.

Don't feel bad, you are not the first (or last) guy to get screwed by a "so-called" Suspension Shop that doesn't have the experience or expertise to tune motocross suspension. And I have seen a LOT more than a $130 lesson for most people.
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  #16  
Old 10-28-2013, 09:49 AM
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Sounds to me like he either didn't fill the inner chambers with fluid or didn't bleed the air out of it.
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:01 AM
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Good guess and that could be part of the problem, for sure.

The forks will have to be disassembled completely and rebuilt by someone that knows what they are doing.

He seems to suspect that the forks have been modified. If it is valving, it will require someone with experience to notice. You can't eyeball a shim stack and know the size and thickness of the shims.

With all of this mystery involved and suspicions of modifications, I would send them to RaceTech or buy some on Ebay like Jim mentioned and attempt the service yourself.

Just pray that the ones from Ebay weren't messed with either!
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:07 AM
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Ok I got a service book for my bike, so I'm going to do the forks myself as I've done it a few years ago on a 2005 rm125. Just tell me this i have all setting on soft as I should and when I loosen the top fork cap all the way it will not come up unless I compress the fork . This doesn't sound rite on the 125 I just pulled the cap rite off to and l drained the old oil I can't even get the cap off my 06 rm250 without having to compress my forks as hard as I can and then it's not enough to take the cap off
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:28 AM
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There ia difference between dual chamber and single chamber forks.

If you took the cap off of the inner chamber of a dual chamber fork, you have introduced air into the system. The inner chamber is not supposed to have any air in it.

Are you sure that "you" are not the one that rebuilt them the first time.

Last edited by 351mustanger; 10-28-2013 at 11:34 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-28-2013, 12:09 PM
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I am not following you

Are you saying you are trying to remove the inner chamber from the Fork Cap Assembly ?? , or are you unscrewing the entire fork cap assembly out and it wont come out of the outer tube and the tube wont drop freely??

If you are trying to pull the entire inner chamber out (by unscrewing the large outside cap , not the 32mm inner part where your adjuster is), then once you unscrew it you should be able to just lower the outer tube easily and tip it over and drain the oil

You should be pulling out whats on top in this pic (the Cartridge)not whats in the middle of the pic where the arrow is pointed(the Inner Chamber)
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by JimDeertay; 10-28-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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