Pressing In Linkage Bearings

[B_Rad]

As some may know I am currently undergoing a complete rebuild on my 02 CR250. On my way home from work the other day, when asked by one of my work mates what I was up to that night, I mentioned that I was going to press in my new linkage bearings that I had recently purchased. This guy has been riding for a fair while and has always done what he could himself but he was amazed that I was planning to do this without a hydraulic press. I told him I was going to use my vice and a G clamp and he didn't think it was possible that it could be done properly. So whilst doing it I thought maybe although it seems a basic task to me, that someone else out there could be enlightened that this is not a job that you have to send off to the shop. So I took a few pics along the way.

Hope it helps someone out there as it really is a very simple task. Way easier than getting seized ones out anyway

[B_Rad]

Alright first make sure you have available a bench vice, some wood, grease, and a socket that is a touch on the smaller side of the outer bearing case. If possible find yourself a G clamp as well. Although not totally necessary it can help alot at one stage.

Chuck your new bearing in the grease and get it lubed up as well as where you are to be pressing the bearing into. In all bearing cases I find that too much grease is just enough. And although this shows the pressing into the frame connecting section of the linkage, it will work for all bearings though-out the linkage, and most needle bearings for that matter.


Now put some wood in your vice on either side. This is just to ensure that you don't damage the actual linkage itself. Wood has give if you slightly over tighten, yet the metal jaws of the vice are less forgiving. Now place the bearing into the linkage with the text side of the bearing facing outwards as square as possible. Sometimes it will stay there, sometimes it wont. Now SLOWLY take the pressure up and ensure that the bearing is staying square to the linkage.





Now once you are totally confident that the bearing is aligned square, start winding your vice and the bearing should start to slowly begin to press in. Told you it was easy. Take it up to the edge of the linkage. In most cases the bearings a recessed further than here so we're not done yet.

Now you have you bearing started and flush to the outer section of the linkage you need to find yourself that socket that is almost the same size as the bearings outer race/casing, but just slightly smaller so that it can press the remaining bearing in without causing an obstruction itself.


This is where I find a G clamp best. You can put the socket around the bearing and place it back into the vice but then vision is obstructed all over the place. And you really need to have the socket placed square and centred, especially if the bearing needs to recessed. With the G clamp you can see exactly whats going on and make any minor adjustments when necessary. Don't use an F clamp here as when under load they kink at an angle to lock in and that won't help you here.





Now like last time, once totally confident that the bearing and socket are square and in place, start winding away until in to the desired depth. Once happy do the other side. Some bearings may require spacers to go in between so triple check your manual before you press in the other side, but in most cases being a needle bearing you will have a sleeve that will slide in from any side once both are in.
Now before you place that sleeve in, pack both your new bearings with grease. Again, I find too much is just enough. Any excess at the end can be wiped away. Also give your new sleeve a smear too.


Now slide it in till you have it flush


Next you have to place in your dust seal so here I always wipe out all of the excess grease to make sure that the seal gets good contact on it outer edge so it can do its job properly.


Now pack up the inner section of the dust seal with grease along with the new outer collar


Pop in the new other spacer/collar and that's all there is to it. Stick it in your bike and your all set and saving yourself a few bucks to boot.


I hope that someone that didn't know they could do this themselves gets some use out of this.

[DRGSin393]

Great post, love the pics too. How tough were they to get out? I have an 03 that needs it done-havent been looking forward to it for that reason. Now if someone could post a pictorial of changing the steering head bearings, Id be all set.

[YZalltheway]

dang thats one good write up. Now all I need is to get my bike to my house to work on it.

[ossagp]

Nice pictorial!!

If you warm the linkage (I use a 1500 watt heat gun) the bearings come in and out pretty easily. If no one left me any gouges the last time, the most I generally need is a large socket to act as a jig, the new pin and the old bearing case to tap the new one in.

Clamps make great mini presses though.

Generally though, if you heat the ones I have done it is pretty much a dropin' affair.

[Mainjet2001]

B RAD….you did an excellent job.
The company I work for specializes in that very thing only for aircraft and all kinds of bearings and bushings.
You are pretty darn good at taking photos also.

Andy, if you soak that bearing in dry ice (-100) or LN2 (-320) the bearing will fall in.
Well almost. (on a 1.25 Dia.)

[Keetoman393]

Excellent job. Thanks! This is one for the knowledge base.

[crfjedi393]

Great job! It takes a lot of extra time and effort to capture the process with pictures. Thanks for doing it!

[ossagp]

Yeah Leroy, there are sprays for doing that too. I have just been treating the linkage bearings like they were any other kind of bearing going into an aluminum case since I can remember.

Whether you use any kind of press or do it the way I do, it is easier if someone before you didnt use a chisel to get the old ones out and a punch to put in the last set of new ones.

Nice pictorials like that (similar to what Faded did on carburetors) give lots of guys confidence to try something that they would have taken to a shop. That is the great thing about ATM (and even some of the lesser sights)

KNOWLEDGE BASE for this one please, it it hasnt already been done.

[B_Rad]

Originally Posted by DRGSin393

Great post, love the pics too. How tough were they to get out? I have an 03 that needs it done-haven't been looking forward to it for that reason. Now if someone could post a pictorial of changing the steering head bearings, Id be all set.

They were tough to get out, but nothing is impossible. When I removed the old dust seals and outers the needles all fell out. And the old bearing casings were completely rusted. I let them sit in penatrene for two days then tried to tap them out using a large screw-driver against the small lip from the other side but they just crumbled away. So I took it to work and welded two rods on either side of the old casing that run right through the linkage and out the other side. The heat helped break the seizure and then tapping on the rods in a makeshift jig they popped out fairly easy.
You can also just run a weld around the causing and that will pull it off the wall, but then you have to have an edge to hit, and I had already busted mine off. All the other bearings within the linkage except for the one I displayed here don't rest against a lip so you can just press them right through the other side.
I did replace my headstem bearings but I used the hydraulic press at work to fit the lower one.


And it was my pleasure to finally give something back for a change.
Cheers.................Brad