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  #11  
Old 10-14-2008, 05:16 PM
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Default Motocrosspiperepair.com

I fix dented and bent pipes all day long. I just pump up the pipe heat the dents which come out easily. High pressures and high temperatures are dangerous for sure. I've never heard of putting ice on a dent under pressure and heat. Forget Mythbusters, I will try it and get back to you.
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  #12  
Old 10-17-2008, 08:57 PM
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slide hammer works.
or drill a hole in the middle of the dent and stick something like a crow bar in there to pop the dent back
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2008, 01:05 PM
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With ANY air pressure the biggest safety issue is the plugs. The safety wire securing the plugs is paramount. If you had 45 or 80 psi and a plug came out headed in your direction it could very possibly be fatal.
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2008, 04:19 PM
2004CR250's Avatar
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nothing against doing it yourself, but when i get mine repaired, I am just going to pay $50 and have this guy do it:

Pacific Crest Pipe Repair

I am not endorsing that company though, because I have never sent one to them yet. I just have a feeling that there are people out there looking for an expert who can do it for them.
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2008, 05:26 PM
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i remember reading, years ago i think it was dirt rider mag, about a test they did with dented pipes, where some of the dents had better dyno runs then no dented pipes. If i remember correctly the dents were what were seen durring rididng, with no fabricated dents. but as in physics, nothing is free, to gain, is to loose something else.
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2008, 10:02 AM
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Default Forget About It

I've been through all that stuff, don't waste my time anymore. I have two FMF pipes for my KTM. When I smash one, I send it to a guy who is amazing, he only charges me $20. While he fixes one pipe I put the spare pipe on and keep riding. Most of the time I end up with two good pipes on hand but when one gets smashed it goes to Motocrosspiperepair com, I never have any down time using this method.
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  #17  
Old 01-02-2011, 04:01 PM
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Wink cr125r 01 help.

i need help why does my bike have no low end but when i take off and satrt to hit secondeit will get up and go?
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2011, 04:01 PM
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Wow. An 8 year old thread started by Yardpro has been resurected once again! I miss Yardpro......
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:51 PM
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Default Two stroke pipe repair

Two stroke pipe repair Gagetown "SPARKLE CITY USA" - Where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average.

Two stroke pipe repair Gagetown "SPARKLE CITY USA" - Where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average.



This link will show you how to make a cheap pipe pressurizing tool for pressurizing pipes for dent removal. It's not a secret anymore.
Over all the years people just say to pressurize your pipe but never say how to do it. They say to blow the pipe up, the carbon is hard to get off of my mustache so I did it another way. Well these pictures finally tell it all.
The rubber plugs can be found on ebay very cheap, called bungy plugs or pool plugs.
The metal clamps are simple cheap bearing separators, also found on ebay.
The small plugs (as most all do) have a hole in them, just the correct size to slide a valve stem into. If there is a hole in a plug and you don't want it there, a simple bolt and washer will plug it fine.
Also there is no need to seal the inserted valve stem, it will seal its self perfectly.
I used some 1/4 20 bolts and scrap metal to make the end stops..thats the blue things in the pictures.

What I have learned.
.A propane torch will do the job usually.
.One size bearing separator fits 99% of pipes on both ends.
.No need to modify the bearing separator.
.You may find hidden cracks in the pipe when you heat and pressurize it.
.Once your dent comes out you usually have to let it cool slowly by running the torch back and forth over (maybe for a minute) it or the dent may want to shrink back in slightly.
.Duct tape wrapping will make the plugs seal better, I have had some keep pressure for a week.
.Put the air in a little at a time until you get the knack of it.
.Check the pressure with a regular tire gage.
.On real bad pipes you will have to measure the distance between the header part of the pipe and the big part, as seen in the photo.
.If the pipe is actually bent in to the point where the measurement is off, there will be a slight ridge (if you can see the pencil mark in the photo) in the pipe.
This has to be taken out with an acetylene torch because a propane torch will not heat the entire pipe bend as it doesn't generate enough heat to make such a large surface area hot enough.
To fix an actual bend, the pipe has to be hot all around the pipe, this is a lot of heat, place a steel rod to use as a lever in the header hole and heat the pipe, pull the rod in the appropriate direction until you have the correct distance. Don't pull hard on the pipe/lever. Let the heat and pressure do the work. Again let it cool slowly or it sometimes wants to twist back.
.40-50LBS pressure will do the job on dents but it will leave some small nicks in the pipe, nicks too small to affect anything to do with performance.
.I would recommend leaving the small nicks.
.80LBS will get the small nicks out better but is not worth taking a chance on.
.I have a double regulator that I made to keep constant pressure in the pipe but found it was not needed.
.I use to clean the pipes spotless before I worked on them, doing pipes in the winter and not having them fit well into my shop sink had me doing some while still a bit grungy, it didn't make any difference, so I now I just give them a light cleaning even as much as I hate working on dirty stuff.
.As long as you have the pipe all set up this is also a good time to check and make sure that the pipe mounting brackets are strait, same with the spring hooks.
.The small end of the pipe can be stubborn when dented, bent or folded.
It's easy to over do the heat and pressure on the stinger end and ruin the whole thing (don't ask) , the easy way is to heat it and lightly tap (don't drive it in) a steel rod in the end, I started my using re-rod, heating the rod and shaping it to the right size so that is was ball-like on the end, it works well but not as well as the ball bearing I bought and welded to a rod, I have six or seven sizes, they are cheap and last forever, also they work well on four stroke header pipes.

I have been working on bikes most every day for well over 40 years and have learned a lot.
I plan on doing more posts if I figure it can help people out.
Ever wonder how pro indoor/outdoor motocross guys can run 10 and 11 pounds pressure in their tires and not get a flat ?
Want to learn how to permanently fix radiator leaks for about two bucks?
Want to clean the filthiest air filter in under a minute, and be ready to put back on the bike, and have it look like showroom new for about 10 cents ?
I see so many people waste money on air cleaner stuff.
I hope this helps someone, now that i am on the air filter I think I will make a video on the right way to do it.
Take care,
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2011, 03:32 AM
Welcome To ATM
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Last Online: 08-24-2011 07:33 PM
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BnThrDnTht View Post
Two stroke pipe repair Gagetown "SPARKLE CITY USA" - Where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average.

Two stroke pipe repair Gagetown "SPARKLE CITY USA" - Where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average.



This link will show you how to make a cheap pipe pressurizing tool for pressurizing pipes for dent removal. It's not a secret anymore.
Over all the years people just say to pressurize your pipe but never say how to do it. They say to blow the pipe up, the carbon is hard to get off of my mustache so I did it another way. Well these pictures finally tell it all.
The rubber plugs can be found on ebay very cheap, called bungy plugs or pool plugs.
The metal clamps are simple cheap bearing separators, also found on ebay.
The small plugs (as most all do) have a hole in them, just the correct size to slide a valve stem into. If there is a hole in a plug and you don't want it there, a simple bolt and washer will plug it fine.
Also there is no need to seal the inserted valve stem, it will seal its self perfectly.
I used some 1/4 20 bolts and scrap metal to make the end stops..thats the blue things in the pictures.

What I have learned.
.A propane torch will do the job usually.
.One size bearing separator fits 99% of pipes on both ends.
.No need to modify the bearing separator.
.You may find hidden cracks in the pipe when you heat and pressurize it.
.Once your dent comes out you usually have to let it cool slowly by running the torch back and forth over (maybe for a minute) it or the dent may want to shrink back in slightly.
.Duct tape wrapping will make the plugs seal better, I have had some keep pressure for a week.
.Put the air in a little at a time until you get the knack of it.
.Check the pressure with a regular tire gage.
.On real bad pipes you will have to measure the distance between the header part of the pipe and the big part, as seen in the photo.
.If the pipe is actually bent in to the point where the measurement is off, there will be a slight ridge (if you can see the pencil mark in the photo) in the pipe.
This has to be taken out with an acetylene torch because a propane torch will not heat the entire pipe bend as it doesn't generate enough heat to make such a large surface area hot enough.
To fix an actual bend, the pipe has to be hot all around the pipe, this is a lot of heat, place a steel rod to use as a lever in the header hole and heat the pipe, pull the rod in the appropriate direction until you have the correct distance. Don't pull hard on the pipe/lever. Let the heat and pressure do the work. Again let it cool slowly or it sometimes wants to twist back.
.40-50LBS pressure will do the job on dents but it will leave some small nicks in the pipe, nicks too small to affect anything to do with performance.
.I would recommend leaving the small nicks.
.80LBS will get the small nicks out better but is not worth taking a chance on.
.I have a double regulator that I made to keep constant pressure in the pipe but found it was not needed.
.I use to clean the pipes spotless before I worked on them, doing pipes in the winter and not having them fit well into my shop sink had me doing some while still a bit grungy, it didn't make any difference, so I now I just give them a light cleaning even as much as I hate working on dirty stuff.
.As long as you have the pipe all set up this is also a good time to check and make sure that the pipe mounting brackets are strait, same with the spring hooks.
.The small end of the pipe can be stubborn when dented, bent or folded.
It's easy to over do the heat and pressure on the stinger end and ruin the whole thing (don't ask) , the easy way is to heat it and lightly tap (don't drive it in) a steel rod in the end, I started my using re-rod, heating the rod and shaping it to the right size so that is was ball-like on the end, it works well but not as well as the ball bearing I bought and welded to a rod, I have six or seven sizes, they are cheap and last forever, also they work well on four stroke header pipes.

I have been working on bikes most every day for well over 40 years and have learned a lot.
I plan on doing more posts if I figure it can help people out.
Ever wonder how pro indoor/outdoor motocross guys can run 10 and 11 pounds pressure in their tires and not get a flat ?
Want to learn how to permanently fix radiator leaks for about two bucks?
Want to clean the filthiest air filter in under a minute, and be ready to put back on the bike, and have it look like showroom new for about 10 cents ?
I see so many people waste money on air cleaner stuff.
I hope this helps someone, now that i am on the air filter I think I will make a video on the right way to do it.
Take care,
Wow! one of the most informative and helpful posts I have read in a long time, well done mate Thankyou
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