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  #1  
Old 11-07-2003, 09:03 AM
napalm417's Avatar
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Default Lubing bearings

     

I've been reading that with a new bike you should grease the steering stem, swingarm and shock linkage bearings, as they really don't come with much lube from the factory.

The shop here quoted me $150 but it seems like for that much money I could buy the tools and do it myself, plus it would probably be better to know how to do it yourself anyways.

My manual doesn't say how to do this and I searched the KB and other forums but couldn't find any detailed info on how to do this, so the question is,

1. Can anybody explain how to do this, or point me to a site that has this info?
2. What tools do I need?
3. Any tips so I don't screw anything up too badly?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 11-07-2003, 09:40 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

First go buy yourself a tub of Bel-Ray Waterproof grease from you m/c shop.

To lube the axle bolts is pretty easy. Support the bike on a stand first or a 5 gallon bucket.

For the front, just loosen the axle nut and then loosen the front pinch bolts and remove the axle bolt. Grease it all up and smear grease inside the hub holes and re-assemble.

For the rear, just loosen the axle bolt. Pull out the axle bolt and smear grease all over it and inside the axle hole and re-assemble.

Your swingarm bearings and linkage should be OK for at least one year, unless you do alot of power washing. It would be a good idea to remove the swingarm bolt and really lube it up good. That suckers gets stuck and its a PITA to get out. Removing the swingarm bolt is very easy. Support the bike on a stand and remove the swingarm bolt nut and carefull drive the bolt out without messing the threads up. Better to screw the nut back on and lightly tap the nut. There are rubber seals and spacers for the swingarm bearings. Just remove the seals and metal spacer and smear extra grease on the bearings and replace the seals. Really grease up the swingarm bolt and re-install. The linkage bearings are basically the same as the swingarm bearings, but on a smaller scale.

To grease up your stem bearing. You have to remove your handle bars, the upper triple clamp, remove the stem nut and remove the assemble. Have someone help you as when you remove the final nut holding the stem on, your front fork tube assembly will drop to the floor. Its best to do this when you have your front wheel off. Its also easier to do it with the front forks off, but not necessary. Its almost impossible to totally grease the lower bearing, so I just smear grease all over it and the race. I hand pack the upper bearing and smear grease all over the race and re-assemble.

One of the most important tools to buy is a good quality torque wrench 3/8" drive with 10-100 foot pounds scale. Most tool stores has good ones for anywhere between $50-$80.00.

Your manual will tell you all the torque settings you need. The ower stem nut doesn't have much torque on it. The pinch bolts for the front axle is like 7 ft. lbs. Fork tube clamp bolts/triple clamp are like 12-14 ft. lbs. The front axle nut is like 35-40, the rear axle nut is like 50-65, the steam nut under the top clamp is slightly more than finger tight, and the upper clamp nut is like 20-25. These all very with the manufacture of the bike. The swingarm bolt is like 40-60 ft. lbs.

If you want to go buy a Clymer's repair manual on your bike. Here is a good location to purchase a manual from. You can also purschase Kawie factory repair manual from them too:
M/C Repair manuals

If you need anymore details you can email me at RICKM7331@aol.com
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:05 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by KTM250rm393
... It would be a good idea to remove the swingarm bolt and really lube it up good. That suckers gets stuck and its a PITA to get out...
rick's not kidding. save yourself a whole lot of time and trouble and get that swingarm pivot shaft sooner rather than later and get it lubed up good.

-Z

Last edited by psyklone393; 11-08-2003 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:09 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

That response sounds like kb candidate to me. Thanks Rick.

Last edited by zoohoot393; 11-07-2003 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:25 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Thanks Rick that's a great explanation, I think I'll do that this weekend.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:27 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Good luck bro!
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:29 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Hey Ken...your pm box if full.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:37 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Yes Ken,

Your mailbox is overflowing
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Old 11-07-2003, 11:41 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Oops let me go check...

Thanks again for the info Rick!
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Old 11-08-2003, 02:29 PM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

WOW, very nice rick.

Moved to the KB
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2003, 08:43 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

I lube every bearing on a new bike. Even the little ones in the brake pivot on KTM's. That way I know they're done right and that they have the BelRay waterproof stuff in them. You will pay for whatever tools you have to buy in very short order.

I go a bit further when I'm lubing wheel bearings. Get the wheel off and the spacers out. If you've never had the bearings out, you need to understand how the hub is setup. Starting from one side, there's a grease seal, a snap ring, the bearing, a long aluminum spacer that runs from bearing to bearing, the other bearing and the other seal. The spacer is usually tight and you need to move it a bit to be able to drive the bearing out.

Remove the seals, which can get trashed in the process so have some spares around. You can roll the seal lip over and get the springs out of the seal before removing them to try and salvage them. Then remove the snap ring.

I have a 2' long 1/2" soft steel rod that I got at a farm supply store. I put that into the hub far enough to contact the spacer just above the opposite side bearing. Then use it like a crowbar to push the spacer away from the opposite side bearing enough to be able to get the rod to contact the bearing. Then I whack the bearing with the rod and hammer. The spacer should move easier after that but work your way around the bearing that way until it's out. The spacer should drop right out. Flip the tire over and drive the other bearing out.

Now take a sharp knife or tiny flat screwdriver and pop the seal off from the inside race on both sides. Clean the bearing if it's really ugly and/or pack grease into it. The way I pack grease in is to put a big glob in my palm and grab the bearing with my opposite hand, index finger through the middle. Hold the bearing about 30 degrees from you flat palm and you just kind of scrape a little grease at a time off the glob and down against your palm. That forces the grease up into the bearing. You'll see it coming through from the top after a few scrapes. Keep rotating the bearing until it's all greased. I use BelRay waterproof grease, FWIW.

Put the seals back on after wiping any excess grease away. I leave as much grease in them as they'll take. This is not a high speed bearing application so you can leave them packed with no problem.

To drive them in, I start them with a hammer just tapping around the outer race until the are close to flush with the hub. Then I use a large socket and work around the outside edge to drive them home.

I know the common wisdom is that if you drive a bearing out by hammering on the inner race, you have to replace the bearing. I've been doing this for a lot of years with never a problem so I disagree with that theory.

If the bearing is rusty or feels gritty when you turn it, trash it. Bearings are pretty cheap at the local bearing houses usually. For a quick lube in between the above full service, you can pop the grease seals and the snap ring off, pop the seal up from the outside of the bearing and force some more grease in.
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Ok Jr. here is the deal. If you want to do it your self that is great, the more you know about how your bike is put together the easier it will be to keep in shape and tuned. However with that being said you also need a few words of caution before doing any project where your safety is in the essance of your mechanical ability.
(1) Have the factory manual with you at all times during the project.
(2) Make sure you read the section of the manual for the Items you will be working on, and do that twice.
(3) Make sure you have all the correct tools for the job including the parts and material you will need like grease, and just because the plumbers wrench fits does not mean it is the correct tool. This is very important because if you damage something while working on your bike, then a simple tune up can become a major repair.
(4) A camera (digital prefered) or hand written notes is handy for your first couple of times. You can take pictures of what bolt came out of which hole and in what direction. Remeber your rear shock bolts will appear simular and go in at differant directions.
(5) I can't stress this last part enough: NEVER, EVER, RUSH. Take your time and pay attention to detail. If you get frustrated or tired take a break. But don't forget to write down what you were working on and some of your thoughts so that you can remeber when you come back.

If you think you are this prepaired and you realy want to do this then respond and I will give you the step by steps.
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Old 11-14-2003, 11:11 AM
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Default Re: Lubing bearings

Well, give it to us... I'm ready.
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