which is the best chain for power to back wheel?

[Silver_Fox]

Originally Posted by Keetoman393

P.S.S. Did I ever tell you that MXrs have such cute bikes?

Way to keep it light Keeto, lol there is a huge difference when sitting in the pits at mx compared to the offroad crew who are usually a bit off center. The mx guys run clean equipment and spend way to much on the newest graphics, but you would have a hard time finding an off road bike without a white crease in the fender or a pipe without dents.

Oh sorry, forgot we were talking about chains............ just run what you like, I use a ring chain because of mud and if I need the EXTRA power that a standard chain will provide I just open the throttle a little more.

[Sgt Brown]

I just bought an X-Ring chain the other day and they failed to tell me that it didnt' have a master link and needed to be pressed? What tool do I need for this, and did they sell me the right chain? Much thanks

[Woody_393]

I bought one like that. The tool costs more then the chain and none of the local shops even had the tool

I ended up just buying a master link for that manufacturer's chain, and it's worked for the last 2 years.

[Sgt Brown]

[QUOTE=Woody_CRF]I bought one like that. The tool costs more then the chain and none of the local shops even had the tool

I ended up just buying a master link for that manufacturer's chain, and it's worked for the last 2 years.[/QUOTEI]

So, I bought the DID X-Ring chain. Just use the regular master link with no orings? I'll give it a try.

I was all excited about putting my new sprokets and chain on last night. Sure wish they would have told me about what I needed.

Thanks woody

[DPW]

Originally Posted by Sgt Brown

I just bought an X-Ring chain the other day and they failed to tell me that it didnt' have a master link and needed to be pressed? What tool do I need for this, and did they sell me the right chain? Much thanks

Motion Pro and Excel both make a chain riveting tool...

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[Jaybird]

I want to address Sarge's issue first, as he is getting ready to commit to a new set-up.
Sarge, I highly recommend that dirt bikers use clip type master links with all of their chain choices. This is because once you have mounted up the rivet link chain, it is there to stay, and we need to pull our chains for inspections and cleanings from time to time. It seems they gave you no choice in the matter and sent you a rivet link master. This would be due to two things..they either simpy sent you the rivet link because you didn't specify, or the chain you bought may not even have a clip type master link offered with it. Some high dollar ring chains are rivet link only.
As mentioned the rivet tools are very expensive and are hard to find in stock.
But, there are a couple of alternatives. One, you could maybe use a clip type master from another chain. This isn't always the best thing to do because sometimes the pins of one #520 chain may be slightly larger than the pins of another #520 chain. DO NOT USE A MASTER THAT IS NOT AN O-RING MASTER! You need to keep the chain typical.

You can also peen the rivet pins of your chain with a ballpeen hammer.
This is a very tedious operation that has to be done with the chain on the bike. You want the master to be on the rear sprocket, use a heavy block of steel or something to back up the link, and simply peen (or mushroom) the ends of the conneting pins. A very small hammer is preffered, and you need to take your time and be sure not to damage links or sprocket. Make sure you do a complete job, and no half stepping. If you do not have a full mushroom of the pins, it could fly apart later.
Make sure you grease up the master link not matter which one you use. All of the other links have grease injected into them, and the master needs it too.
You will also find it a bit tough to get the things pressed together when there are rings...but I think you will find methods here if you do a search. I use a very small c-clamp and a small socket to squeeze the link plates. (shrug)
Did I mention NOT to use a non-ring master with that chain? It would be a mistake to go with a master that is not ringed.

Some bikes come with a rivet type master link..(I think Honda 650's for one)
and you are given information that states you ALWAYS need to change out your chain to a rivet type master link. This is bunk. I recommend always changing out from a rivet type to a clip type on your first replacement if you can. Just always make sure your clips forks are pointed in the opposite direction of travel, and always make sure your clip is completely flat before mounting, and you will never have any worries with the clip master.
Sarge, if you give me the nomencalture of the chain, I can tell you if there is a clip master available for it. That would be you very best bet.

Yes, ring chains do have their place.
Folks who ride in lots of sand feel they absolutely need a ring chain. But a ring chain has no greater enemy than the sand. Sand can and will eat rings up fast if allowed. The best way to do this is to use a gooey, sticky type lube or wax that can grab the sand and hold it there so it can eat your rings away.
A dry-film type lube will not attract the dirt and sand. And can keep a ring chain alive quite well in the sand. This type of lube also makes it so that even a standard chain can survive in the sand, as it also keeps the sand from sticking to the friction areas.

As mentioned, proper adjustment of the chain drive is crutial. Most importantly the alignment of the sprockets and the tension of the chain.
Probably the most missed part of chain drive maint. is the tension of the chain. So many either misunderstand the procedure, or have been using a procedure from pals that simply is causing damage.

The tell-tale signs of a chain that is being runn too taught is the sprocket teeth becoming damaged. Sprocket teeth will start to hook when a chain that has elongated past specification (+1.5% longer than original pitch length) has been running on them.
If you see your teeth hooking in any fashion, measure your chain properly and see if it has grown past spec. If it HASN'T, and is still less than 1.5% of original pitch, then quite possibly the chain is being run too tight. And every time the shock compresses it is putting tremendous force on the equipment. This will cause your chain teeth to deform before the chain is trashed.
And as mentioned before, it will also trash other components like the wheel bearings, seals, hubs, and gears.

I have seen multiple times a person having damaged sprockets, their chain is new or within spec., and they blame the failure on junk equipment. When in fact it was the adjustment that was lacking.
When your chain is tentioned properly, it only takes about a 1/4 turn of the adjuster bolts to have it too tight. This is why a rider should have a precise method for tensioning the chain, instead of the good ol' three finger method.

When you get a bike from a shop...be it a dealer or a used place, be CERTAIN to check the chain tension before you ever ride the bike. I have seen a whole showroom floor full of new bikes that had each and every chain tensioned too tight during build. Each and every one of those bikes will cause their new owners problems right off the bat, and the root of it was the incompitent turd who put the bike together had no clue as to proper chain adjustment procedures.

I have some detailed information on chain and sprocket care at the below link:
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"God Bless the USA"! (and Lord, pay extra attention to us moto freaks...we need it!)

[paul reed]

hay Jaybird thanks for enlightening me on this subject but i`m currently running another prototype hydralic drive system (simular to shaft drive) this system provides power to both wheels as i`ve found it far better than any current chain offered and now i can also throw twice as much roost-check out the system on the new wr models and weep bro cause your expertise will soon go the way of the dinasours-hay just jokin around as i like guys like you around otherwise a wiseguy like me would have no one to argue with