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Old 07-15-2005, 01:21 PM
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Default Engine Break-In

Could someone tell me if I made any mistakes or post a link to a thread like this one I'm doing this for a bud of mine, and I got this out of my manual, with some modifactions of course, but it needs to be for all bikes in general, not just one. Now thats how you write a run-on sentence people

Note: BIP= Break-in procedure
If the rings are replaced, a new piston installed, the cylinder replaced, the crankshaft rebuilt or replaced, or new engine bearings installed, perform the following engine break-in procedure.
Before breaking-in the engine, note the following:

a. Perform the BIP on the flat ground. To prevent engine overheating, avoid riding in sand, mud or up hills.
b. DO NOT run the engine with the throttle in the same position for more than a few seconds.
c. Check the spark plug frequently during the BIP. The electrode should be dry and clean and the color of the insulation should be light to medium tan.
1. Begin BIP by riding the bike for 10 minutes using no more than 1/2 throttle. During this time, shift the transmission frequently to avoid luging the engine while avoiding high engine rmp.
2. After the first 10 minutes, turn the engine off and allow it to cool down.
3. Ride the bike again for 10 more minutes, following the suggestions in step one.
4. After the 2nd 10 minute ride, turn the engine off and allow it to cool down.
5. Next ride the bike for 10 minutes, using no more than 3/4 throttle. Again, shift the transmission frequently to avoid lugging the engine or running it at a high rpm.
6. After the third 10 minute ride, turn the engine off and allow it to cool down.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 three more times.
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Old 07-28-2005, 11:56 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

Most important thing is to make sure you don't lug it! You pretty much got everything covered in your list.
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Old 11-12-2006, 01:51 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

Buzz, I disagree with you, warm the bike up untill operating temp and pin it for 20 min, this way the rings are forced againsed the cylinder wall and the cylinder and rings will seat properly. The tolerences of today are way closer than 20 years ago when we had cast iron cylinders, I have tried this a few times after years of doing it the old way, it works, you end up with less wear and more power!!
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:44 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

once i get a new piston kit + my cylinder rehoned i'll try out this guide-line.. yeah... about 14 hrs on my new top-end and i just cracked on the gas hard and it's already lost a lot of power, just by feeling maybe 15-20%? it has almost no hit now, the power is just really smoothed out, no snap when u crack open the throttle. so once i get another $75 ill try it out!
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Old 12-20-2006, 02:01 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

you pin a new top end an tou will bur/scorch the cyinder ,and the rings-,possibly seizing it ,or breaking a new ring/piston-BAD idea-
break them in easy-
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:47 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

ive heard of so many people not breaking their bikes in properly, they just fly off on them and they wonder why their bike is seized.
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:26 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

twostroker........I agree with you. I sell 49cc atvs, and just 3 days now since this customer bought it from me, it shot craps i think. He is 230lbs ( atv max 210) and he insisted on not listening to me or obeying the manual. Either way he was riding it on some trails today, and I heard to poor motor struggling to pull. Well needless to say, it died and I think it locked up...I mean the rear tires will move but when you hand roll them they no longer move freely....its almost like its stuck in gear....either way he refused to break it in ( 5 full liters at 25:1 then ok to run full at 50:1) Now he is telling me I need to replace it with a new unit.....UGH why dont people listen?
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:12 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

What does BIP the engine mean?
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Old 04-11-2007, 11:49 AM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

Break In Procedure. 14 hours is worn for a lot of engines. Miller, I hope you learned something from the 210 lber. I also hope the manual will explain lugging, which from the sounds of what you just posted is what the fatso was doing. Lugging=worse than revving. In other words if the engine was just barely able to move him, then it doesnt sound like he was winding it excessively unless you and I speak a different language.

Rings do need a load to seat. Usually when I see a fresh engine seize it had little to do with the breakin unless it was lugged. Airleaks. Mine get to start up, run to where the fins or radiators are warm, pull away easy and make sure it has no issues with the easy to forget items. Now, if I did the crank when it was down I move easily through a shift or two, bring it back and check the flywheel torque. After that riding a motocross course is probably the best way to breakin. Off and on throttle presents the engine with the pressure needed to push the rings into the walls for seating, and you aren't generally on the throttle all that long, so it keeps it from overheating. But you have to have some cylinder pressure to force the rings into the walls for seating.

I get lots more than 14 hours on an overbored 125 and can run 100 gallons of fuel through the cr500 before it needs anymore upper end attention in the worst case.

Sorry to hear about all you guys that have to witness people butchering their bikes. Glad to know that some of you don't ride mine too.
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Old 04-11-2007, 12:32 PM
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Default Re: Engine Break-In

Originally Posted by minus16969 View Post
What does BIP the engine mean?
Break In Process -or- Break In Procedure.

Personally I follow this one: THEMXFORUM :: View topic - PROPER WAY TO BREAK-IN A TWOSTROKE
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