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  #61  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:43 PM
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What I get a chuckle out of is not the ratios or brands that are run, but the reasoning behind the decision. Tdub
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  #62  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2strkyz View Post
I use yamalube at 32:1 because it has my bike on the front of the bottle.
That's the best reason I've seen so far for choosing one oil over the others.
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  #63  
Old 11-03-2010, 01:30 PM
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Well Tryce, I got back to the 60's on the reasons. It is like the STP stickers everyone had!
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  #64  
Old 11-03-2010, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossagp View Post
It is like the STP stickers everyone had!
Right next to the Hooker Header stickers!
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  #65  
Old 05-28-2014, 12:50 PM
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When I use to ride I always used Klotz two stroke mix!
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  #66  
Old 06-30-2014, 07:58 AM
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I run amsoil interceptor at 40:1why, cuz that's what the guy I bought my RM 250 from told me to run. Actually he said amsoil dominator but all I could find was interceptor.
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  #67  
Old 06-30-2014, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrobzoom View Post
When I use to ride I always used Klotz two stroke mix!
Not much beats the smell of Klotz and race gas!
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  #68  
Old 06-30-2014, 03:48 PM
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I use Klotx Super Techniplate, 32:1 (injection pump removed), on pump 91 octane, in my air-cooled 73 Yamaha 250MX, for the simple reason that it works well in my bike. That it smells great is just icing on the cake, and brings back memories of Blendzall Gold label...

Oh yeah, what's a Power Valve...? I thought that was like unto a purple race-tuned power band?

Poor, confused

Hammer
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  #69  
Old 06-30-2014, 06:05 PM
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Ahh the debate that never ends. I personally run Klotz R50 at 32:1 in my race sleds and bikes.

---------- Post added at 05:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha2StrokeYz View Post
Wow this is insane, NONE RUNS MOTUL 800 2T???? This is the BEST 2 stroke oil ever designed. I pull my yz 125 apart at 100 hours for a top end and it's still running strong, looks new, WITH NO CARBON PERIOD! (I run anywhere from 32:1-40:1 depending on temp.)
If your bike is jetted and ridden properly you shouldn't have carbon. I run klotz in my stuff and I had 8000 miles on my trail sled before I rebuilt it " for preventative maintenance" and It was still clean.
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  #70  
Old 07-01-2014, 05:10 AM
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I run VP U4.2 (almost out of 4.2) w/BelRay H1R @ 32:1 in my YZ465 'cause I'm no midget,it's air cooled and it runs clean. When I pull the head for inspection I can wipe the dome and chamber clean with a rag. And seeing how it's 35 years old now and only on the second over piston I'd say it's a good set up.
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  #71  
Old 10-04-2014, 05:33 AM
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I am so confued on the mix ratio. On myRM 125 im running 32:1, but running to rich. so want to drop to a 42:1,or a 40:1. cant find right ounch mixture, some say 2.6 ounces, some say 3.2 ounces. I just bought a quart of Yamalube, can some please tell me the right ounce to produce a 40:1 mixture?
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  #72  
Old 10-04-2014, 08:08 AM
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I wouldn't run a 125 at 40:1. Tel me what you base "running to rich" on? Fouling plugs? Hard to start? Spooge from pipe?

If it's any of those jetting will correct it. In fact if you reduce the amount of oil without correcting the jetting for it the bike will run even richer than before. Combustion doesn't "see" oil. It only "sees" the gasoline and removing oil from the charge makes it "see" more fuel compounding your problem.

So tell us your problems in another thread and we'll see if we can help you sort them out.
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  #73  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRexRacing View Post
I wouldn't run a 125 at 40:1. Tel me what you base "running to rich" on? Fouling plugs? Hard to start? Spooge from pipe?

If it's any of those jetting will correct it. In fact if you reduce the amount of oil without correcting the jetting for it the bike will run even richer than before. Combustion doesn't "see" oil. It only "sees" the gasoline and removing oil from the charge makes it "see" more fuel compounding your problem.

So tell us your problems in another thread and we'll see if we can help you sort them out.
Agreed.
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  #74  
Old 10-19-2014, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ossagp View Post
You know if I took an engine apart that had a plated cylinder that had been built since 1990, and it DID NOT have cross hatch still visible I would really be shocked. Seeing 'hatch' in a plated cylinder really ins't much of any indicator of wear IMO. Oh, nothing really new on the oil front anymore, but of course anybody who doesn't run what I do at the mix I do must be totally confused and I feel sorry for them. LOL, oil conversations are at least entertaining, aren't they?
Andy,

The rationale behind the choices is a great source of grins and giggles, if nothing else!

Mark
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  #75  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:31 PM
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just started using belray mineral at 32:1 and its been the best I've used so far
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  #76  
Old 11-23-2014, 10:58 PM
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Run 36:1 Motul 800 Mix oil and dont look back ! People who say to run any leaner are crazy. Motul makes an excellent product
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  #77  
Old 05-31-2018, 09:57 PM
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How many of you measure your oil amount with a kitchen measuring cup? Did you know they are often very far off the mark? I would only use a measuring cup made for motorcyclists or weigh the oil (which is what I do). I use a small digital scale. I divide the amount of gasoline by the oil ratio and then multiply by .88 to get the desired oil weight, and then I fill the container till the scale shows that amount.
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  #78  
Old 06-02-2018, 07:05 AM
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Wow thanks for that walk down memory lane I re read the whole thing for old times sake. I just mix about a gallon of gas to a couple ounces of oil and I’ve never done a top end and my weedwacker runs great!
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  #79  
Old 09-12-2018, 02:05 PM
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I've discovered that the correct fuel/oil ratio of any oil is dependent on the oils viscosity at the upper cylinder temperature dependent on the max RPM. I've made a spreadsheet to calculate the fuel/oil ratio for any oil that has its viscosities made public. Check out my web page on the subject; All About 2 Stroke Engine Oils and my fuel/oil ratio calculator

Viscosity is the main way to know what ratio to use. Slightly offsetting that would be the additives that affect lubrication. But since they are expensive the manufacturers don't use much of them, depending mostly on the base oil(s).
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