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Old 05-30-2011, 01:53 PM
BleedMarshall's Avatar
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Default '06 YZ125V Wiring Harness R&R

2006 YZ125 Wiring Harness and Stator R&R

*AUTHORS NOTE*

This write up is intended for those that do not have a manual for their 2006 YZ125V and/or do not have any experience prior to owning their 2006 YZ125V.
I mentioned back about a month ago that my bike would not get spark. I traced it down to the Source Coil 1, which is actually part of the stator/generator found upon the left side (sitting position) of the bike. This stator is what is referred to within the manual as the Source Coil 1 & 2, and also the Pickup Coil. If one goes, you replace the entire stator. This is not a hard job to do and requires simple tools that most everyone has at their disposal. There is some tedious testing, but it pays off in the end. To begin, let us look at what one needs to do before a tear down, and also the tools one needs to disassemble the bike and do a proper tear down.

Always clean your bike beforehand. Get as much dirt and grime off the bike as possible. You are going to have to open up certain parts of the bike that you do not want any debris falling into. This can and will wreck your engine and then you are out far more money that you anticipated. While your bike is drying off, as you do not want water getting into certain places either, clean your work area. A clean work area is a good work area, and you need to have ample room as well. You are going to need room to store parts you remove and also have room to maneuver around the bike as you work. Once the bike is clean and dry, move it into your work area and get ready to start your diagnostics.

Now, drain all your fluids, cut the gas off at the petcock (located at the bottom of the gas tank on the clutch side, and then remove your radiator shrouds, tank, and I also remove the radiator (both halves) as well. This allows for more room to work and also will allow you to drain and flush your radiator as well.



Simply put, a 2-stroke bike is a simple yet effective machine. If your 2-stroke bike is not starting, you need only check for a few simple things and then diagnose, or troubleshoot, from there. In my case, the bike was not producing spark from the spark plug, and thus the bike would not turn over. (If your bike is not getting fuel to the plug, too much fuel, etc., this is not the thread for you to be reading. This write up is for the electrical/ignition troubleshooting only.) A few simple tests with your common multi-meter will get you to where you need to be in terms of the defective part. (For those that do not have the manual, I will include all model/year specific service limits, along with all color-coded wiring.) First we are going to check the Wiring Harness as it supplies voltage/amperes to all electrical/ignition components of the bike.





Upon inspection you will want to look for pinched wires, dirty/rusted connectors/connections, and basic wear and tear. If any of this is found to be apparent, replace your Wiring Harness. I have decided to replace mine. The new one is on the right, and the old one is on the left. Notice how several points on the old harness are crimped or pinched.



Grab your multi-meter.


If you do not have a multi-meter, get one. They are fairly priced at all hardware and home improvement stores and readily available for several uses on your bike, and within your home. A very valuable tool to have within your toolbox in my opinion.

Wiring Harness (old) Installed


The first thing to check when receiving “no spark” from your plug is to check the spark gap. (Unless doing a resistance or continuity check, you will at times need to kick the engine over to obtain a reading in most cases.)Yamaha calls for a specific tool known as a Dynamic Spark Tester (Part # YM-34487); however, you can use your multi-meter for this test if you do not have the required tool. If you have the Dynamic Spark Tester, you should see a minimum spark gap of 6.0mm (0.24in.). If you are using your multi-meter, simply place the red lead within the spark plug cap, and the black lead upon the frame or ample metal surface upon the bike to ground the meter. You should see a reading using the standard BR9EVX (NGK) plug, with a proper gap of 0.6~0.7mm (0024~0.028in.). If there is not a reading by doing this, double-check your lead connections and if improper, test again. If still no reading, move on to the next test.



Since you did not get a reading you will now want to perform a continuity check from the plug cap to the ignition coil plug upon your wiring harness to insure proper continuity. (Continuity is the performed to insure voltage is passing from one point to another.) Place your multi-meter on its ohm setting ohm, the red lead within the plug cap against the metal cap inside, and the black lead within the connector (should be a white plug) against the metal inside of it. You should see a reading of 12.46 ohm. (This is what I have upon my bike.) If you have a reading near this, your continuity to the cap is good, thus your cap is passing voltage/amperes. If your metal leads will not fit within the connector, take a metal paperclip (one without any coating) and open it up. Cut it in half and place one-half into each side of the connector. You now can place your metal lead against this to achieve a reading. It is also a good idea to check the connection/plug here as well for any dirt, rust, etc. remove or replace if any is shown as this impedes the flow of voltage/amperes.

Paperclip Trick




Spark Plug Cap Continuity




At this juncture, you will need to go over the ignition system to gain readings and to diagnose any issues. To begin, you will want to inspect and check your Engine Stop Switch located on the handlebars, clutch side. This is simple and easy to achieve. Simply unplug the switch from the wiring harness (it should be a gray plug), and place your red lead against the Black/White wire connection of the connector, and the black lead against the Black wire connection. Place your multi meter at ohm x 1. When you depress the Engine Stop Switch you should have a steady reading. You can again use the paperclip trick here with the ends bent over to help you hold the connection while depressing the switch. If the reading is continuous, without depressing the Engine Stop Switch, you will need to replace it. If the reading is not continuous while the switch is depressed, you will need to replace it as well. (Bear in mind your ability to place a constant hold on your connections to achieve a steady reading.)



If you have proper connection and a good reading, you will now move onto the Ignition Coil inspection. This is a two-part test, as you will first test the Primary Coil, and then the Secondary Coil. To test the Primary Coil, you will need to unhook the Ignition Coil from the wiring harness and place your red lead into the connector that houses the yellow wire, and the black lead into the connector that houses the black wire. Your reading should be between 0.24~0.36 ohm. If you do not get this reading, you will need to replace your Ignition Coil.



To check you Secondary coil, you will need to place your black lead from your multi-meter on the yellow wire connection of the plug you originally tested, and then place your red lead from your multi-meter within the wire leading to your plug cap. You will need to unscrew (counter clockwise) the plug cap from the wire in order to properly place your lead within the plug cap wire. Your reading here at K-ohm x 1 should be 5.7~8.5 K-ohm. If you do not get this reading, you will need to replace your Ignition Coil.



Next, up we have the Spark Plug Cap inspection. You will want your multi-meter set to K-ohm x1, and you will place your red lead at the end where the cap screws to the wire, and your black lead where the spark plug is secured. Your reading should be 4~6 K-ohm. If it is not, you will need to replace your Spark Plug Cap.



Moving right along, you are now ready to check your stator/generator, and again, this is simple. Unplug your connector from your CDI unit located at the top of your frame, (throttle side) near the steering head.



You will be conducting all of the next steps via this plug. To test your Pick-up Coil, you will now set your multi-meter to ohm x 100 and place the red lead on the connection containing the White w/ Red stripe wire, and the black lead on the connection containing the White w/ Blue stripe wire. You should see a reading of 248~372ohm. If you have a reading outside of that spec., you need to replace the stator/generator.



To check your Source Coil 1, you will now need to switch your red lead to the connection containing the Black w/ Red stripe wire, and your black lead to the connection containing the Green w/ White stripe wire. You should have a reading of 720~1,080ohm. If the reading you receive is outside of this spec., replace your stator/generator.



Now we are ready to check our Source Coil 2. Change the setting upon your multi-meter to ohm x10 and place your red lead on the connection containing the Green w/ Blue stripe wire, and your black lead on the connection containing the solid Black wire. You should have a reading of 44~66ohm. If you receive a reading outside of this spec., you will need to replace your stator/generator.



Lastly, if all areas check out and are in spec., you will want to replace the CDI itself and then double check your specs again under the same circumstances and setting on your multi-meter. You will also want to check your connections and make sure they are free of dirt, rust, etc.

I hope this helps you so far and you can use this in the future when you need to check your electrical components again. I tried to get the color-coded wires within the pictures, but I was not fully able to. I have tried to be thorough and comprehensive without being too technical, yet if you have any question, please feel free to ask and comment. If I missed anything, please inform me as well. The next installment will consist of the stator/generator removal and replacement (R&R), and again, I will do a write up including pictures for you to reference. (If you see a "?" for no apparent reason, it should have been an ohm symbol.)That installment should come within the next 14 days. Until then, keep her pinned!

Last edited by BleedMarshall; 06-02-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:01 PM
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Very nice job! I think this is valuable information for more than just YZ's (though the process will differ, the idea is the same).

very nice job and thank you for taking the time to do this.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:40 PM
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You are welcome. I did not notice that certain things did not show up until now though. Such as the ohm sybol showing as a "?".

I should also mention that my son took part in this as well as he was replacing the rear brakes on the Honda CRF230F you see in the background of some of the pics. It is my buddy's bike, and he did not have the parts handy, but my son did the teardown to insure he only needed shoes.

My stator, clutch/rotor holding tool, and flywheel puller shipped out today, so part two of this R&R is coming sooner than I thought. Stay tuned for more my friend.

Last edited by BleedMarshall; 06-01-2011 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:31 AM
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yeah I'm not seeing the Ohm sign either... No biggie, most will know what it means.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:37 PM
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I hope. maybe they will read down farther. I guess I could edit it.
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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You could or just make a note at the top of that post saying the ? are Ohm's
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:26 AM
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I did an edit.

My parts are to be here Monday as the Brown Santa does not run around here on Saturdays. *shrugs* I remember them running on Saturdays back home, but I guess different areas do not do the same things.

I do have a buddy that has his CRF230F in my shop/shed as well getting rear brakes. My son is doing that procedure, but the parts for that should be here today. I might put in another write up as well for that bike and the rear brakes. Even though it is simple, not everyone has held a wrench before. Like the old lady said when she peed in the ocean, "Every little bit helps."
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:42 PM
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Moved to the 2-stroke Knowledge Base!
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:45 PM
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Thank you. again, I am glad I could help and contribute.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:58 PM
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Well, I had the second write up of the stator R&R, but my hard drive crashed with the write up and the pics on it. I tried to recover what I could to no avail. My apologies.
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