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Old 08-15-2011, 02:58 AM
Woody_393's Avatar
Age is a state of Mind
Join Date: Dec 2002
Last Online: 10-05-2019 01:48 AM
Location: UTAH
Posts: 29,492


Oh man... that really sucks. I'm sorry to hear this
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:16 PM
BleedMarshall's Avatar
Intermediate Class
Join Date: Mar 2011
Last Online: 08-28-2012 12:40 PM
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 104

Off the top of my head.

The staor R&R is easy, if you have a flywheel puller and a clutch/rotor holding tool. I got all my parts and tools for around $160, so it was not a hard knock.

You start by removing the cover. You will see that there is a round "wheel" with a nut holding it in place. Place your clutch/rotor holding tool into the two holes. You clutch/rotor holding tool is basically a rather large pair of vice grips with the pinch ends redone. You simply set and lock it into place. This allows you to hold the wheel while you remove the nut.

With the clutch/rotor holding tool still in place, you now thread in your flywheel puller, which is a two piece tool. The piece you thread in (reverse threads) is the larger in diameter piece. Once that is hand tight, tighen more with your wrench. Now add to it the slimmer piece into that and as you tighten you will see that the wheel (rotor) is coming off slowly.

Once the rotor is off, you will want to make sure a shim/washer is removed as well. Inspect each piece and a small, half-moon shaped piece located in the shaft called a woodruff key. If all of these are in spec and look as if they are good, you now can replace the stator.

The staor is held on by three screws, however, before you remove the screws you need to make note of your alignment marks located at the top right of the stator base. This is important as you need to ensure this lines back up for your timing. You can place your shaft by hand at this point so that the bike is at TDC to ensure this as well.

Now remove the stator. If the screws are tight, you may round them out if you are not careful. What I did was to take a screw driver and fix to it a set of vice grips. As I applied turning force, but not enough to round the screw head out, I tapped the end of the screw driver with a deadblow hammer. AN impact wrench from any online store (RockyMountainATV/ K&L Impact Driver) will work as well, but I did not have one. This lossened the screws so I can remove them with ease.

Once the staor is removed you simply unplug it from the wiring harness, and reverse the steps to place the bike back in running order. It is quite simple and took me about 30 minutes from start to finish and the bike runs like a champ now.

Again, I apologize for not having the rest of the write up in proper order, but I tried to relay the info. I have from memory. Thanks for reading.
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