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More '79 restoration picturesThis is a discussion on More '79 restoration pictures within the Vintage Riding forum, part of the Specialty Riding Forums category; Here is another set of "progress" pictures from the '79
concentrating on the motor.
Magnesium clutch cover stripped, cracks and ... |
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#1
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| Here is another set of "progress" pictures from the '79 concentrating on the motor. ![]() Magnesium clutch cover stripped, cracks and pits repaired, surfaced and ready for powder. ![]() Clutch cover finished and ready to install ![]() Detail picture of inside case. Inside painted with color matched glyptal paint for improved oiling. Outside coated with Tahitian Red powder. ![]() Restored cylinder with original chrome bore ready for installation. ![]() Loaded crankcase ![]() Restored clutch pack ![]() Final leak down test. This motor maintained full 6 psi for 4 1/2 minutes. ![]() Finished and ready for installation. |
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#2
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| All hail Dogger, our new "ATM Master Restorer Advisor". Keep uop the good work..... |
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#3
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| All I can say is that you do outstanding work! I'm simply amazed at the detail that you go to. |
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#4
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| As promised, here are some more pictures. These chronical the wheels and airbox restoration. The original wheels were in pretty sad shape. The rims were bent, spokes rusted and corroded and the brake lining was worn beyond limits on the rear hub. The previous owner HAD mounted a brand new set of Kenda tires (which I still have if anyone wants them). The biggest wheel related problem was the rims. The OE DID "430" rim is GONE. I mean nobody has them anymore. A Japanese shop came to my rescue. The owner actually went to Daido and asked them to make another run of the "430" rims. They did and I now have a set of brand new 1979 DID rims! Once I had the rims, the wheels went together without a hitch. I restored every spoke, spoke nipple and washer, so the wheelsets are 100% OE. The airbox was in typical condition. Plastic scratched and marred, hardware rusted and corroded. I used a multi-step process to repair the plastic then I added the original grained texture. I used a special plastic dye to restore the OE satin black color. All the hardware was removed, stripped, polished and replated. Then everything was re- assembled using the correct pop and solid rivets. As you can see, I like to break the restoration down into component groups. This way I can concentrate all my efforts on a limited number of problems, solve them, then move to the next group. This system works best for me. Next up will be pictures of everything going back together. ![]() Brand new "1979" DID 430 rims. These are worth their weight in gold for an authentic restoration ![]() Unrestored spoke, spoke nipple and washer as removed from original wheel ![]() Spoke assembly after stripping, polishing and replating. Spoke was clear cad plated, spoke nipple and washer was cad plated with gold chromate. This is the same combination Honda used in 1979 ![]() Laced and trued front wheel ![]() Laced and trued rear wheel with restored sprocket installed ![]() Airbox plastic after hardware was removed. Typical condition. ![]() Airbox plastic after restoration ![]() Hardware removed from airbox (along with some rear shock pieces) after old plating was stripped. Parts have been polished and are ready for plating. ![]() Finished airbox, front view ![]() Finished airbox, right side |
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#5
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| Wow, these are absolutely amazing!!! I love these threads and yours are some of the best. Remind me again, what this bike is? 1979 honda 250? |
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#6
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| WOW. |
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#7
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| I have one of those , and I race it............... Great job on the resto! link to the pic... [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] Last edited by cycleryan; 05-13-2009 at 11:09 PM. |
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#8
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| Here are the pictures of my '79 going back together, ending up with what it looks like today. The pipe and silencer are finished and I will be painting and installing them this week. I will post the finished pictures of the bike next week. ![]() Frame, swingarm, shocks, ignition and triple clamps ![]() Detail shot of the cdi and coil ![]() Motor finally in the frame ![]() Detail picture of the right frame/swingarm junction ![]() Closeup of right side motor in frame ![]() Left side motor in frame and restored side panel ![]() View from above ![]() ![]() Everthing but the pipe and silencer |
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#9
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| Amazing resto man. Do you plan on riding it? Don't know that I would. |
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#10
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| Nice work.What is the product you use on the airbox?Is it duraqble enough to use on a bike that's ridden?Thanks. |
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#11
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| wow thats really good. I have a 83 RM 125 i want to restore, someday. |
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#12
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| WOW man!! Thats amazing! |
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#13
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| man, the attention to detail is simply amazing! |
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#14
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| Thanks for the kind words gents, it's really appreciated. That's a great "action" shot cycleryan. I noticed you're running a double leading shoe front brake and some 38mm forks from a later model CR. Those mods should really sweeten the ride. What did you do out back? Is there an aluminum swingarm planned for the future? Is the motor stock? I have a source for a HRC works, rebuildable aluminum silencer for the Red Rocket if you're interested. Quote:
repair and refinish deformable car and truck bumpers. It is very strong and very resiliant. Here is the link to the company where I get the supplies. They are also a good information source for all kinds of plastic repair and refinish: [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] If you are interested in doing some airbox work, let me know and I will list the products and tools I used to do the work. Quote:
Quote:
complete. Many parts are virtually non-exsistent for pre 80's bikes already, and it's only going to get worse as time goes on. I am currently restoring a 1993 Honda CR250 and believe it or not, some parts (ignition coil for instance) are already NLA. Most of the manufacturers stock parts for ten years because that's the law. Any time after that, you'll have to depend on what's left on a dealer's shelf. Honda offers to buy back unsold parts stock from their dealers for penneys on the dollar each year. Several entities have discovered what a gold mine this unsold stock is and are offering dealers two or three times more than Honda for those same parts. They then turn around and sell the high-demand, sarce parts for what ever the market will bare, and sometimes the market can bare a lot. dogger Last edited by dogger315; 05-17-2009 at 09:42 AM. |
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#15
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| I discovered something last week (regarding Suzuki parts anyway). Dealers have access to an online "parts locator". A mom and pop shop me found 2 sets of rear spokes left in the U.S. for my 82 PE that way. |
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#16
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The rear shocks are Works and they work well , Ohlins would be better , but they are $$$$. The motor , pipe and swingarm are all stock , I have a Jemco pipe , but the stocker is fine. The bike earned me the #1 plate in EVO II am last season and this season it is my backup bike to my 81 Maico 490. How much do the HRC silencers run? Thanks:Mike |
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#17
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| Sounds like some excellent mod choices and obviously they paid off, congrats on the championship. Personally, I would recommend a pair of Fox air shocks along with a Thor aluminum swingarm (lighter, stronger and longer), if/when you decide to further upgrade the rear suspension. The silencers go for $150 and can be purchased from this gentleman: [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] Here are a couple of pictures. dogger ![]() Rough prototype ![]() Finished product |
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#18
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| That silencer is sweet! I know the Fox air shocks look cool and are supposed to work ok, but I have seen them leak at a few vintage races. The Ohlins are king in Vintage these days , Works makes a good shock also. The swing arm is a good mod and is on my list. Also I hate the pain int the a$$ stock air filter , so I run a tube type clamp on in the stock air box , it is much easier to service. The Stock filter is hard to get on unless you have tiny hands......... |
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#19
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| Ohlins were great shocks back in the day as well and are still available new, unlike the Fox. Quote:
filter base and connecting tube permanently attached. You open the air box, slide the tube through the exsisting hole in the front and clamp it to your carb. You know the filter problem had to be bad if an aftermarket manufacturer came out with such a drastic fix. dogger |
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