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Frame weldedThis is a discussion on Frame welded within the General Discussion forum, part of the Dirt Bike - ATV - Suspension Forums category; Here is a picture of the bike I'm looking at.
On closer inspection, it looks like the frame was repaired, ... |
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#1
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| Here is a picture of the bike I'm looking at. On closer inspection, it looks like the frame was repaired, or just real crappy factory welds... What do you guys think? ![]() ![]() I havnt seen the bike in person yet. Thanks Jon |
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#2
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| What kind of bike is it??I know the rm85 had frame problems there and people actually got together and protested because when there little guys steped it up and got some serious air,snap!Older mx bike had these problems as well.Just ask any old timer that race mx back then,alot of guys would break frames and wheel hubs all the time.Looks bad to me and I wouldnt buy it |
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#3
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| Its an 83 RM125. |
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#4
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| Google it and see if it has been a problem before,they dont look factory to me.Like I said before, I have heard this ALOT with rm85's.I think some one launched it off a cliff and landed flat,or hit a tree,or got hit by a car on the highway when bike fell off back of truck |
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#5
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| Anything that old is bound to have fatigue problems, money fixes everything as they say ! |
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#6
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| The top weld, is a crappy factory job. The lower one was a crappy factory "glue-job" that failed but appears to have been hacked on, judgin' from the cold, dingleball-lookin' bead. A good TIG welder can fix 'er up for ya'...don't let anybody stick or MIG it! The factory welds were cold, there's little penetration. Ideally, you want no less than 80% but in a stress-prone area, I'd go 100%. Also...if heat-treating isn't feasible (which it likely won't be), ask to have it welded with 308 or better stainless filler rod....the weld will be less brittle and less prone to stress cracking. |
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#7
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| Jon.... I would not touch it with a 10 foot pole. Like Pete said, if it's bad there it's also fatigued elsewhere. It's a bad risk IMHO in less you are a fabricator with a bunch of time. |
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#8
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| 2, with that hack job you don't know what other hack repairs they've done. The only way I'd buy it is if I wanted to use it for parts... I would not ride that bike. |
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#9
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| I definately second that,the last thign you want to do is hit a whoop or root in the woods and have the front end come off. |
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#10
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| I would not ride it as is but I wouldn't hesitate to weld it back to life. I would strongly suggest tearing it down and inspecting it closely. Have it welded by someone that knows what they are doing. Scott |
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#11
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| Or just get a new frame off ebay. |
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#12
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| Quote:
i would stay away from that its just askin for truoble |
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#13
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| Thanks for the replies! I looked at the bike this afternoon and bought it for $200.00 plus he gave me afree HJC helmet! I looked at the area today and it looks fine.The weld is the original weld from when the frame was made. There are "lugs" or braces that reinforces the frame in that area, that's why it looked like a bad weld. I will clean the area up and take another few pictures tomorrow. The bike is very complete and original. |
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#14
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| Here are a few pictures of the weld area that was of concern. I stripped the bike down to the bare frame already and it cleaned up very well. I now have the chore ahead of sanding and repainting it. The bike came apart real easy. No stripped bolts, everything is there. The cylinder still has the cross hone marks from the new piston the guy put in. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by JonW; 09-07-2008 at 07:00 PM. Reason: added pictures |
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#15
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| Jon, those last pictures are different than the ones in your 1st post. I don't think you have any weld (structure) problems from your latest pictures in spite of them not looking real good. IMHO. |
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#16
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| Same bike,same frame, just cleaned up and a closer pictures. |
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#17
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#18
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| Hey Max.......... Good to hear from ya. Miss ya pal, and post some more. Send me some E-mail. #208 turn sig's |
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